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Tri750

49L topcase lock removal video

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Tri750

I just put on YouTube after a couple of requests,

 

I worked at a dealership for 15 years and one of the jobs no one wanted was rekeying locks.

When the new RT came out, one of the first jobs I was faced with was removing the cylinder. I did the disassembly once in total disbelief.

I then made the BMW "bent piece of wire" tool as suggested in the bulletin. Silly.

 

I reverted to modifying my "System case" tool and my technique.

The lock wafer on the newer than System cases only has 3 sides, think of a 3 sided rectangle. The missing side was to make the cylinder non-removable to add another layer of security.

The video exaggerates the movements to show the depth the tool has to be inserted and the motions.

I'm left handed, and mid video, I decided I better show how a right handed person would twist the tool.

Once the cylinder is removed, wafers can be swapped to fit your key, or if the cylinder was ordered by VIN, the wafers are pinned in and ideally a new cylinder should be used.

5125 7696 204.

One can adapt a pinned cylinder to work but you can get bad results doing this "commando method" so I won't be the one telling you how to do it. Just spend the money on a new cylinder.

 

 

 

 

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AnotherLee

Tri750 wrote:

...The video exaggerates the movements to show the depth the tool has to be inserted and the motions...

 

Tri - thanks for the video. Maybe a dumb question but when you're doing all that maneuvering, are you guided by feel? What are you looking for to indicate success?

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Semper-Fi-82

Do you have a drawing you can e-mail to me of the pick that I can duplicate.

I tried making one but I'm not sure that it was correct, spent more that an hour trying to get the lock out with no luck..

My e-mail address is jukes@att.net.

Thanks !!

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Tri750

I have a picture of the tool I can send. With the topcase in the upright position, meaning lid facing up like it was on the bike, the pointed end of the tool pulls DOWNWARD on the lock wafer.

The tip of the tool has to be narrow enough to fit in the thin channel.

The twisting of the tool digs the tip into the wafer so you can pull it downward, so you've got to give it some torque.

Your email address bounced back emails I sent.

Edited by Tri750

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Semper-Fi-82

jlukes@att.net ws the e-mail address I sent you ? JLUKES@att.net ?

 

Thanks sir.. I can e-mail you if you would like and you can respond to it?

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Tri750
Do you have a drawing you can e-mail to me of the pick that I can duplicate.

I tried making one but I'm not sure that it was correct, spent more that an hour trying to get the lock out with no luck..

My e-mail address is jukes@att.net.

Thanks !!

 

<>

Well, there you go, missing a letter.

I'll re-send.

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Tri750
Tri750 wrote:

...The video exaggerates the movements to show the depth the tool has to be inserted and the motions...

 

Tri - thanks for the video. Maybe a dumb question but when you're doing all that maneuvering, are you guided by feel? What are you looking for to indicate success?

 

Sorry, guess i missed this.

You insert the tool 23.5mm and you'll feel the tip fall into a channel or valley.

This is where the locking tab lives. It falls into this channel becase the tab only has three sides. Think a three sided rectangle, or upside down U. The peak of the U is facing upwards locking the cylinder in. There is no bottom of the U so you feel the open area.

You raise the tool straight up when you locate the channel, twist the tool right or left to engage the side of the U , and while keeping the tool torqued, drag it downward.

This forces the tip into the side of the wafer that is spring loaded.

As you bring it downward, stop at the bottom of the stroke and pull.

I do it very quickly because I've done dozens and dozens. You need to be more deliberate.

Repeat-repeat.

On the lucky down stroke. The cylinder will pop out. THAT is your happy place.

Then you deal with re-keying.

Or deal with a pinned cylinder that was ordered by VIN, but it's out.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tri750

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Motobricker

How about removing the lock on the smaller trunk? I tried and it does not look anything like the 49L. Anyone have a video? or instructions?

 

 

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Tri750

Exactly the same.

No matter if it's for an F800 or a newer RT, same procedure.

 

Ralph up in Quebec just did his 800 with my tool, sent it back after making his own for use on another bike.

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Karlington1

I actually did this last night (removed the BMW TpCase cylinder). I followed the video, but created a little different tool. Here is the tool.

It worked great once I got the exact length right.

 

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Tri750

I redid the original video with some narration. 

The topcase I used was very cooperative and the lock came out in seconds on the first attempt with a tool I hadn't tested on a cylinder in my re-key kit. 

Here is the updated video. 

 

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TF1200RT

I removed my lock with a paper clip. Took about ten seconds.

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