Fuel Pump Plate Gasket Trick????????

[Will46r]

Is there some trick to worming that stupid gasket into place???? Trying to mount a working fuel pump assembly onto my 02 R1150rt and that stupid o-ring keeps falling into the hole. Arrrgggghhhhhh

 

Thanks in advance lol

[Rawed]

I always have a spare on hand when pulling the pump or the filler assembly. Sometimes the o Ring that was removed swells when it gets free and is almost impossible to refit. I had one that returned to its original size after a few days on the workbench. I don't know if they swell from the fuel contact or fumes but it did recover. It's now my spare.

FWIW

[Will46r]

Thanks! got it in, wasn't using the right mixture of profanity.

[Hammer610]

I suggest using some heavy grease on the o-ring to hold it in place. But IMHO I would strongly advise against reusing an o-ring. They do swell crack and harden with age and exposure to fuel and its additives.

 

Regards,

Chris

[Andre1150]

+1 all that time and effort to put the tank back on, the fairings back on, reconnecting fuel lines, etc, and all that over a $2.00 o-ring from beemerboneyard.

 

it's a 10 year old police bike, put new o-ring on it and re-use that one the next time you're in there (maybe to relocate the damn filter outside the bike)

 

-Firekit

[Will46r]

Oh I did use a new O-ring from maxbmw.

[SAS]

Fuel Lube or EZ Turn works for me. Very sticky and is impurvious to fuel.

[foundationapps]

This might get some heat from a few, but here's what I've done on the fuel filter / gasket issue. When a new one isn't available.

 

First, put the filter on the outside of the gas tank. Use a U shaped hose rated for inside fuel saturation to close the loop between the tubes on the hardware in the tank.

 

Identify the outbound fuel line and cut that fuel hose in half just above the front end of the throttle body. Remove about 1.4" of that fuel line completely.

 

Clamp in (using correct high pressure fuel line clamps) the new filter just to the rear of the right cylinder. Sounds odd, but there really isn't much heat there and all components are rated for more heat than what floats around back there. (about 160 degrees max using a laser thermometer under the worst conditions I've ridden in).

 

Future filter replacements are done outside the tank. To clamp the line, get a couple of heavy duty hemostats to clamp off the fuel flow.

 

No disturbing an O-ring unless you have a pump issue.

 

Easy to change filter, which is a good motivation for replacing the dang things. Seriously, you have to psych yourself up for doing a conventional fuel filter replacement on the oilheads.

 

Also, I've used Permatex Make-a-gasket as it dries to an easily removed seal that completely seals any defective O-ring and is easy to work with (wear nitrile gloves).

[mneblett]

This gets recommended from time-to-time, but I'm not keen on having a 50 psi system with a thin metal casing filter body outside of the tank.

 

Filter splitting is very rare, but I'm not putting a component that is designed to be within a tank (where its rupture is annoying, not a potential high-pressure fire-feeder) outside where it can rub on other things or be struck by a foreign object (yes, near the throttle body is generally well protected -- except that it's a pretty straight shot from the front of the bike back to that area; if bug guts can make it there, other small, hard objects can, too).

 

Given how rarely tank access is required, how infrequent filter replacement is needed, and the fact moving the filter eliminates periodic entry into the tank to inspect the pump, sock and other interior hoses while the filter is being replaced, I've never understood why the few minutes saved are worth the potential problems associated with outside-the-tank filters.

 

Flame away, outie-lovers!

[foundationapps]

No flame, damn good points against outside the tank mounting. I just hate opening it so much. Behind the right jug, where I mount my filter, direct impacts would have to make their way through the right cylinder and have enough retained energy to damage the filter housing enough to force failure. Bugs and lightweight particulate matter, maybe here and there. High energy projectiles, not likely.

[dirtrider]

Evening Mark

 

I have to agree with you.

 

Adding to what you mentioned-- that metal fuel filter is a BIG fuel heater when mounted outside the tank. It picks up all that under fairing engine heat & transfers it directly to the fuel where most of it returns back into the fuel tank.

 

The other thing (you mentioned it) is by having the filter outside the tank then the pump intake sock never gets looked at (those degrade & plug more often than the filter)

 

If clean fuel is used then the fuel filter will last 100,000 miles. If dirty fuel is put in the tank then the intake sock will plug up along with the filter so the tank will have to come off anyhow to clean/replace the intake sock.

 

If the bike will run out to top speed (& sustain it) then the filter isn't plugged (personally I do a fuel filter test quite frequently)

 

 

[Andre1150]

I've had two u hoses split, and I drive well over 16 to 20k per year and in dusty dry southern USA conditions so it just made sense to relocate the filter outside and use one that's made for high pressure... ymmv.