tupperware

[Rex R]

I'm looking for a little help stripping the tupperware off an 1150RTP. I'm sure this has been covered on this forum. Unfortunately, the search function is not the best and I've come up empty.

 

I have the Tech Daze manual, and a few other things. But more information is always helpful.

 

Can someone help post a link to a couple of threads on the topic?

 

Much appreciated.

[tallman]

Just keep track of where all the screws came from.

Cardboard labeled to each section of bike.

If you have the crash bars off, it isn't that hard to do.

There should be different lengths, just put them back from where they came which is why the cardboard works.

 

[PAS]

That would be fine if they are in the correct place to begin with.

[EffBee]

I take it you want to remove the main sections in order to service the bike, and not remove the nose and the tail sections. If so, it should be about the same as a civilian RT.

 

The screws that are visible are easy. But here's where the hidden ones are.

 

One behind each mirror. You have to remove the mirror (it snaps on, so a good forward whack on the outer edge of the mirror hosing, using your palm, will do it. DON'T DROP THE MIRROR!!!

 

Two (one on each side) of the oil cooler entrance in the nose of the bike.

 

Two horizontal screws on each side, down by the header pipe (be sure the bike is cool).

 

One inverted vertical screw in the same area by each header pipe.

 

One at the very rear of the fuel tank, near the battery.

 

And don't forget the little black 1/4-turn screw at the upper rearmost part of each fairing half.

 

After removing the screws from the belly pan, pull out the lower part of the fairing a little (helps if you open the glove box on the left side). Then lift the rear (there's a locking tab on the uppermost forward edge of each fairing half and you want to rock it downward so it releases, and then lift the fairing upward to dislodge it from the groove on either side of the top fuel tank section. It's a little tricky the first time, but nothing special. After a few times, you'll get to where you can strip both sides in 10 minutes.

 

BTW, most of the screws are the same length, but a few are different (longer). Make note of where they go so you can put them back correctly.

 

I think that covers it. But if I missed anything, someone please chime in and make it right.

[mneblett]

+1 -- the only difference is the front crash bars ("safety bars" in BMW-ese).

 

Hints:

 

1. Don't loose the spacer at the upper bolt between the bar and the upper mount.

 

2. The right front bolt behind the right exhaust head pipe is a witch to access without a ball-end Allen wrench.

 

3. After removing the belly pan and the three bolts for each bar (and the bars, obviously), once all of the screws are out of the side panel pull up at (not out) at the rear and at the same time rotate the panel forward slightly -- this will disengage the panel's top tangs from the tank center panel's groove while also drawing the big tab at the nose down/out of its slot in the nose fairing. Then, as you are pulling it away from the bike, the part of the panel behind the exhaust head pipe *will* hang up on the safety bar's rear mount (the bar that tucks under the cylinder and bolts at its aft end to the centerstand bracket). Just flex the panel and/or tug the mount bar sideways a bit to free the panel.

[Rex R]

I take it you want to remove the main sections in order to service the bike, and not remove the nose and the tail sections. If so, it should be about the same as a civilian RT.

 

 

 

Eventually, I also want to take the front fairing off also, preferably before I need to. The tail section I've already removed several times.

 

Thanks for all the info, guys. This should help get me started. If anyone else would like to contribute, please jump in.

 

 

[AndyS]

...

 

One inverted vertical screw in the same area by each header pipe.

 

Shouldn't that be 2 inverted vertical screws.

 

 

 

[Twinsig]

That would be fine if they are in the correct place to begin with.

 

10-4 on that

[MontanaMark]

I take it you want to remove the main sections in order to service the bike, and not remove the nose and the tail sections. If so, it should be about the same as a civilian RT.

 

 

 

Eventually, I also want to take the front fairing off also, preferably before I need to. The tail section I've already removed several times.

 

Thanks for all the info, guys. This should help get me started. If anyone else would like to contribute, please jump in.

 

To remove the nose:

 

First you will have to remove the windscreen and the dash. Removing the nose section requires you to remove 4 ea. 10mm (i think) bolts - 2 on each side. These bolts are hidden under the side panels so you will see them once the sides are off. Don't pull to hard when you get all that stuff loose; you still need to remove the headlight connector and the parking light. There may be 3 brass bushes which may fall out when you remove the nose. These go on the three mounting posts visible around the headlight housing when you have it nose off. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

 

Cheers,

Mark

[AndyS]

Civilian Nose removal

• Remove the seat.

• Remove side mirrors.

• Remove fairing side sections.

• Remove windscreen.

• Remove cover for windscreen adjuster.

• Remove inner trim of fairing.

. Disconnect the Headlight adjusting knob from the inner trim.

• Remove left loudspeaker box.

• Remove aerial.

• Remove the sidelight from the headlight housing.

• Feed left and right turn-indicator cables through

the fairing.

• Remove the 4 off M6 torx screws , pull the upper section of the

fairing forward and hold it in position.

• Disconnect plug for headlight.

• Remove upper section of fairing.

. Be very careful when easing the Nose Fairing off, that you don't lose or dislodge the 2 off metal bushes that align the nose onto the mounting frame.

• Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

 

Note:

Before installing the upper section of the fairing, insert

metal bushes into rubber guides.

Make sure that the headlight adjuster is correctly routed.

 

[Ride Slow]

This thread is awesome. I will be doing the same shortly, to hook up the Gerbing heated gear, and add a power outlet. And generally look at all the stuff I have been reading about.

 

To the OP, you don't happen to have an owners manual for the RTP?

 

Mine is a 2002. BBY does not currently have an RTP owners manual.

[Rex R]

To the OP, you don't happen to have an owners manual for the RTP?

 

Mine is a 2002. BBY does not currently have an RTP owners manual.

 

As a matter of fact, I do.

 

 

 

[Rex R]

Ride slow,

 

Did you want a copy of it?

[Ride Slow]

Sorry for long wait on reply, yes I would like a copy. (Too much O.T. and chores, taking a break and eating a cookie while reading here...)

[EffBee]

...

 

One inverted vertical screw in the same area by each header pipe.

 

Shouldn't that be 2 inverted vertical screws.

 

 

 

Yup. Thanks for stepping up with the right information. I havent de-tupperwared the bike in about a year, and I forgot. TWO screws.

[Alba]

I have taken the tupperware off an 02 1150RT and the longer screw positions in the left side did not match that of the right also I have two long from the left and three from the right side !!!

 

How many long screws should I have and where do the ago?

 

Thanks

[Boffin]

On the 1150, there were long screws under the mirror pods and on the lower, outer dash panel positions. The most important thing though is to be sure to use short ones on the tank.

 

 

Andy

[Alba]

Great, cheers