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1150 RT final drive


nortonbrian

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when loaded for a trip two up and bags and top box packed I find that first gear is really tall and needs considerable clutch slip to pull away on steep inclines.

A friend loaned me his new 1200GS for a days use and i found the overall gearing just about perfect. Do I have any options of a lower ring and pinion on the RT?

DR,any words of wisdom on drive line phasing?

This site is a wonderful source of information, thanks to all.

 

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Evening nortonbrian

 

 

Sort of but not real easy. There is a GS-A/RT-P transmission with a better low gear & lower high gear but those are difficult to find & obviously a LOT of work to install.

 

A bolt in final drive for your bike is not easy to find (IF) you want to keep the ABS functional & calibrated.

 

The 850RT ring & pinion would work but that might be too aggressive 3.36 vs your 2.91.

 

The 1100RS gear set would be about perfect but that won't work with your ABS (at least not easily)

 

On the drive shaft phasing?--not a bad idea to set the phasing correctly (both shaft ends in same clocking) but it isn't that big of a deal on the BMW 1100/1150 bikes as phasing needs both front & rear U joints to run at about the same working angles to get proper input/output cancellations & the BMW U joints don't usually run at matching angles. In fact the BMW service manual doesn't even mention setting or checking the drive shaft U joint phasing.

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Get a final drive from an 1150RS or 1150RTP, same gearing ratio. It is one step slower than a regular R1150RT. The 1150RTP has the same transmission as an 1150GS Adventure. My 2002 RT had a fast first gear which was great for traffic, but not so good riding two up. Top gear or economy is too tall for riding 55mph. The RTP transmission 1st gear is slow, more control at low speed, and a clutch saver when riding two up. The RTP/GSA transmission has a lower ratio sixth gear so you can ride it 55mph. My 1150RTP is an '04 with the dual plug heads so it allegedly has more power than a single plug head. Acceleration is much better as is freeway passing ability. Oddly, both bikes get the same mpg. My 01 GS has a final drive from an 1100GS and it makes the bike. The stock final drive was so tall under 70 mph you really needed to down shift to pass. If your looking for power you can get an after market exhaust that will give you power plus increase the value of your bike. A power commander or similar performance chip is another way to get some quick power.

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Get a final drive from an 1150RS or 1150RTP, same gearing ratio. It is one step slower than a regular R1150RT.

 

Morning RTCHIEF

 

 

Are you sure on that 1150RS?

 

My book shows the 1150RS uses the 2.82 final drive which is worse than his stock 2.92.

 

The 1100RS has a better gear ratio (around 3.xx) but that uses a different ABS sensor setup.

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  • 1 month later...
Evening nortonbrian

 

 

Sort of but not real easy. There is a GS-A/RT-P transmission with a better low gear & lower high gear but those are difficult to find & obviously a LOT of work to install.

 

A bolt in final drive for your bike is not easy to find (IF) you want to keep the ABS functional & calibrated.

 

The 850RT ring & pinion would work but that might be too aggressive 3.36 vs your 2.91.

 

The 1100RS gear set would be about perfect but that won't work with your ABS (at least not easily)

 

On the drive shaft phasing?--not a bad idea to set the phasing correctly (both shaft ends in same clocking) but it isn't that big of a deal on the BMW 1100/1150 bikes as phasing needs both front & rear U joints to run at about the same working angles to get proper input/output cancellations & the BMW U joints don't usually run at matching angles. In fact the BMW service manual doesn't even mention setting or checking the drive shaft U joint phasing.

 

I came across this, a real eye opener!

https://www.facebook.com/1507529206213982/videos/1532450957055140/

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