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GD valve cover gaskets!


RPG

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Spent the weekend doing valve adjustments on the '04RT. Put everything back together, start it up, let it idle for a few moments, runs fine, no leaks.

 

Ride to work this morning, get there and look down to see both boots sprayed with oil. :(

 

The last time this happened, it was a failed Interior Gasket (the round one). It appears both interior gaskets are leaking (oil around each spark plug cover as well as the lower valve cover bolts on each side.

 

What's the trick to putting those on to prevent this and also, one of the eight rubber bushings (the inside bushing on the valve cover bolt) looked as thought it walked out of its recess so I pressed it back in. But it seems like an overly complicated setup.

 

Exactly how do those get bushings installed? All eight of mine appear to be pressed in on the inside of the valve cover. But if that's the case, then how are they replaced and installed over the valve cover bolts?

 

thanks,

 

RPG

 

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When installing the interior gasket make sure you install the valve cover in one motion only. Do not start to install it and pull the valve cover back a little and start over. When you do that the gasket will come off of the cover and you will then get pinched and cut.

 

For the bolt seal. You can buy just the seal and install them on the bolt. It's a little difficult but it can be done. I use a little oil to help it slide over the hump on the bolt. After installing the seal on the bolt just put it through the valve cover and install the valve cover. That will pull the seal through the hole in the valve cover.

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thanks for the reply. good advice on the interior gasket, and I try and do that but it seems to be a crapshoot to get it right.

 

For the bolt seals, its a little confusing in that it appears that the seals are pushed through the holes a bit. Its not real clear from looking at the removed cover but I understand you're saying that the seals are installed onto the bolt first and then the bolt is inserted into the valve cover?

 

thanks,

 

RPG

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Yes, the bolt seals are installed on the bolt first. After installing them on the bolt just insert them through the cover and install the cover on the cylinder. While tightening down the cover it will pull the seal through the cover.

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all eight of the seals on my valve covers appear to be protruding through the valve cover slightly, which is what's throwing me.

 

I called a buddy in the area where I work, whose garage I can access. Don't want to chance my 60 mile ride home without addressing it.

 

thanks,

 

RPG

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Hi RPG, as you probably know, those gaskets (or bushes / Top hat seals / half bobbin - whatever you would like to call them)are profiled such that they do pass through the rocker cover. They are prevented from splaying by the chrome cupped washer on the outer surface.

The advice on fitting them is good. Warm them and coat the bores of the and the shaft of the bolt with silicone lubricant or something like Hellerine oil.

 

However, I have never had one fail. I have seen the central 'donut' seal leak - mainly due to damage from accidental mis-alignment on fitting.

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thanks Andy. I rode to my buddy's house to repair. Got the covers off and sure enough, both donut gaskets were leaking. (I always care a couple spares), so installed those.

 

I now understand the valve cover screw seals better. My poor eyesight had me thinking that there was a rubber grommet on the outside of the cover and a smaller grommet that fits in the holes that the bolts pass through.

 

I now see that it's one grommet with a raised head that passes through the holes.

 

Arrived home, 50 miles later, no leaks. :)

 

On a good note, I did figure out how to remove both valve cover protectors without removing both Tupperware panels. :)

 

thanks,

 

RPG

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On a good note, I did figure out how to remove both valve cover protectors without removing both Tupperware panels. :)

 

Please tell us how you do that. I'd really like to know since I recently installed valve cover guards and now find it a pain in the butt to do a valve adjustment.

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1. Remove belly pan with factory toolkit allen wrench

2. Remove right side black plastic thingy with factory toolkit allen wrench for access to right side throttle body. (Right side has an allen screw, left side doesn't, unless I'm blind)

3. Use factory toolkit Torx combo wrench with a needle nose vise grip to get the two Torx bits out with access through the belly pan area.

4. Use factory toolkit 10mm wrench for the 10mm nut.

5. Repeat for the left side.

 

NOTE: The right side rear 10mm bolt is tighter against the opening on the fairing so removing the access port is essential. Not sure why the left access port isn't removable, but the rear 10mm bolt is more accessible on that side due to the left cylinder being slightly forward.

 

It worked for me. In the future, I'm keeping a 3/8" drive with an extension and the correct 3/8" Torx bit in the toolkit.

And I always have a pair of needle nose vise grips on me. :)

 

Biggest sense of accomplishment is realizing no more removing both panels to do a valve check/adjustment.

 

RPG

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Here's the thing for me. I think the TB balance is much more important and needs much more regular maintenance than the valve adjustment. My valves hardly ever go out of adjustment. So, to that end, the plastic has to come off anyway.

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Both my valves and TB's hardly ever go out of adjustment. in 77k,I think I've had no more than .001" adjustment waiver on a couple of the valves. The TB's are always spot on.

 

Now, the Dellorto's on my R90s..........

 

RPG

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