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Hello all, newish member here, post # 1.


First off I have been lurking and digging through the sight for some time. In fact it lead me to finally choose and eventually buy a used 99 RT.

16737855957_98a51333d2_z.jpgIMG_2227 by twliveson, on Flickr

I purchased the bike on Ebay, sight unseen, caught a flight to Miami and rode it back to Upstate NY last November. Just beat the real cold weather. It was a great experience, stopped at the Barber Museum and took the "Snake" route through WVA and WV. The bike preformed flawlessly and as it was my first experience on a large bike I absolutely loved the way the miles just got gobbled up. I could go on and on but lets just say that I purchased the bike because I felt it was one I would want to keep. I just love the lines, to me it is a thing of beauty....pre servo and from what I read something that even I, no mechanic by any stretch, could possibly work on. The bike is at a mere 30k when parked last November.

16758992219_4e61ce05f0_z.jpgIMG_3135 by twliveson, on Flickr

So......hmmm, how did this happen. From my research here and all over the web I gathered there where three essential things to do:

1. Change the brake lines and new shoes. I ordered Spiegler, expensive but nice, I splurged. I have never done a break job but there seems to be enough info between the web and Hanyes manual that I feel confident I can get it done safely. I am going to get a mightyvac to make it easier for one person...?

2. Check or replace the HES. Well I ordered one but have yet to get to that yet. Everything is off so I guess this is the time to do it. Seems I will be able to do this once I understand TOC.

3. Check or replace internal fuel lines. I got the tank off which I positively thought was empty, what a mess, such an idiot. Anyway, the lines look and feel perfect. I ordered a Fuel Pump Kit PLUS 37mm Diameter - K & R Models / 16 14 1 341 231, FF-859 Fuel Filter, Hose Kit, Foam Adaptor Sleeve from Motoelectrics, perhaps prematurely. I am not sure what to do, I hate to take apart things that are in good order.

16737850387_0e53469513_z.jpgIMG_3138 by twliveson, on Flickr

16757501928_6ba99d6e5e_z.jpgIMG_3139 by twliveson, on Flickr

16919253056_31ee7af3ce_z.jpgIMG_3140 by twliveson, on Flickr

Also, a plastic float came loose from the filler cap assembly when I was monkeying around in there. Is there a secret to putting it back on, it seems a bit precarious when reattached to the tube. Are the breather hoses also suppose to be replace at some point. They look solid. I hate that I took this thing that worked perfectly apart but I suppose that is the only way to know.


So at this point, my shop smells like a gas station, my bike is apart in many pieces and I am fretting like a barn yard chicken. Some advice and wisdom on what order of business would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and happy to have come out of the shadows.



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Congrats on having the balls to tear the bike down and do so much essential preparation work. As "Steptoe" in London says on another oilhead forum, "only by thoroughly wrenching your bike can you fully get to know it and take full possession of this marvellous machine."


The things you've got ready to replace are all the exact right stuff. All the gen on what to do with them is either on this forum under a search list, or try other excellent pages like :


R1150.net which covers a range of forums;


UKGser.com - which altho' aimed specifically at the big tall ground-gobbler, is full of expert advice on all oilheads;


ADVRider.com - giving you chapter and verse on the other essential thing to check out on your bike, the dry clutch, its slave cylinder, its friction plate the state of wear on that item's hub and the commensurate gearbox input shaft splines. and


BMWBikes.co.uk - also full of expert knowledge on the occasional and thankfully rare eventualities that stall this fine range of machines.


Congrats also on the superb quality of your detailed pictures appearing here.


Onwards and upwards old pal - these bikes generously reward thoughtful regular maintenance, all of which can be done by the average rider with a modicum of motor skills and good tools, thus returning in most cases hundreds of Ks of miles / Kms as a token of their thanks.


Finally, remember to lift off the cover of your clutch master cylinder on the left handlebar, provided of course yours is a hydraulically-operated clutch variant, and fingers XXed the DOT4 brake fluid in there will be nice and clear and not muddy. If it's iffy-looking, some work will be needed, and maybe a new slave cylinder - hundred snoojits from Beemer Boneyard or somebody like that.


Finally, Rule One - stay away from the garage of the average BMW Stealer;


Rule Two:- no breaking Rule One !


Happy wrenching.


AL in s.e. Spain looking.

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So at this point, my shop smells like a gas station, my bike is apart in many pieces and I am fretting like a barn yard chicken.






Yeah, you look to be in pretty deep. :grin:. Ask the questions and we'll help you put it back together.


I'd probably change out all of the tank hoses, certainly the U hose. You already got it apart?


The brake lines are easy, I just did mine. I don't think you'll need the mityvac. You can reach everything. Every time I try to use one of those things, I usually end up throwing it across the garage. :dopeslap:

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3. Check or replace internal fuel lines. I got the tank off which I positively thought was empty, what a mess, such an idiot. Anyway, the lines look and feel perfect. I ordered a Fuel Pump Kit PLUS 37mm Diameter - K & R Models / 16 14 1 341 231, FF-859 Fuel Filter, Hose Kit, Foam Adaptor Sleeve from Motoelectrics, perhaps prematurely. I am not sure what to do, I hate to take apart things that are in good order.


At the age of your bike you really should replace all the in-tank hoses. They don't look too bad on the outside but hose looks can be deceiving as you can't see the inner layers or test the hose integrity.


It isn't that difficult if a person is used to working on like high pressure fuel systems but proper procedures, proper fuel injection hose & FI clamps are a must as well.


You have the tank off & all apart, so NOW is the time to replace hoses, filter, & clamps VS replacing them out on the road far from home.


If you don't feel comfortable doing the job yourself then take the tank & hoses you do have to a qualified BMW service dealer or other QUALIFIED repair facility & have them do it for you (you have already done a good portion of the labor removing the plastic & tank)


If you go ahead & replace all the in-tank rubber now that is just one less thing to worry about as you ride far & wide.

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Ditto what D.R. said. It is already apart and open. Brake lines are easy. No vac necessary. I am in Wilson, NY near Niagara Falls. Let me know if I can help at all.

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Thanks everyone for the support. The fuel pump kit came today so I suppose I will get to replacing the hoses and fuel filter, perhaps hold onto the pump as backup for the future? I will order the longer hoses from BMW most likely as the auto stores around here have very limited stock. I am not sure about proper procedures having never done this work before dirtrider, but I figured I would do one hose at a time, very carefully so as not to get confused. Align the fuel filter correctly, the kit comes with the correct hose and clamp specs, fingers crossed. Thanks again......I'll keep up a report as it goes.


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clip-- what do you think about this for the vent lines?



Afternoon Twinsig


Personally not that much, I used that Tygon for fuel lines on my garden tractor

& while it hasn't cracked, or the actual hose part leaked, it is harder than a

piece of steel rod after a few years & it is very difficult to keep the fitting

attachments from seeping due to the Tygon hardening up.


It might work OK for a vent line as far as not leaking but my big concern is getting

it apart in the future without damaging the pass through or upper tube fittings

due to the hardened hose. (& I used the "supposedly" non hardening Tygon)


With all the work involved in taking it apart I just can't see not using the

correct BMW rated internal vent hose (it's expensive but not THAT expensive &

sure cheaper than damaging the pump pass through).

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Can anyone tell me where the access hole is for locking the flywheel on a 99 rt? Does a bolt need to be removed to get to it? I am attempting to replace the Hall sensor tomorrow. There is a great tutorial by Dana Hager I found online but the location of the one pictured is no lining up with mine.


I am in way over my head with little real understanding of what does what. But I am in it now. Thanks again!

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Thanks dirtrider, I am going down to my shop to see if I can locate it. I was going to make the Mandrel tomorrow and hopefully tick one thing off the list.

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I thought I would share a picture of the new and old Hall sensor I swapped on my 99 RT. The old one looks in great shape to me. The bike has 30k. The alternator belt looked and felt pristine also but I am installing a new one while I am there.

16827934829_75b5005deb_z.jpgIMG_3156 by twliveson, on Flickr


I got the new the brake lines on, new brake pads and brakes bled. Not a bad job once I realized how useless and messy the Mightyvac was. The only bummer so far has been discovering when I put the front wheel back on that the new valve is scrapping the left caliper.....rrrrrrrrr! I took my wheels in to a local shop to have new tires mounted,they ordered some valves to replace the rotted ones, unfortunately not the correct size. I will have to do it all over again for the front wheel.


I get the rest of the parts for the internal gas lines tomorrow and hope to have it back together soon. I hope the bike is as good as it was before I took it apart......



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One quick question. I am not exactly sure where the rubber grommet on the Hall Sensor goes as I was not paying enough attention when pulling it out. Is it supposed to go inside the bracket or just below it? Thanks in advance.

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Yup! They look good.....HOWEVER, the issues with the degrading wire covering will not become clear until you remove the sheathing around them. First thing to check is the condition of the individual wires from the connecting block to the start of the black sheathing. You may find that the individual wire covering is cracked and brittle and will flake off if you rub them with your finger nail.


Do a search on Hall Sensor wiring and you'll find all sorts of info on how to R&R the wiring while keeping the sensors and mounting. This way you end up with a spare HES :) !


On my 2000 R1100R, the first inch of wiring had started to fall apart and when I removed the main sheathing, it was pretty much buggered all the way down!



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