Guest Kakugo Posted October 7, 2014 Share Posted October 7, 2014 Replacing your R1200RT rear brake rotor. Tools and parts you are going to need: Rear rotor Rear brake pads Torque wrench (19-60Nm range needed) Heat gun Brake cleaner Hammer & punch Pliers Large Screwdriver Ratchet with following bits: M15 T50 T45 T40, the longer, the better; the higher quality, the better 5 X BMW supplied bolts, code 33177709205 * Disposable gloves Marker Tools and parts you'd better have available: Thread locker (heat resistant) * Brake grease Open ended M11 spanner Dremel or similar tool with polishing wheel Q-Tips *Please note that BMW recommends replacing brake rotor bolts due to them being "microincapsulated" with thread locker at the factory. You can still reuse your original bolts by cleaning them thoroughly and applying a heat resistant thread locking compound. Start by putting your bike in gear and removing the side cases. Loosen the M15 nut on the Torca clamp holding the silencer. Remove the the T45 bolt holding the silencer to the bracket and rotate the silencer to the front of the bike in clockwise fashion. Put the bike in gear and remove the rear wheel by loosening the five T50 bolts. Remove the safety pin on the brake pad pin, then use the hammer and punch to remove the pin. Remove the two T45 bolts holding the rear brake caliper carrier and remove the rear caliper as a whole. Remove the brake pads. Align the first rotor bolt to the hole on the bottom of the final drive housing. Use the heat gun to heat the bolt on the carrier side. Remove the T40 rotor bolt. Caution! If you feel the bolt is putting on some resistance, immediately cease undoing it and apply more heat. The bolt should come loose with loud clank but with minimal effort. Repeat the two previous steps for all five rotor bolts. Remove the old rotor. Before proceeding any further, check your brake rotor carrier for cracks. If you spot any, contact your BMW dealer as soon as possible. Take the occasion the clean the whole area with brake disc cleaner. Use as much as you need. Before installing the new brake rotor, clean it with a generous amount of brake cleaner. Put on the new rotor and put all the brand new 33177709205 bolts in “finger tight” to align the rotor. If you chose to reuse the old bolts (please read the disclaimer above), use a good quality, heat resistant thread locker before installing them. Once you have aligned the rotor, tighten the bolts: torque is 30Nm. Use the marker to mark bolts as you torque them. And then double check you torqued them all to specs. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner and install the new brake pads. If you want, you may apply a dab of brake grease to the pin. Put in the pin “finger tight”. Now, the following step is very important: if even after pushing the caliper pistons all the way in you cannot slide the caliper on the rotor, chances are the front sliding pin on your caliper is rusted and doesn't slide properly, if at all. At this point, remove the pads and pin and locate the M11 bolt under the caliper. Using the M11 open ended spanner, undo it all the way and separate the caliper from the carrier. If the sliding pin is very rusted, you may need a lot of time to do so. Clean the hole in the carrier with copious amounts of brake cleaner and the Q-Tips. Use your Dremel or similar tool to polish the sliding pin as much as possible. Allow it to cool down and clean it throughly with brake cleaner. After the part is dry, apply a small dab (a teardrop, really) of brake grease to the pin. Reassemble the brake caliper and carrier, install the brake pads and pin and try putting the caliper on the rotor. If it slides properly in, all's good, otherwise chances are you put too much grease on the pin. ** Once the caliper is in place, install the two T45 bolts and torque them to 24Nm. Using the hammer and punch, drive the pin in place and put the retaining pin in place. Pump your rear brake pedal thoroughly. We are almost finished now. Install the rear wheel by aligning it and putting the five T50 bolts in finger tight. Then torque them in criss-cross fashion at 60Nm. Rotate the silencer backwards in counterclockwise fashion and install the T45 bolt on the bracket. Torque it to 19Nm. Align the Torca clamp and tighten the bolt at 55Nm. Reinstall side cases... and you are done. Be careful with braking for the first few miles, then you can treat the whole assembly as a brand new set of brake pads. ** BMW and Brembo supply only a few spare parts for the caliper, none of which goes any way towards fixing this issue. If at next rear pad change you discover the pin has rusted again, you should consider replacing the whole caliper assembly. BMW wants well over $600 for it, but you could get lucky with parts from a breaker's. This particular rear brake caliper is used on all Hexhead and Camhead models bar the R1200S: R1200GS, R1200RT, R1200GS-A, R1200R and R1200ST. Link to comment
lkchris Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Just a couple "technical" comments ... Metric hex nuts are sized by the diameter of the bolt that passes through them, NOT the size of the wrench required. The nut on the torca clamp is M8. In addition the clamp is different on Camheads, and there are in fact two TORX screws. Likewise, metric screws and bolts are described by their shaft diameter and NOT the wrench size or type, and, for example, the wheel bolts are M10 and NOT T50. Professional technical writing almost never provides wrench sizes, assuming the mechanic has a full set of tools. A wrench size table would be one thing to provide. Still a nice write up with great illustrations and I'm probably overly picky. Link to comment
wvpc Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Kakugo, Thank you for the nice DIY rear rotor replacement write-up. I noticed your rotor looked to be in good condition. If it was out of spec, how many kms did you have on it? Why did you replace it? Link to comment
Guest Kakugo Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Kakugo, Thank you for the nice DIY rear rotor replacement write-up. I noticed your rotor looked to be in good condition. If it was out of spec, how many kms did you have on it? Why did you replace it? Yes, it was out of spec. 90000km or so. I noticed my rear brake was "slipping" under heavy breaking, so checked the rotor with an internal micrometer and found it was replacement time. Link to comment
Guest Kakugo Posted October 24, 2014 Share Posted October 24, 2014 Just a couple "technical" comments ... Metric hex nuts are sized by the diameter of the bolt that passes through them, NOT the size of the wrench required. The nut on the torca clamp is M8. In addition the clamp is different on Camheads, and there are in fact two TORX screws. Likewise, metric screws and bolts are described by their shaft diameter and NOT the wrench size or type, and, for example, the wheel bolts are M10 and NOT T50. Professional technical writing almost never provides wrench sizes, assuming the mechanic has a full set of tools. A wrench size table would be one thing to provide. Still a nice write up with great illustrations and I'm probably overly picky. Around here we always refer to tool (head) size, bolt size is only used when buying hardware. Often I forget different places use different conventions: for example Torx heads here are often referred to as French heads, especially by old hands... never mind the fact they were invented by Textron! Link to comment
bobwhi Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 How deep is tire cut ??? To cords ??? Link to comment
bobwhi Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 I need seals for 07R1200RT rear master cyclinder... Avail'bl ??? Link to comment
lawnchairboy Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 What is minimum rotor thickness spec? Link to comment
lkraus Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 2005-2013 Front thickness new 4.5mm minimum 4.0mm Rear disc thickness new 5.0mm minimum 4.5mm Link to comment
lawnchairboy Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Thanks. Got another job... Link to comment
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