Jump to content

No Brake Lights on R1100RT-P


foundationapps

Recommended Posts

foundationapps

Did a stupid thing... for the last 9 months since having my 1100 RT-P. Never checked if the brake lights came on. I have the Blue fuze removed so the dash light doesn't come on as there is an issue the the ABS (reference other posts on removing the ABS).

 

Couple of guys have mentioned that the wiring for the brake light doesn't go through the ABS plug. Any ideas on why the brake lights don't work? Heard it mentioned that there are monofilament bulbs in the taillights, they need to be dual filament? Is this valid?

 

Any suggestions? Very much appreciated.

Link to comment

Morning foundationapps

 

 

On your brake lights not working.

 

Assuming you have an 1100 with ABS-2 system then the brake light power comes direct to the #1 fuse from the ign switch, then through the brake light switch(s), then to the brake light bulb.

 

So #1 fuse needs to be in place & working good, & all wires need to have continuity, & brake light switches need to go N/C with brake apply.

 

Link to comment

Morning Again

 

I forgot to answer your bulb query--BMW boxers didn't use dual filament bulbs back then so your rear bulbs are 12v 21 watt single contact bulbs.

Link to comment

As DR said, the bulbs are single filament. There are two; one is on all the time when the ignition is on and the other is for the brake. I use a 1051 bulb for the brake, if you use and 1156 (another common single filament bulb) you run the risk of melting the plastic as they are too bright. They do go out from time to time so carry spares.

 

The ABS is completely independent from the brake lights. There is a switch at the handle of the front brake master cylinder and another near the rear brake pedal. You can hear the 'click' of the switch when you press either brake. I have had the rear switch break off the metal leg that goes to the brake pedal.

 

Do your running lights work?

 

Link to comment
foundationapps

Thanks guys for responding. I'll check the fuzes. Running lights do work. All other signaling devices associated with a -P model work fine. Neither front nor rear brakes can actuate the lights. To compensate for now, I manually activate the rear red LED pulse emitters, that works pretty good to get traffic's attention. I'd rather it be automated though :)

Link to comment
Glenn Reed

mneblett might be able to shed some light on this, but the RT-P's can sometimes have some funky wiring, as they had to support all sorts of Police equipment that the civilian bikes did not have. You might reach out to him directly, if he doesn't poke his head in here.

 

Glenn

Link to comment
foundationapps

Glenn: Fuzes all check out fine. I'll start running out the wiring. Your signature line is good insight. I've heard disaster stories about wires snipped and hanging in mid air when the stripped off the LE stuff. Here in Idaho, only item removed is the Red / Blue flashers and noise sirens.

Link to comment

Afternoon foundationapps

 

Did you verify the rear bulbs are good & of the correct type?

 

If you have a volt meter or 12v test light verify if brake-on power is getting to the switches & then on to the rear bulb.

 

 

Link to comment
mneblett might be able to shed some light on this, but the RT-P's can sometimes have some funky wiring, as they had to support all sorts of Police equipment that the civilian bikes did not have. You might reach out to him directly, if he doesn't poke his head in here.

 

Glenn

Thanks for the direct, but my experience is with an R1150RT-P, which has a completely different brake light arrangement than the R1100RT-P's.

 

AFAIK, neither the R1150RT-P nor the R1100RT-P had any authority-related modifications to the brake light circuits, so I doubt there's an RT-P link to this problem. Unfortunately, it's been more than 15 years since I owned an R1100RT (civilian model) so I am not up to speed on the R1100's wiring (other than the general description D.R. provided).

 

Happy to try to help, but I generally try to avoid stepping beyond the limits of my direct model experience (although I'm always happy to speculate on theoretical things! :D )

Link to comment
Glenn Reed

Thanks Mark. I just knew I'd seen you helping out on the Oilhead RT-P questions before, and I "assumed" that extended to the 1100's as well. You know what they say about assuming... :dopeslap:

Link to comment
foundationapps

I do have a voltmeter, i'll get to that this evening. Dang raining here again, so i'll sit in the garage with some Jameson's and start triaging this thing. Thanks for the help.

 

 

Link to comment

Evening foundationapps

 

 

Just start at the #1 fuse (key on) verify 12v into & OUT OF the #1 fuse, then probably check for 12v into then out of (the applied ) rear brake switch, then check for power at rear bulb socket or rear tail light housing connector.

Link to comment
foundationapps

Here's what I discovered so far.

 

1. 12.5 volts at the fuze, key on. Should add for clarity, fuze checks out.

2. Bulb and wire are good at the tail light.

3. The only place I could see to check a connection (not being familiar with these switches) were 2 small screws on the bottom of the wire plug. Result: 0 volts lever out and while depressing the lever, key on.

 

Odd thing, same issue with the rear brake, though I haven't checked that wire circuit yet.

Link to comment

Evening foundationapps

 

You are are getting there--- if you have power TO the fuse & power OUT OF the fuse & the brake light socket & bulbs are good then your problem either lies in the wire between them or both brake switches are bad.

 

 

Link to comment
foundationapps

Roger that, will run the wires out tomorrow when I do the weekly removal of plastic stuff. Power appears to be good as you said, bulbs check out. Is it possible to "fake" a switch working by crossing up the wires going into the front brake switch?

Link to comment
Roger that, will run the wires out tomorrow when I do the weekly removal of plastic stuff. Power appears to be good as you said, bulbs check out. Is it possible to "fake" a switch working by crossing up the wires going into the front brake switch?

 

Morning foundationapps

 

 

Yes, that should eliminate the switch & pass power on to the circuit rearward of the switch.

 

What I usually do is verify switch operation & if the front switch works then just use a zip tie around the twist grip & brake lever to hold the brake lever/switch ON. (or hang a weight on rear brake pedal once I verify that switch works)

Link to comment
foundationapps

Everyone who helped out on this little issue, thanks. Both front and rear switches were kaput. Crossed the wires to test the circuit and lights on. Much appreciate the help.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...