roger 04 rt Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Very different plug color suggests an imbalance. Unfortunately it's not certain that your injectors are unbalanced but you can only rule that out by having them tested. The fact that your bike runs better cold points to that possibility. Link to comment
JamesW Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Hmmmmm..I never thought of that but I think you're correct when you discussed how running rich (lean best power = 12.9:1) would have the effect of virtually eliminating surging. It also produces phenomenal power output that is most evident in a high speed throttle roll on in 6th gear. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Something just clicked in this little brain of mine. When replacing the plugs the 1st time to correct this problem (only 3000 miles on them) I noticed the r/s had a little bit of white residue, the left was fine. To me white means lean burn, I just assumed it was due to cpu adjusting one side more than the other. Maybe r/s injector is not spraying as much as left. Or I'm pulling at straws in a very large hay bale. Morning Froggy That is somewhat normal on the BMW fuel injected boxer, both of my 1200's usually have the same R/H side whiter than the left. The only way to get a good usable plug reading is to run the bike out under load on the hiway for about 50 miles, then kick the trans into neutral, shut the key off & coast to a stop. Then allow engine to cool & remove plugs. What normally happens in the bike is placed on the side stand (even for a short time) after each ride so some oil remaining in the L/H side cylinder runs past the piston rings & dirties the combustion at each start therefore darkening the L/H side plug more than the R/H side plug. Link to comment
Froggy Posted November 28, 2015 Author Share Posted November 28, 2015 OK fine dirtrider, burst my bubble, I thought I had an idea going. Turns out it was just gas Anybody else here feel that James REALLY likes the power in his bike now . Link to comment
Froggy Posted November 28, 2015 Author Share Posted November 28, 2015 Removed and marked inj.right and left and will be shipping out Mon.to RC. Here's hoping... Link to comment
Froggy Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 Injectors just showed up, they must have shipped via moped. I sent them out 11/30/15 @ three o'clock and they show up today just in time for rain and cold...yeehaa. Hopefully install Tues and take quick ride, until then here are the old and new specs. I did Mark them left and right but they did not state which was which on the specs...just 1 and 2. Old #s. #1. 302.0 fair #2. 287.0 dripping New #s. #1. 321.0 excellent #2. 319.0 excellent That #2 dripping can definitely cause varying idle but not to the extent I had, hopefully the large discrepancy between the two inj.are the problem. Stay tuned Bat fans. Link to comment
Froggy Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 Well I have no more love for this bike...and a lot less money. Time to start looking...maybe an 04 so I can worry about stick coils. Not much left to replace...motronic, wiring harness. Uhhhg Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 Evening Froggy That bike CAN BE REPAIRED, you have done a lot but for some reason something must have been overlooked. Maybe something simple or maybe something exotic-- years ago I worked on an early 1150 that gave me fits (before GS-911 was available) & after going through about everything I could test or swap it still ran like crap at part throttle. I borrowed a different Motronic & it then ran good--So I took the old Motronic apart, turned out to be a spider had plugged the internal barometric sensor (that one I will remember for about ever) We need to start over on this problem if you really want to get it running correctly. So-- can you give us a short recap on what it is doing & when? Then (if possible) list all you have done, swapped, replaced, or adjusted? Probably should start new thread on this as the existing thread has wandered all over the map. Link to comment
Froggy Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 I'm spending money and he's eating popcorn Link to comment
Froggy Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Interesting that when you first got the bike the code plug was disonnected. I assume the pink code plug jumpers are intact? Your compression test was OK? Did you ever do the leak down test? Any chance the valve timing could be off? I assume the bike never has run properly or did I miss something in the beginning? Odd about that code plug not being used. Remind me never to buy one of these bikes used, just kidding. Well, maybe not. Bike ran fine until several months ago, well after me repairing the trans splines. Splines shreaded fall of last year. My mech installed New shaft and seals, I installed spacer on plate to get full coverage of splines then I reinstalled trans. Bike ran fine with no on-off power. When I say on-off power I do NOT mean surging, this bike has surged before and when that happens I balance the tb and do valve adjust which cures surge. No, it will feel like someone is applying the brakes firmly...not a pleasant feeling, much, much worse than surging. It actually irritates my back due to the rocking back and forth of my body. Did not use gauges but pulled off quick disconnects and hit starter for long period and got large amounts of fuel, also looked at spray patterns of injectors and they looked even. But at age of bike I went into tank anyway and replaced all interior lines and sock. Also moved filter outside of tank to where abs used to be. It does this... Link to comment
Froggy Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Sorry about running different from original, it was half hour ride to Dave's. We waited 20 min. in 40 deg. weather, gave up at one bar and started it. In the last three months I have done... Throttle body sync twice Adjust valves twice Spark plugs Spark plug wires Coil All fuel lines internal and external New fuel filter moved outside of tank 02 sensor All in that order and checking wiring thruout repairs. I have felt surging on this bike before. When I bought it 5 years ago it would not idle evenly and surged t constant throttle. Prior owner never did any work on it I am assuming. I tuned it up, adjusted valves and throttle bodies and she ran nice and smooth. What its doing now is extreme, when 1st started there is no bucking (when cold), but when warmed up at ANY constant throttle the bike act as if the brakes are applied indiscriminately. The only time it does not act this way is if I crank on throttle, in 1st and second gear I can lift the front wheel without slipping the clutch while the bike is under way so she definitely has power when you twist the throttle. I would think if it were the HES I would get back firing thru the muffler when it's eratic...I have no backfiring at all, even whining it out then suddenly closing the throttle. As for tps, doesn't it show up on the gs911 graph? Again, I'm at a loss. I got out of mechanics right when cpu`s started showing up in kick panels (really? the most common place for a water leak in a car- let's put the brains there...dumb) I have done this... and now had injectors cleaned by RC Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Sorry about running different from original, it was half hour ride to Dave's. We waited 20 min. in 40 deg. weather, gave up at one bar and started it. In the last three months I have done... Throttle body sync twice Adjust valves twice Spark plugs Spark plug wires Coil All fuel lines internal and external New fuel filter moved outside of tank 02 sensor All in that order and checking wiring thruout repairs. I have felt surging on this bike before. When I bought it 5 years ago it would not idle evenly and surged t constant throttle. Prior owner never did any work on it I am assuming. I tuned it up, adjusted valves and throttle bodies and she ran nice and smooth. What its doing now is extreme, when 1st started there is no bucking (when cold), but when warmed up at ANY constant throttle the bike act as if the brakes are applied indiscriminately. The only time it does not act this way is if I crank on throttle, in 1st and second gear I can lift the front wheel without slipping the clutch while the bike is under way so she definitely has power when you twist the throttle. I would think if it were the HES I would get back firing thru the muffler when it's eratic...I have no backfiring at all, even whining it out then suddenly closing the throttle. As for tps, doesn't it show up on the gs911 graph? Again, I'm at a loss. I got out of mechanics right when cpu`s started showing up in kick panels (really? the most common place for a water leak in a car- let's put the brains there...dumb) I have done this... and now had injectors cleaned by RC Morning Froggy This thread is getting very l-o-n-g with no apparent running improvement so it is difficult to keep track of what was done on what page or when. I see a few things in your above list that should be gone back over or addressed but this thread has run it's course & is getting too darn complex to keep in front of. Please start a NEW thread with the copied list (in red) in the first query. If you want you can also include a reference to this thread so we can go back & research it if necessary. As the (new) thread progresses we can link back to your GS-911 data if needed. Title the new thread with your main complaint on how it runs or how it acts. We really need to go back over a few things & keep them in order. Link to comment
roger 04 rt Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Froggy has solved a couple real problems along the way: a very weak O2 sensor and likely very imbalanced injectors. The idle at 3000 rpm according to data I've seen is much better. Unfortunately, what he describes as on/off power has not yet been resolved. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Froggy has solved a couple real problems along the way: a very weak O2 sensor and likely very imbalanced injectors. The idle at 3000 rpm according to data I've seen is much better. Unfortunately, what he describes as on/off power has not yet been resolved. Morning Roger That is one of the reasons that I would like to see a clean-slate restart on his current issues with a fresh thread. Link to comment
roger 04 rt Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Afternoon DR, Makes sense, each time we approach this there is 9 pages to read through. A clean start would be good. This problem can be solved. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 18, 2015 Share Posted December 18, 2015 Afternoon DR, Makes sense, each time we approach this there is 9 pages to read through. A clean start would be good. This problem can be solved. Definitely! Link to comment
Froggy Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Yep sure can...I'm thinking large hammer or sawzall. Sorry but have been under the weather, and still am. Have not been able to take off work since I am currently the only maintenance guy at the Assisted Living facility. Now have 3 days off and plan to load up on drugs (legal), and sleep. I will start a new thread but will have to re-type everything. Do not have the talents of you`all in transferring from one thread to another...plus a two finger typist. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.