'02 RT drive line preventative reftresh questions

[Stan Walker]

Some preventive maintenance questions. First some background.

 

The bike is an '02 R1150RT with 134,000 miles on it. It runs great. There are no significant known problems. Splines were all lubed at the 70,000 mile mark.

 

Since I'm bonded with the bike and don't really want to upgrade I've decided it's time to refresh the drive line stuff in the hopes of avoiding any future problems for another many years.

 

So here are the areas that I plan to refresh:

 

Clutch. Still running all the original parts. I'm assuming the transmission input shaft will be OK. I plan to replace the clutch disk, diaphragm spring, the one time use bolts, and the slave cylinder. Questions:

1) Should I replace the pressure plate & housing even if they look OK?

2) Should I replace the rear engine seal even if not leaking?

 

Driveshaft Still running with the original driveshaft. Questons:

3) Go with new BMW driveshaft or aftermarket rebuildt unit (for laughs lets assume cost isn't a factor on this one)?

 

Final Drive Still original although I did open it up and replaced the crown wheel bearing seal (but not the bearing) a long time ago.

4) Replace the crown wheel bearing, seal and 'O' ring even if it doesn't have any symptoms?

5) Replace the pivot bearings even if they seem OK?

6) Replace the pinion seal (it does ooze a little oil)?

 

Fuel pump Yep, still original. While not part of the drive line I think it's time and I do have to pull the fuel tank to do all the above. The fuel lines, filter, and sock were all replaced 2 years ago. Questions:

7) Aftermarket or BMW pump (again assume that cost not a factor)?

 

Thanks in advance for any replies. Double thanks if they contain useful comments.

 

Stan

[Tri750]

To use your term "many years" meaning having and using the bike, why not do it once and not have to tear into it again? for the clutch, it's the spring, both halves of the pressure plate and the friction disc plus the small bolts.

Why not do the rear main and you'll need more bolts there too.

 

Once apart, check the trans for seeping seals and worn shafts.

 

Same logic for me on the final drive. Do the bearing, seal, o ring.

 

Pivot bearings, we replaced very few on the years I was parts manager. Maybe it's a climate thing. Maybe roads with salt? Cali is pretty easy on bikes, no rust or corrosion so I'm sure a more experinced person will give a better answer.

 

Do the fuel pump, any fuel pump and the big o ring.

 

Driveline, if you amortize the miles of use towards the cost of a new one. And the ugliness if they catastrophically fail vs. just separating at the vulcanizing area, eh.

Replace it .

 

If you like, get your best price on all the parts you need, email me what you found and where, and I might be able to be competitive .

(Meaning save you some money)

We get a decent price on factory parts.

This is on the whole enchilada, not just 4-5 things so we can make it work.

Tri750@hotmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jim Moore]

That's an interesting question. You will quickly start taking about money that equals a significant percentage of the bike's value. With that in mind I'd use the minimalist approach. the driveshaft would be my main concern. I've heard of a bunch of those failing at the 100K mile point. I'd be looking for a low-mile used unit, then considering buying new ($$$-ouch!). Lots of people have been happy with Bruno up in Canada and his driveshaft rebuilds, but I just read on advrider that someone had a problem with one.

 

I'd also do the rear pivot pins. I'm sure they're shot at that mileage.

 

I wouldn't mess with anything else, on the theory that "If it ain't broke ..." Sure, your clutch may wear out, but it's a pretty graceful failure. It will start to slip. You can fix it when you get back from your trip. Nfw I'd change anything but the disk itself. What you have is working. Keep it.

 

Slave cylinder? That's a little trickier, but still not a huge deal. Some of them fail in 20K miles. Some seem to go forever. There's nothing that says a new one will last any longer than your current one. Also, you can feel it when it goes bad. It's very distinct. The clutch engagement point moves closer to the handgrip. Buy a spare if you're worried about it. It's definitely changeable in a motel parking lot. You need a few extensions and a ball-end hex.

[dirtrider]

Morning Stan

 

Some preventive maintenance questions. First some background.

 

The bike is an '02 R1150RT with 134,000 miles on it. It runs great. There are no significant known problems. Splines were all lubed at the 70,000 mile mark.

 

Since I'm bonded with the bike and don't really want to upgrade I've decided it's time to refresh the drive line stuff in the hopes of avoiding any future problems for another many years.

 

So here are the areas that I plan to refresh:

 

Clutch. Still running all the original parts. I'm assuming the transmission input shaft will be OK. I plan to replace the clutch disk, diaphragm spring, the one time use bolts, and the slave cylinder. Questions:

 

1) Should I replace the pressure plate & housing even if they look OK?--I wouldn't if yours are OK, if you went 134K without spline failure then your present plate & housing are spinning well centered so why introduce a possible new misalignment area.

 

2) Should I replace the rear engine seal even if not leaking?-- That is a good question, I have seen a number of new replacement rear main seals leak after installation. If you are very meticulous & precise then a new seal would probably be good but a new seal opens up another leak possibility. At 134k probably more chance that your rear main bearing is worn close to the limit in the lateral direction. (this really adds to engine work)

 

Driveshaft Still running with the original driveshaft. Questons:

 

3) Go with new BMW driveshaft or aftermarket rebuildt unit (for laughs lets assume cost isn't a factor on this one)? ---Another good question-- If the shaft is not twisted then new U joints in yours is probably enough. If the rubber is degrading in the isolator then a new shaft would be the way to go.

 

Final Drive Still original although I did open it up and replaced the crown wheel bearing seal (but not the bearing) a long time ago.

 

4) Replace the crown wheel bearing, seal and 'O' ring even if it doesn't have any symptoms?---Yes, I would for sure replace the crown bearing & seal as long as the preload is PRECISELY set.

 

5) Replace the pivot bearings even if they seem OK?--- No, I would only replace if the bearings are pitted, worn or brinelled, but I would sure re-lubricate them.

 

6) Replace the pinion seal (it does ooze a little oil)?-- Maybe on this one. If you have tools or want to pay the dealer than yes. That seal is difficult at home but is doable with persistence.

 

Fuel pump Yep, still original. While not part of the drive line I think it's time and I do have to pull the fuel tank to do all the above. The fuel lines, filter, and sock were all replaced 2 years ago. Questions:

 

7) Aftermarket or BMW pump (again assume that cost not a factor)?-- On this I can't answer-- I do know the OEM fuel pumps go a good long life. I just don't have the data on aftermarket pumps on their life span (kind of a crap shoot on aftermarket pumps)

 

Thanks in advance for any replies. Double thanks if they contain useful comments.