danevans Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I will be attempting to put on new brake lines on my 2002 R1150RT. There is a device in place of a normal Banjo bolt on the upper right side of the frame.This appears to have a grub screw in it. It does not look like the clutch unit as it is much shorter and takes a 17MM wrench.My questions are can I treat it as a normal Banjo fitting? Will it need heat to remove? This particular fitting is not mentioned in any of the brake bleed tutorials that I have seen. My bike does not have the fill device on the brake caliper. I would post a picture but I don't know how yet. Link to comment
Glenn Reed Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 I would post a picture but I don't know how yet. I can't help with your brake bleeding question , but you might want to check out This thread for assistance on picture posting. Best of luck in getting your situation all figured out! Link to comment
ltljohn Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 That sounds like the fitting where the front brake line goes in to the hard line to the ABS module. It should come out without trouble. There should be another fitting in the area that goes to the front calipers. See This thread for bleeding assistance after installing the new lines. Does it look like this Link to comment
Stan Walker Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 There is a device in place of a normal Banjo bolt on the upper right side of the frame. Are you referring to the place where the flex lines are attached to solid tubing (up near the front shock)? If so only the flex lines are replaced and no heat is required. Darn, 3 minutes too slow! Stan Link to comment
waynerd Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 I am in the middle of this job on my bike (Speiglers also). I just finished the front and have that unique 17mm hex head banjo bolt in same location as you (junction for the flex line coming from the handlebar master cylinder). As others have noted, no loctite - removes just as easily as the other button head banjo bolts. Link to comment
roger 04 rt Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Ditto to Waynerd's reply. I believe it is there so that the front brake lever can be bled prior to bleeding the abs control circuit but I haven't seen a description of it being used for that purpose. Link to comment
danevans Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 All of you have been very helpful and I thank you.Glen Reed I will come back to this post and learn about posting pictures when I get a little more time. Again thank you all! Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Morning ks curmudgeon That is just a factory fill fitting (called a "ventilation bolt"). You can bleed it there on initial fill if you want but no real gain. Just treat it like a long banjo bolt (use new seal washers though) Link to comment
danevans Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Sorry to be such a pain but I have yet another question. The crush washers from Spiegler are much thicker than the stock washers. I am using the stock banjo bolts. The question is will the holes in the banjo bolts still line up with the cavity in the new brake lines? Link to comment
roger 04 rt Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Yes. Did the same job as you. Your old crush washers were thicker too, before they were crushed. Link to comment
danevans Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Got new brake lines installed (and bled of course) valves adjusted, new external fuel lines all of this was my first time. Bike started right up. I went for a short ride, came home and parked it for a while.Went out to start it up would not start! I keep hearing what I assume is the fuel pump running (starts and stops). I will take it apart tomorrow. I suspect all the jostling of the fuel tank has done something. I hope its a broken internal line. Link to comment
AnotherLee Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 kurmudgeon - Before you tear anything apart, perhaps you should investigate the simple things. Any chance it was in gear with the kickstand down? Other reasons for not starting have been investigated fairly often on this site. Do the lights come on when you turn on the ignition? Does the horn work? Does it crank? Did you install quick disconnects on the new external fuel lines? If so, check to make sure they are firmly connected. Link to comment
danevans Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 In neutral, lights come on,it does crank,did not try the horn.But you are very correct Try simple things I am going to go see if the quick disconnects came loose and I will let you know. Thanks for the reply! Link to comment
danevans Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Well that was dumb. I was not able to access the disconnects because of the fairing.Duh!I am tired I will deal with it in the morning. Link to comment
AnotherLee Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Stopping when tired has always served me well. Good idea. I have been known to leave the fairings off, sometimes for weeks, while I convince myself everything will be all right. Link to comment
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