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ABS/Warning lights on,won't flash


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Hello all. I have a 2003 R1150RT with 35,000 miles,that I got 2mos ago. Have had a 94K1100RS for five years but am at an age where I want a more upright riding position. Been riding Yamaha's from 1978 until the Flying Brick was purchased. The K bike will have to go to finance the R bike.

No issues with the 1150 until two weeks ago. It came with the BMW accessory tail light-brake light that flashes. I like to be more visible light wise in the rear so I removed it and put the LED brake-tail light I had on the K bike. After installation of the light I went and got gas the ABS/warning lights did their thing in proper order. Next morning went to go to work, all suited up turn key on, both lights on, no flashing. Turn key on and off several times no change. Put bike away. This was Monday AM, bike sits till the weekend. Do some searching seems battery voltage might be an issue. Saturday I decide to clean the battery terminals and put the charger on it. Battery is about 2 years old. Before I start I turn the key on, lights both on, no flashing. Pull cables clean all terminals and connections with scotch brite reassemble. Turn key on ABS light blinks fast for few seconds then goes out, warning light stays on as they should. Keep checking as I put the side panels back on. All is right with the world until I go for the test ride and the lights are back to being on and not flashing. When I turn the key on both lights come on, no flashing after a few seconds I can hear the pumps cycle. When I squeeze the handle bar brake lever or press the foot brake lever I hear the pump for the brakes working and both brake light come on. I did unplug the LED brake light with no change. I put the BMW approved deltran charger on, let go to storage then disconnected it, eight hours later got 13 VDC with my DMM. Starting the bike up has no effect and I have not done a drive away test to see if it changes anything. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you Gary Bausch

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No issues with the 1150 until two weeks ago. It came with the BMW accessory tail light-brake light that flashes. I like to be more visible light wise in the rear so I removed it and put the LED brake-tail light I had on the K bike. After installation of the light I went and got gas the ABS/warning lights did their thing in proper order. Next morning went to go to work, all suited up turn key on, both lights on, no flashing. Turn key on and off several times no change. Put bike away. This was Monday AM, bike sits till the weekend. Do some searching seems battery voltage might be an issue. Saturday I decide to clean the battery terminals and put the charger on it. Battery is about 2 years old. Before I start I turn the key on, lights both on, no flashing. Pull cables clean all terminals and connections with scotch brite reassemble. Turn key on ABS light blinks fast for few seconds then goes out, warning light stays on as they should. Keep checking as I put the side panels back on. All is right with the world until I go for the test ride and the lights are back to being on and not flashing. When I turn the key on both lights come on, no flashing after a few seconds I can hear the pumps cycle. When I squeeze the handle bar brake lever or press the foot brake lever I hear the pump for the brakes working and both brake light come on. I did unplug the LED brake light with no change. I put the BMW approved deltran charger on, let go to storage then disconnected it, eight hours later got 13 VDC with my DMM. Starting the bike up has no effect and I have not done a drive away test to see if it changes anything. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

 

Afternoon Gary

 

On the 1150 (I-ABS) system battery voltage very seldom effects that system as it doesn't do it's system check until after engine start (& alternator charging) with some tests during ride away. (when you read things don't confuse your I-ABS system with the older ABS-II system)

 

Go back to what you did JUST BEFORE the problem started-- that was so install the low resistance LED light.

 

Try just temporally wiring in a standard 12 volt brake light bulb (your I-ABS system monitors tail/brake light current draw)

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LED brake light bulbs as used on automobiles and motorcycles are not low resistance but high resistance. LED's designed for use on 12 volts have built in resistors to limit the current so that they will not burn out. It is often necessary to put additional resisters in parallel to these 12 LED's to lower the total circuit resistance when used as turn signals.

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Thank you for your ideas. Bike has been sitting all week no charger used. Checked battery voltage 13 VDC. Turn Key on, ABS light/warning light are both on neither are flashing, wait about a minute no change, DMM still reading 13 VDC I press the start button and voltage drops to 10 VDC while cranking, engine starts, voltage goes to 13 VDC at a stumbling idle. I slowly raise the RPM's voltage goes to 14 VDC. We are talking seconds here but the two lights are still on, no flashing. As the voltage reached the 14 VDC the ABS light starts flashing at the 1 Hz speed, while the warning light stays on, meaning one circuit no ABS. I let it run a minute or so no change in the lights and shut it off. I wait a minute or so turn key on ABS light flashes at the 4 Hz speed then the warning light goes out as is suppose to happen. I repeat this a number of times. Next step take LED light out of the circuit and install standard bulb. Just to be clear the LED light was in addition to the factory stop and tail lights not instead of. First I disconnect the LED at my splice. Key on, ABS goes to 4 Hz then warning light goes off, all is proper as I repeat this a number of times. I then hook up a trailer light with a standard 1157 bulb in it. Again this is in addition to the Bikes brake and tail lights. Key on, ABS goes 4 Hz then warning light goes out as per normal. At this point It is doing what is is supposed to. Do not know if the voltage while cranking is good or bad. If when I go back out the lights still sequence properly I will go for a ride with out the LED light connected and if everything stays good I will ride it to work this week. Next weekend I will try reconnecting the LED light and see what happens, unless of course you all think I should check something else out. Thank you all for your input and time. Gary Bausch

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The LED light in addition to the standard brake light should not be causing you any problem. I've used Lite Buddys (LED running lights in turn signal housing hooked up to tail light wires) and Hyper Lites (flashing brake light additions hooked up to brake light wires) for over 11 years and 160k miles.

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I will go for a ride with out the LED light connected and if everything stays good I will ride it to work this week.

 

Afternoon Gary

 

 

Cranking voltage looks OK -- cranking voltage has nothing to do with your ABS problem anyhow.

 

Definitely see how it works without that LED array-- That was the last thing you did before the problem showed up.

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Hi Gary. I have a 03 r1150rt. Put led tail/brake light on it, bought at local auto parts store. Probably 15k miles since install with no brake problems at all. Just curious, does your abs work ?

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If I understand the brake system correctly I believe the ABS was working. No matter how the ABS/Brake failure and general warning lights were (the both on, not flashing that started all this, ABS flashing then going off with the general light staying on even after riding) the servo motor, brake and tail light all would come on with either brake lever or pedal activated. I believe that if the ABS has a fault is gives you residual braking, which is no servo pump assist. Since I was unsure of the problem most of my testing was done at rest, so if the servo pump made a sound I considered it good. Last Sunday I took a short ride. The ABS light went out while at rest but the general warning light stayed on after drive away. I did have the power assist but did not like the general light being on so I came right back. I have no time during the week to do anything so it sat. I had the Battery tender on it all week. Yesterday turned the key on ABS flashed 4hz then 1hz and the general light went out,brake and tail lights working. Decided to check the ABS sensor gap even though I had checked them a month or so earlier after spooning new rubber on. Front was .7mm, rear was .8mm. Range being .2 -1. mm. Turn the key on to check lights and both stay on, no flash just red lights and the bike has not moved. The servo motor is making a sounds though. I turn the key back off wait a minute, turn key back on ABS light flashes 4hz, then 1hz, general light goes out. Bike has not moved. Decide to go for a real test ride see what happens. Turn key on ABS light flashes goes out leaving the General light on. I take off, general light stays on. The servo pump is working. After 5 miles of low speed 35 and below, I get to an area where I can safely get to 50 mph. I first apply the brake lever only, stops fast enough to make me ill, then back up to 50 apply the foot pedal only, stops fast fast enough to make me even more ill. I have had car sickness issues since I was a kid. To make sure I had the power assist/ABS I get back up to 50, pull the clutch in turn the bike off and try the brakes. Residual mode sucks, I definitely had power brakes and I assume ABS before. After I turned the bike back on both lights were out. Rode home to get rid of the headache with no issues. It seems the diagnostic system is having issues as the brake system seems to be working fine. Going for a ride today and will probably take it to the dealer next weekend to have them check for any codes that might listed. Thank you for all who responded and if you have any more thoughts or ideas please post. I will let you know how it comes out after I go to the dealer or if things change. During the week I leave early and get home late so I won't be able to respond until the weekend. Gary Bausch

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If I understand the brake system correctly I believe the ABS was working. No matter how the ABS/Brake failure and general warning lights were (the both on, not flashing that started all this, ABS flashing then going off with the general light staying on even after riding) the servo motor, brake and tail light all would come on with either brake lever or pedal activated. I believe that if the ABS has a fault is gives you residual braking, which is no servo pump assist.

 

Afternoon Gary

 

Don't assume that just because you have power assist (servo function) that you ALSO have ABS. ABS is a separate function from the power assist.

 

You can have power (servo) assist without active ABS function but you can't have ABS without the power servos operational.

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I'm also not sure if I could tell if only the front had power assist and the rear had residual braking since the brakes are linked. I believe I could tell if the front had residual and the rear had power assist with linked brakes.

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Dirtrider, Thank you for that clarification. In reading my Clymer and owners manuals explanation of the braking system they do not come out and just say there are two separate systems at play here.

 

So I take the bike out for a ride today with the lights working as they are supposed to: Key on ABS/general warning lights come on, the ABS light starts the 4hz then 1hz flash, the general warning light goes out as I hear the servo make a sound, I ride a few feet the ABS light goes out as is supposed to happen. Did it three times in a row over a couple hour period. I will ride to work this week and see if it stays "fixed" after doing nothing and on the weekend I will add the LED brake/tail light and see what happens. Thanks again. Gary Bausch

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Howdy. I Check my ABS function occasionally by finding a gravel parking lot. Drive in at a slow to moderate speed and hit the brakes. The ABS function will be apparent. I can't say I do this for any real diagnostic purpose, however it is fun to do.

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