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The Rocketman

H7 Bulb Plastic Connectors

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The Rocketman

If any of you have broken the little black plastic H7 headlight bulb connectors that look like this:

clip1_zpsb497645d.jpg

and have been left with this:

clip2_zpsfa32df79.jpg

 

BMW doesn't sell just the plastic piece; they sell a "repair kit" which is the plastic piece with a 12" length of wires attached, to the tune of $40.

 

Fortunately, this time there was an AMP part number imprinted on it, as most of the small plastic BMW connectors are made for them by AMP or TYCO. I found a distributor called Mouser Electronics in Texas who had 1,060 of these plastic doo-hickeys in stock, has no minimum order, and charges $0.23 (yepper) that's 23 cents a piece. Go figure....guess what profits BMW can't make on bikes, they surely make up for in parts. Ha!!

 

AMP p/n 965430-1

Mouser p/n 571-965430-1

Description: POS LOCK HSG

Unit Price USD 0.230

Sue Ogle

Customer Service and Sales

Mouser Electronics, Inc.

sue.ogle@mouser.com

Customer Service Team at 800-346-6873

 

Part link:

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/965430-1/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhwtZM78IUSkCeh8m%2fzV2XaDpmS9Tx2WpA%3d

 

Edited by The Rocketman

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dirtrider

Afternoon Rocketman

 

Truthfully, if the plastic is broken I just remove it completely & toss it in the trash.

 

Not really needed once the terminals are snapped onto the light prongs. (where can they go once plugged in?)

 

I guess if I needed to do something exotic I would visit my local auto parts store & buy a ceramic plug from any number of auto H-7 light repair pigtails.

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JayJay
Afternoon Rocketman

 

Truthfully, if the plastic is broken I just remove it completely & toss it in the trash.

 

Not really needed once the terminals are snapped onto the light prongs. (where can they go once plugged in?)

 

I guess if I needed to do something exotic I would visit my local auto parts store & buy a ceramic plug from any number of auto H-7 light repair pigtails.

Mine both broke from heat embrittlement a while ago. I ran with just the bare terminals, as DR suggests, but then got thinking that it was likely that I'd need a bulb replacement sometime and could use the convenience of having the bracket. I found some ceramic connectors and installed them. Sure enough, this summer I lost a bulb and ended up replacing it in the dark in a hotel parking lot during a rainstorm, doing the whole thing by Braille. I was glad to have the connector, changing those bulbs is enough of a PITA without having to fight the wires too.

 

JayJay

Edited by JayJay

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The Rocketman

Ceramic connectors certainly would work fine, but most come with leads that require soldering in place as best I can see. Also a lot (but not all) connectors have aluminum wiring, rather than copper. Plus, I just like things the way they're supposed to be. I know, most any repair would work, and be practical, but for 23 cents, you can't go wrong, and I can sleep tonight.

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dspeer

Personally, I prefer the bare connectors. After changing bulbs two or three times, you'll find the fit can start getting a little loose. Without the cover, you can give them a little pinch with pliers to insure a tight fit on the prongs.

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rottyjohn

Hello Rocketman,

 

I had same thing happen. I just put some heat shrink on it no issue with it in 2 years of riding.

 

John

 

 

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Dimond
If you are looking for ceramic connectors, these are

Plug&Play. No soldering needed

 

http://www.buyheadlightbulbs.com/H7-Heavy-Duty-Wiring-Harness-p/cir-9103.htm

 

H7harness_zps72e16210.jpg

Would I need to install a female quick connector on my R1200RT wiring OR I guess I could just cot and solder it?

Presently I just use bare connectors as my plastic has long disintegrated (even had to cut 2 inches off the brown wires and solder it to the connector on one plug as the copper wiring was disintegrating and only making occasional contact).

I like the idea of NOT having HOT and GROUND capable of touching during replacement - never been a problem so far - but just don't like the thought of any potential of a short) - so this thread gives me some (low cost) options (as $100 for the two connectors was a bit rich for me).

Does it matter if the TWO brown wires are on TOP or BOTTOM (I have them on the bottom) of the H7 Bulb? Where do these two brown wires go?

 

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dirtrider

Afternoon Dimond

 

 

Yes, you can cut & solder, or use other crimp-type wire connectors.

 

You can usually get a cheaper H-7 ceramic connector with pig tails from your local auto parts store.

 

My personal way of making pig tail connection is splice-clips that are then soldered & the joint covered with heat shrink.

 

Or you can just leave them bare--No worry about touching the (+) to the (-) when installing bulb UNLESS you install the bulb with the engine running (only time those wires are hot is with engine running)

 

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The Rocketman

It shouldn't matter whether the brown ground clip is on the top or bottom spade of the bulb. It doesn't know the difference. If you are concerned (which you shouldn't be) just make the one you are fixing like the other two.

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Dann
If you are looking for ceramic connectors, these are

Plug&Play. No soldering needed

 

http://www.buyheadlightbulbs.com/H7-Heavy-Duty-Wiring-Harness-p/cir-9103.htm

 

H7harness_zps72e16210.jpg

Would I need to install a female quick connector on my R1200RT wiring OR I guess I could just cot and solder it?

Presently I just use bare connectors as my plastic has long disintegrated (even had to cut 2 inches off the brown wires and solder it to the connector on one plug as the copper wiring was disintegrating and only making occasional contact).

I like the idea of NOT having HOT and GROUND capable of touching during replacement - never been a problem so far - but just don't like the thought of any potential of a short) - so this thread gives me some (low cost) options (as $100 for the two connectors was a bit rich for me).

Does it matter if the TWO brown wires are on TOP or BOTTOM (I have them on the bottom) of the H7 Bulb? Where do these two brown wires go?

 

If you can already connect your bulbs,I don't see why you would need any modification to these.

One end (Male) is like the h7 bulbs which will connect to your existing wiring (female)and the other (female) is where your bulb will now be connected to.

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The Rocketman

That is correct. You'll just plug your existing 2 copper colored connectors onto the end of the black plug shown in the above picture, then plug the blue end onto your bulb. You can fit the excess wires under the black twist-on cap with no problem. I would use real or liquid electrical tape or something like Rescue Tape just to seal off the connection of your bare clips first.

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lkraus

Does it matter if the TWO brown wires are on TOP or BOTTOM (I have them on the bottom) of the H7 Bulb? Where do these two brown wires go?

 

I LIKE the brown (ground) wires on the bottom. It appeals to the OCD part of me...

 

But I know it really does not matter to the H7 bulb. Might make a difference if you ever change to an LED or HID. Change it then, if needed.

 

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Chris L

I bought 4 of them, and have an extra one. If you need one drop me a line and I will send it for free. As long as it is in US. I will call it a pay it forward for under a buck... o2bafloat@aol.com

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6speedTi

I bought two of these on eBay. Ceramic and about 3 inches long. Fits good. They sit nicely isnide and no interference with bulb or cover. High beam is next. I'm sure that plug is brittle and falling apart.

6875.thumb.jpg.56f0ae3b131cd1d2cecf6ac4ca3443e4.jpg

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