hefy_jefy Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Anybody known what the valve clearances should be for a 2104 RT, I am guessing .006 Inlet and 0.012 on the exhaust same as the water cooled GS. Nothing in the owners manual. Geoff Link to comment
strataj Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Inlet .10 - .17mm Exhaust .34 - .41mm same for GS LC Jay Link to comment
bwr Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 A somewhat related question: anybody know how likely valves will need to be adjusted at the 12K or 24k services or are they typically still in spec (may have to base that answer on camheads since not that many wets will have that much mileage yet)? Link to comment
hefy_jefy Posted June 8, 2015 Author Share Posted June 8, 2015 Thanks folks - I guess in general that most water cooled GS engines are nearly the same as the RT? Its just that the GS has been around a bit longer so there's more info out there. Brian, I will let you know what mine look like after 12,000 miles - hopefully later this week. I was reading elsewhere that in general this is a check rather than an adjustment, unless something goes wrong they should stay in spec for a long time... Geoff Link to comment
PadG Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 All the WC boxer engines are exactly the same. The differences between the RT and GS is in the gearing. BTW, I think that it's a great investment to get a copy of Jim VonBaden's DVD for reference. Lots of info out there, but one just have to know where to look! FYI, here is the valve clearance chart from Jim's web site: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/Wethead%20Valve%20Chart008%20copy%202.jpg Link to comment
hefy_jefy Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Just what I needed thanks. Yes I am going to get Jims DVD! Geoff Link to comment
DavidJAX Posted June 10, 2015 Share Posted June 10, 2015 Here is what my dealer found at my 12k check. Left - Exhaust .35 .35 Left - Intake .15 .15 Right - Exhaust .36 .35 Right - Intake .16 .15 As you can see all 4 intake valves were right in the middle but all the exhaust valves were a little tight but still in spec. Since they were within specs I elected to wait to see how they come out at 24k. Link to comment
MarcParnes Posted June 11, 2015 Share Posted June 11, 2015 At the 12K mine were all right in the middle. At the 24K I found one exhaust near the limit which will need a thicker shim next time. All the rest were fine. I also checked the valve timing and still no adjustment necessary. Marc Link to comment
hefy_jefy Posted June 12, 2015 Author Share Posted June 12, 2015 Here's what I had at 12,000 miles: Right Front Inlet 0.10<>0.15 Right Rear Inlet 0.10<>0.15 Right Front Exhaust 0.35<>0.40 Right Rear Exhaust 0.35<>0.40 Left Front Inlet 0.10<>0.15 Left Rear Inlet 0.10<>0.15 Left Front Exhaust 0.35<>0.40 Left Rear Exhaust 0.35<>0.40 Which puts them almost exactly in the middle of the spec. Link to comment
C Wallace Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Where is the plug that allows you to figure out TDC? Link to comment
Rob L Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 No plug on these. You can find TDC by placing something (screwdriver, straw, pencil, etc.) through the sparkplug hole and turning the engine in top gear using the rear wheel. The valves are checked when the flats on the cams line up. I bought Jim Vonbaden's dvd and it was very helpful to learn service procedures for this engine. http://www.jvbproductions.com/ Link to comment
PadG Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Where is the plug that allows you to figure out TDC? There is a port on the crankcase where you can use one of BMW's special tool to locate TDC as well as BDC. However, as RobL pointed out, you don't need to do it this way. A wooden dowel in the sparkplug hole is good, or lining up the flats on the camshaft with a straightedge is good. You have a very large amount of tolerance to play with, IF you are simply checking the valve clearances. OTOH, if you are resetting the cam timing (which is possible with the new LC boxer engines), then you must use the port that I had first mentioned, along with a couple other special tools to do that adjustment. Link to comment
C Wallace Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Yeah, it was easy enough to see when the cams were at tdc. And like every other poster here my valves did not need adjustment. Took way more time to get to the air filter and discover it was no where near needing replacement. Thanks for the info. Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 For checking valve gap, this is plenty good enough: Jim Link to comment
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