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How the heck do you remove the rear wheel on an RTW?


bwr

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The owner's manual makes it look simple enough: remove the lug nuts and roll the wheel back. The problem is that there's not enough room between the brake rotor and the muffler for the tire to fit -- even with the caliper removed.

 

I'm stumped.

 

:mad:

 

Anybody done this?

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The manual also says swing the muffler out of the way before removing the wheel (p.128 - muffler swinging instructions on p.129).

 

(after removing the muffler beauty cover) Remove the rear upper muffler mount bolt, loosen the clamp bolt down at the butterfly valve, and rotate the muffler down/out (or just pull it off the header and set it aside (on something soft so the finish isn't scratched)).

 

This is the same procedure as was used on the hex/camheads.

Edited by mneblett
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  • 2 years later...
Andrew Harmsworth

This sounds strange but does anyone know if the rear wheel nuts are reverse thread just broken two torx bits trying to undo them?

Edited by Andrew Harmsworth
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Not reverse thread. But 60 Nm tight. You need to have quality tools when working with high torque numbers.

 

And even then I've had to use a breaker bar to loosen those bad boys up.

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I had to replace my rear tire recently and realized moving muffler aside was a must. I just went ahead and took it off to get super easy access. You can see the servo controlled butterfly valve right after the catalytic converter, so I had to see it in action. It was interesting watching the butterfly valve do its thing revving motor up and letting it idle down (guess I'm easily entertained). Neighbor thought I bought a very sickly Hawg!

 

You know that sound you hear about 20 seconds or so after powering down, I had always thought it was some electrical relay, but it is the butterfly valve fully closing.

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In my option it's always a good idea to use a breaker bar when freeing high torque, save your tools. Also make sure the tool is properly inserted, I use one hand to hold in place while pulling with the other.

 

I too find it required to move the muffler to the side I don't remove it from the bike. I also found the need to put a little anti seize on it as well, makes future movement easy.

 

Jay

Edited by strataj
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Wheel bolts go back in WITHOUT any lubricant or anti-seize. I do hit them with a wire brush to clean them up.

 

I find that removing the muffler only takes a moment to do. I do put a bit of anti-sieze on the muffler joint.

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Andrew Harmsworth

Thanks for the help for what it's worth I had to l heat the bolts. I think they had been lock tight 'ed' also needed a breaker bar. More than 60nm for sure.

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When you had it open you should have sprayed some Sea Foam fogger in it. The guys in the UK are having issues with these seizing. Next time I pull the rear tire I will spray it down with Sea Foam fogger.

 

No way of defeating it and it is a very costly fix.

 

Every time I have the GS-911 out I make it activate it so I can hear it well.

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When you had it open you should have sprayed some Sea Foam fogger in it. The guys in the UK are having issues with these seizing. Next time I pull the rear tire I will spray it down with Sea Foam fogger.

 

No way of defeating it and it is a very costly fix.

 

Every time I have the GS-911 out I make it activate it so I can hear it well.

 

I wondered about that but worried that anything 100% petroleum based will just burn to a charred incrustation actually making the problem worse. Maybe one of the high temp Never-Seez products would be better as it at least leaves a metal paste film. Wonder if the regional nature of the fuel in the UK is part of the issue as I haven't read so much about it here. Mine was free moving so I decided not to "fix" it.

 

I guess I would not want to defeat it as I think it helps quiet the bike at steady cruise. And as I said before you hear the butterfly close about 20-30 seconds after power down. I'll just be sure to listen for a change in the sound indicating it is getting hung up.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Found on the internet *link* in a search for "torx vs hex"

I use a pick to clean the head out first...
sounds like a good addition to advice above - wheel bolts in a dirty environment.
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