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Clearwater lights on RTLC


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Hi, I'm fitting DARLAs on the factory hangers to my RTLC. I'm using the Canopener. Wiring seems straightforward except I can't work out the routing for the green wire. The manual says that it plugs into the greens from the lights but the Canopener green I have up by the rider seat as it makes sense for those elements to be there. For example, I'm using the hot wire to fire up my PDM. I'd doesn't seem to make sense to take the data cable out to the front end and then run a wire back.

 

What am I missing?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Pete

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The green in the short harness at the CanOpener is the aux high beam relay driver, *not* the dimmer control.

 

The wiring schematic in the instructions shows two CanOpener output cables -- the data cable that leads to the Trident adapter and the bundle of "future" applications wires. The green in that bundle is not the right green.

 

The dimmer green wire you want is in the Trident adapter -- it should be right next to the red and black wires that you connected to the lights. Alternatively stated, the red, black and green wires from the lights all meet their red, black and green connections at the same point -- the bare wire end of the Trident adapter.

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Hi, understood. The data cable goes to the front and meets the lights. The hot pick up for the PDM is in the 'future' bundle. Thanks

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The hot pick up for the PDM is in the 'future' bundle.

For info if you haven't already discovered this (I've already BTDT): The CanOpener fusebox trigger wire sends an "on" signal to the fusebox (in your case, the PDM 60) only when the engine is running. If you have anything wired to the PDM that you want to work with the ignition on but the engine off, you won't have it.

 

I originally wired my CanOpener this way, and was baffled when the fusebox would not switch on with the ignition (fuel tank was off, so no way to run the engine). An exchange of e-mails with Glenn at Clearwater confirmed the engine-running-only operation. I suggested a user-selectable mode for activation without the engine running; Glenn acknowledged the desirability of the option and put it in his (miles-high) todo list.

 

I moved my fusebox trigger to the rear power outlet harness for the time being -- I do not have an RTW wiring schematic, so I've yet to find a non-delayed off power source (i.e., a switched 12V source that is not controlled by the ZFE).

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I moved my fusebox trigger to the rear power outlet harness for the time being -- I do not have an RTW wiring schematic, so I've yet to find a non-delayed off power source (i.e., a switched 12V source that is not controlled by the ZFE).

 

Afternoon Mark

 

 

I don't have a wire diagram either but if your bike has a starter relay (& you can find it) in most cases those need a Key-On power source (without engine running).

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Thanks, D.R.

 

I'll take a look, but my memory from poking around is that the starter solenoid (located on the left side under a side cover, separate from the starter on the right side of the engine) is directly controlled by a wire that is live only when the starter button is depressed and the controller energizes the wire.

 

You are right -- if the bike had a conventional three-step arrangement (starter button wire to a relay, switched power-fed relay to a solenoid, solenoid to the starter) we'd all be set for switched power. So far it looks like BMW has taken central control of electrical distribution to the next level with the wetheads.

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FYI, Clearwater will be at the MOA rally in Billings, running a special, and doing installations by appointment. There is a set of Darla's waiting for yours truly.

 

 

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