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Brake/ clutch levers.


bdfbeemer

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Are there any brake /clutch lever kit available that come closer to the grip with out loss of function? The BMW adjustment doesn't come close enough to keep me from rolling off the throttle trying to get to the brakes. I want to control the action not the reach for the brakes. Plus the closer the lever comes to the grip, in the stock setup, it takes a little more more pull to actuate the brakes or clutch.

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I assume you have discovered the adjustment "wheel" on the levers?

 

This wheel will have numbers and it will allow moving the lever in or out from the grip.

 

If you have made all the adjustment you can and if it is still not what you want... you have little other options. I do not spend a to of time pouring over aftermarket catalogs but I do not recall seeing custom levers.

 

good luck.

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I must have found the factory adjustment since I stated the BMW adjustment wasn't adequate. I believe I saw an advertisement in ON mag. I have to find the latest copy.

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Are there any brake /clutch lever kit available that come closer to the grip with out loss of function? The BMW adjustment doesn't come close enough to keep me from rolling off the throttle trying to get to the brakes. I want to control the action not the reach for the brakes. Plus the closer the lever comes to the grip, in the stock setup, it takes a little more more pull to actuate the brakes or clutch.

 

Afternoon bdfbeemer

 

Sort of but you won't be able to maintain FULL FUNCTION under all conditions.

 

The short answer is-- to re-work the lever adjuster dials to use the (0) position. That will get the clutch release point & lever closer to the bars-- the downside is: you won't always get full clutch release & if you move the brake lever closer to the bar you could run out of lever travel (therefore full braking) if you get brake pad kick back or a partial brake failure.

 

BMW chose to not allow a closer lever adjustment for a reason. You can defeat that but it can come with a dark side.

 

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Are there any brake /clutch lever kit available that come closer to the grip with out loss of function? The BMW adjustment doesn't come close enough to keep me from rolling off the throttle trying to get to the brakes. I want to control the action not the reach for the brakes. Plus the closer the lever comes to the grip, in the stock setup, it takes a little more more pull to actuate the brakes or clutch.

 

Afternoon bdfbeemer

 

Sort of but you won't be able to maintain FULL FUNCTION under all conditions.

 

The short answer is-- to re-work the lever adjuster dials to use the (0) position. That will get the clutch release point & lever closer to the bars-- the downside is: you won't always get full clutch release & if you move the brake lever closer to the bar you could run out of lever travel (therefore full braking) if you get brake pad kick back or a partial brake failure.

 

BMW chose to not allow a closer lever adjustment for a reason. You can defeat that but it can come with a dark side.

Maybe I will have to correct a bad habit. A mental-muscular fix vs a mechanical fix. I nay try tilting the brake assembly up.
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I have found if I am using two fingers on the clutch and I try to start the bike it will not crank. I have to remove all my fingers and allow the clutch lever to contact the grip. I guess that is full disengagement even though the working point of the clutch is at the almost fully released position.

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You probably already know this and seeing I wear a 3x glove I'm surprised to hear this, but the levers are meant to operated with your finger tips. It gives more feel and more room for your fingers to articulate when you need blip the throttle.

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I have found if I am using two fingers on the clutch and I try to start the bike it will not crank. I have to remove all my fingers and allow the clutch lever to contact the grip. I guess that is full disengagement even though the working point of the clutch is at the almost fully released position.

 

This sounds like it might be a clutch switch issue - I assume you are saying that if you do not have the lever pulled to the grip, the starter will not even try to crank when you push the button - correct?

 

Do you have any trouble SHIFTING without pulling the lever all the way to the grip?

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I have found if I am using two fingers on the clutch and I try to start the bike it will not crank. I have to remove all my fingers and allow the clutch lever to contact the grip. I guess that is full disengagement even though the working point of the clutch is at the almost fully released position.

 

This sounds like it might be a clutch switch issue - I assume you are saying that if you do not have the lever pulled to the grip, the starter will not even try to crank when you push the button - correct?

 

Do you have any trouble SHIFTING without pulling the lever all the way to the grip?

 

Every watercooled BMW I've ridden is the same way. The friction zone is almost at the end of travel but you have to have be fully engaged to crank the bike.

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You probably already know this and seeing I wear a 3x glove I'm surprised to hear this, but the levers are meant to operated with your finger tips. It gives more feel and more room for your fingers to articulate when you need blip the throttle.

Clutch isn't a problem, just the brake. I can live with the clutch.

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now I am really confused...

 

"Every watercooled BMW I've ridden is the same way. The friction zone is almost at the end of travel but you have to have be fully engaged to crank the bike."

 

All my BMW's going back to those of the 70's will operate and start with the clutch pulled-in or left completely alone (thus disengaged).

 

For what it is worth- I just went to the garage and my 2014 water-cooled starts with the clutch in any position- (lever pulled-in or left untouched- all the same)...

 

But, and its a big butt... it will not turn over with the bike in gear unless the lever is pulled in/disengaged.

 

Do you start your bike with the bike in gear?

 

 

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I meant disengaged or pulled in. Yes,if it stalls while at a stop light, I still don't have the hill stop mastered, I quickly restart. I am not going to take the time to find N. Plus I start it in gear quite a lot. Don't start an oil thread about how to start a bike. By water cooled I was talking about the WC 1200 motor.The hydraulic clutch has a very small friction zone near full management. Since you have a 2014 I am surprised you haven't figured that out.

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I meant disengaged or pulled in. Yes,if it stalls while at a stop light, I still don't have the hill stop mastered, I quickly restart. I am not going to take the time to find N. Plus I start it in gear quite a lot. Don't start an oil thread about how to start a bike. By water cooled I was talking about the WC 1200 motor.The hydraulic clutch has a very small friction zone near full management. Since you have a 2014 I am surprised you haven't figured that out.

 

Was there even MORE sass before you edited? Ouch.

 

 

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BD...I use the hillstop a lot. You said you don't have it mastered yet. I'll tell you what I do which helped. The books says just start letting the clutch out and it will slowly disengage...it does but kind of on a slow progressive schedule and it feels awkward. What I do is just pull the front brake in all the way again when I am ready to go. It gives full instant relief and you can use your front brake as normal. Hope that helps make it smoother for you. Work for me.

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My watercooled BMW is sassy.

 

But it also starts on hills.

:Cool:

 

So you have the hill stop feature?

 

Yep.

Size 13.

 

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My watercooled BMW is sassy.

 

But it also starts on hills.

:Cool:

 

So you have the hill stop feature?

 

Yep.

Size 13.

 

That explains everything :rofl:

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