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RT1150 Right cylinder dead


rsw931

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The right cylinder is dead unless you go to wide open throttle the it will kick in and out. My fuel supply is good and plugs are new. The bottom plug will fire on and off when it is running off the other side. I am thinking a igniter or maybe coil (not stick coil) Is #1 cylinder right or left sitting on bike. Thank you for your time.

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Morning rsw931

 

The lower plugs fire off the very same coil (lost spark) so one side's lower plug is the other side's plugs ground path. Those lower plug coils are about as robust as paper clips so seldom if ever fail (unless an RT-P with metal shielding over coil & wires)

 

The chance of BOTH upper & lower plugs not firing that cylinder is very remote.

 

The USUAL cause one side being completely dead but working partially at WOT is the R/H throttle cable at the throttle body is sitting ON TOP OF the TB adjuster furrel (where cable enters the TB cable adjuster)--(so check that, the cable needs to be DOWN INSIDE the furrel)

 

SO-- first thing is verify that BOTH SIDE throttle body cams lift off their idle stop screws at EXACTLY the same time & that both side throttle cams hit their Wide Open Stops at exactly the same time when using the twist grip.

 

#1 cylinder is always the farthest one forward.

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Thanks for your time (again) the throttle butterfly,s are in perfect time w/each side. I pulled the injector out and the fuel supply at idle was minimal and when you turned throttle you could see the fine mist spray more. The plugs are soaking wet w/gas but you can pull the plugs turn engine over and they will fire some and quit fire again quit. At idle the right cylinder pops on and off kike it wants to run but it will not kick in until you ride it and then it is on and off.I bought another set of new plugs to be sure but no difference. The last BMW I had was a darn good bike but this one is one thing after another.I do not know why it fires good sometimes and the quits.HELP

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Thanks for your time (again) the throttle butterfly,s are in perfect time w/each side. I pulled the injector out and the fuel supply at idle was minimal and when you turned throttle you could see the fine mist spray more. The plugs are soaking wet w/gas but you can pull the plugs turn engine over and they will fire some and quit fire again quit. At idle the right cylinder pops on and off kike it wants to run but it will not kick in until you ride it and then it is on and off.I bought another set of new plugs to be sure but no difference. The last BMW I had was a darn good bike but this one is one thing after another.I do not know why it fires good sometimes and the quits.

 

Evening rsw931

 

It is difficult to advise over the internet as we can't see the spark or hear the engine running.

 

From what you have said so far & with the limited info I guess my next move would be to swap the upper stick coils side to side & see if the problem moves sides with the coil or stays with the cylinder.

 

Then, next ohm out the lower spark system from plug lead to plug lead all the way through the coil (you want to see about 17K-20K from spark plug connection to spark plug connection. If not in that ball park then make sure that both side lower spark plug wires are FULLY plugged into the coil (under front of gas tank)

 

If nothing shows up in the above then run a cranking compression test & verify that the R/H spark plug wire isn't contacting (& worn though) by the right throttle body cam.

 

 

 

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Dirtrider you are a genius I pulled tank back off checked wires to coil and when I was putting tank back on I saw the right throttle cable was out of the adj. I called myself checking that before but I guess I missed it any way it is now running on both cylinders and sounds good but I have yet to ride it and see if midrange bog is gone. I really appreciate the time you spent on this if I can ever help in any way please let me know.

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Had same happen to me. Pulled plugs, injectors, and wires...then saw the cable out of its seat.

Now if I can get these injectors back from their cleaning I can find out if it cures this roaming rpm.

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Froggy,

 

You mention roaming RPM? That sounds to me like an HES getting ready to fail. That is one of the indications of a failing HES "fluctuations of RPM gauge". Maybe that is why you are having missing problems. Heat destroys the wires on the HES wire harness.

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  • 2 weeks later...
What does HES stand for

 

Morning rsw931

 

HES= Hall Effect Sensor.

 

The thingie on the front of engine that tells the fueling computer when to spark & when to inject the fuel.

 

 

  • Haha 1
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Froggy,

 

You mention roaming RPM? That sounds to me like an HES getting ready to fail. That is one of the indications of a failing HES "fluctuations of RPM gauge". Maybe that is why you are having missing problems. Heat destroys the wires on the HES wire harness.

Just saw this. I assumed when HESs went, they would shut down the motor then after it cools sometimes would restart. Never heard of them causing fluctuating idle.

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What does HES stand for

 

Morning rsw931

 

HES= Hall Effect Sensor.

 

The thingie on the front of engine that tells the fueling computer when to spark & when to inject the fuel.

 

"THE THINGIE" now that there's scienmatific :rofl:

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Fluctuation of your RPM gauge is one of the symptoms, besides total failure. Total failure seems to be the most common, the wires short and bingo off goes the ignition. I would think that breakdown of the insulation and the formation of corrosion (condensation from temp changes and or rain) in the wire would cause resistance problems, and shows up early as fluctuation before wires short and or break and cause total failure.

 

 

Edited by SAS
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  • 4 years later...

HI, Ive been reading for hours now and learned a little. The cruxt of it is, we have two hall sensors that triger fuel and spark every 180 degress of rotation. on BOTH Cylinders. If your wires from these little treasures are rotten inside or insulation failed, ignition is a prob, more so in rainy conditions.My bike has little vents in the plastic case covering the alt belt and hub that covers the hall sensors. Im assuming that one sensores output feeds fuel and spark on the" compression stroke" of number one cylinder, while feeding the number two cylinder at an incosequential time.  The other sensor feeding number two correctly while feeding number one incorrectly. My question is as the sensors are mounted at 12 oclock and 6oclock, which sensor is crucial to the gearshift side, and which is crucial to the foot brake side? I found a speck of crapp in the fork of one of my sensores, I dismissed it as of no consequense, blew it out, and noticed some white discolouration on the inside of the outer part of the sensor. The speck of crap was metalic. AS my bike has spark fuel and good compression, I suspect the fuel and spark ar being delivered 180 degress out, so maybe I replace those two hall sensores that never break. What are your thoughts?

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1 hour ago, Big Nick said:

HI, Ive been reading for hours now and learned a little. The cruxt of it is, we have two hall sensors that triger fuel and spark every 180 degress of rotation. on BOTH Cylinders. If your wires from these little treasures are rotten inside or insulation failed, ignition is a prob, more so in rainy conditions.My bike has little vents in the plastic case covering the alt belt and hub that covers the hall sensors. Im assuming that one sensores output feeds fuel and spark on the" compression stroke" of number one cylinder, while feeding the number two cylinder at an incosequential time.  The other sensor feeding number two correctly while feeding number one incorrectly. My question is as the sensors are mounted at 12 oclock and 6oclock, which sensor is crucial to the gearshift side, and which is crucial to the foot brake side? I found a speck of crapp in the fork of one of my sensores, I dismissed it as of no consequense, blew it out, and noticed some white discolouration on the inside of the outer part of the sensor. The speck of crap was metalic. AS my bike has spark fuel and good compression, I suspect the fuel and spark ar being delivered 180 degress out, so maybe I replace those two hall sensores that never break. What are your thoughts?

 

Morning Nick

 

Both sensors are critical to both sides equally  as each sensor is used exactly the same for both sides.

 

There is no independent sparking or fueling for each cylinder. The BMW 1100/1150 uses a lost spark system so BOTH SIDES spark at every piston up & squirt fuel at the very same time each stroke. (remember it is a 360° firing boxer engine so both side pistons move in & move out together)

 

Think about it: there is no camshaft sensor so the ignition & fueling system has no idea what side is at TDC compression or what side is on the exhaust stroke.  (the spark control & fuel injection control actually can't tell it is running a 2 cylinder 4 stroke engine as sees & treats it as a single cylinder 2 cycle engine) 

 

The camshaft timing is what controls what cylinder fires on which stroke not the HES. 

 

If you are having a problem with your own motorcycle's HES, or it's engine starting/running then just start a new thread on YOUR problem (so we don't hi-jack this thread)  & we will be more than happy to help you find your problem. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/19/2020 at 3:00 AM, Big Nick said:

Sorry for highjacking the thread, but I'm new and soon to be gone! As of now.

?? Upset, or have you solved your problem?

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