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2014 R1200RTW battery maintenance


weston

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Does anyone out there know if the AGM battery would benefit from being on a trickle charger when the bike is not used for weeks at a time?

 

Is so, do you have a brand recommendation, and when charging, must you use the socket on the fairing versus connecting the lead directly to the battery?

 

Based on my reading of the RT owner's manual you should NOT hook a trickle charger up directly to the battery unless it's been removed from the bike.

 

(I have all my other (older) bikes on a Battery Tender with the lead connected directly to the battery terminals.)

 

Thanks for the advice -- in advance!

 

Weston

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Does anyone out there know if the AGM battery would benefit from being on a trickle charger when the bike is not used for weeks at a time?

 

Is so, do you have a brand recommendation, and when charging, must you use the socket on the fairing versus connecting the lead directly to the battery?

 

Based on my reading of the RT owner's manual you should NOT hook a trickle charger up directly to the battery unless it's been removed from the bike.

 

Weston

 

I have my 14RT1200RT connected to a Battery Tender Plus right now. Been doing this for years, I have an Odyssey in my 02RT1150RT going on 6 years. You will need to connect a pig tail direct to the battery.

 

Jay

 

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Yes.

Use of a maintenance charger from new will about double the life of your battery. Won't fix an already poorly maintained one, but great for starting out. I have a overworked Battery Tender Jr. that I've had for years, I rotate it to sometimes seven bikes. It's never unplugged.

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Does anyone out there know if the AGM battery would benefit from being on a trickle charger when the bike is not used for weeks at a time?

 

Is so, do you have a brand recommendation, and when charging, must you use the socket on the fairing versus connecting the lead directly to the battery?

 

Based on my reading of the RT owner's manual you should NOT hook a trickle charger up directly to the battery unless it's been removed from the bike.

 

(I have all my other (older) bikes on a Battery Tender with the lead connected directly to the battery terminals.)

 

Thanks for the advice -- in advance!

 

Weston

 

Yes, you can!

That owner's manual recommendation is just a clever ploy by BMW to entice you to buy their massively overpriced "CAN-BUS Compatible" battery charger.

Local BMW dealer has lots of bikes under charge at all times, and they are all charged by your old fashioned gator clamps connected to battery terminals.

 

I charge the RT battery the same way, and I installed a piggy tail extension on the Honda only because the battery is in an otherwise impossible place. Neither bike has burst in flame so far. :rofl:

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That owner's manual recommendation is just a clever ploy by BMW to entice you to buy their massively overpriced "CAN-BUS Compatible" battery charger.

It's not massively overpriced (at least not here).

In a hobby of mine we use intelligent chargers to charge all kinds of batteries. These chargers are actually above and some well above the BMW charger.

The BMW charger also comes with adapters to make it usable for other batteries (bikes) as well.

I really like the charger as it comes with a Velcro strap so that you can hang the charger on the rear Top Box Carrier and plug it in the rear socket.

During the Lay-up I had it hanging there and a bike cover over the bike.

All I needed to do was lift the back of the rear cover, plug it in and press start.

I gave it a trickle charge every couple of weeks overnight.

 

I do not subscribe to the "permanent hook up", but that is personal preference as I have seen zero evident in my hobby and work that this will prolong the life of any battery, no matter what kind.

A hook up every few weeks if the bike is not in use, is all that is required to top up any self discharge, no matter what kind of battery.

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That owner's manual recommendation is just a clever ploy by BMW to entice you to buy their massively overpriced "CAN-BUS Compatible" battery charger.

It's not massively overpriced (at least not here).

 

240€ vs 100€ for a 7A CTEK (which is pretty damn expensive as far as chargers go: a good one from Bosch, Accumate etc is 70€ tops) here. The CTEK hasn't got "CAN-BUS compatibility" but is a pretty impressive bit of kit and due to massive amperage can also be used on larger car batteries. PLUS, CTEK chargers are Odyssey approved (the only ones we get in Europe). :)

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Morning Weston

 

It really depends on how long the storage & what is running in the background.

 

If your bike has added accessories that have a small patristic draw then a battery tender of some sort can help maintain battery strength.

 

Or if your bike has an alarm system, then again, a battery tender can keep the battery from slowly being depleted from a patristic drain.

 

Even in stock form there is a small but constant patristic drain from the onboard electronics but you are still good for well over a month between starting & riding.

 

If long term storage is anticipated then a good electronic control Battery Tender, or just disconnecting the battery, is probably a good idea.

 

On BMW recommending disconnecting the battery before hooking up a Battery Tender or other battery charger?-- That is basically based on them (BMW) not having any control over what you hook to the battery.

 

Some battery chargers have a De-Sulfation cycle that can go over 15 volts dc. BMW has a 15 volt charging voltage limit & if the charger goes above that it can (not will) damage the onboard electronics.

 

So, you can (and most of us do) hook a compatible Battery Tender to your battery with it still in the bike & hooked up but you MUST pick a suitable Battery Tender that never exceeds 15 volts dc (ever).

 

There are a number of aftermarket Battery Tenders that will meet that under 15 volt charging limit. Deltran makes a number of them so you might call their Tec help line for recommendations for your bike.

 

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Morning Weston

 

It really depends on how long the storage & what is running in the background.

 

If your bike has added accessories that have a small patristic draw then a battery tender of some sort can help maintain battery strength.

 

Or if your bike has an alarm system, then again, a battery tender can keep the battery from slowly being depleted from a patristic drain.

 

Even in stock form there is a small but constant patristic drain from the onboard electronics but you are still good for well over a month between starting & riding.

 

If long term storage is anticipated then a good electronic control Battery Tender, or just disconnecting the battery, is probably a good idea.

 

On BMW recommending disconnecting the battery before hooking up a Battery Tender or other battery charger?-- That is basically based on them (BMW) not having any control over what you hook to the battery.

 

Some battery chargers have a De-Sulfation cycle that can go over 15 volts dc. BMW has a 15 volt charging voltage limit & if the charger goes above that it can (not will) damage the onboard electronics.

 

So, you can (and most of us do) hook a compatible Battery Tender to your battery with it still in the bike & hooked up but you MUST pick a suitable Battery Tender that never exceeds 15 volts dc (ever).

 

There are a number of aftermarket Battery Tenders that will meet that under 15 volt charging limit. Deltran makes a number of them so you might call their Tec help line for recommendations for your bike.

 

 

Dirtrider: Many thanks.

 

Weston

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BMW batteries are of a type called AGM. There have been some reports that some trickle chargers do not put out a high enough voltage to bring the AGM batteries up to full charge. As I recall, batteries may only be brought up to as little as 85% of full charge. If left in this undercharged state for prolonged periods, the batteries will start to develop sulfate deposits that slowly and cumulatively degrade the performance of the battery. The useful life of the battery is also cut short, requiring premature replacement. If you replace with a BMW OEM battery, the costs can be very expensive.

 

The Optimate chargers and other smart chargers detect the type of battery being charged. These chargers output the right voltage and current to fully charge the battery. I bought an Optimate 6 charger, the top of the line for Optimate for about $100. It is a small investment to ensure I get the maximum life from my batteries. It goes through a complete diagnostic evaluation of the battery every time it is connected. Longer term, it goes through a charge cycle every 24 hours.

 

The Optimate 6 does have a desulfate cycle that automatically deploys when a severely depleted battery is detected. Before it enters the desulfate mode, the Optimate 6 checks to determine if the battery is connected to the bike's wiring. If it detects a connection, it will not deploy the desulfate mode. This is done to ensure that that the charger does not send high voltage into the bike's electronic system potentially causing damage. If a battery has been deeply discharged, it should be disconnected and removed from the bike for charging. Deeply discharged batteries can produce excessive heat while being recharged.

 

It is your bike, so do what you are comfortable with. It is universally agreed that it is safe to connect a pigtail directly to your bike for charging. You can use the same pigtail to power heated clothing.

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Plan B: never let the bike sit idle, you won't need to put any kind of charger on it. :grin:

 

mountainman is correct, different battery chemistries (sealed lead-acid, AGM, Li ion, etc.) have different charging requirements both charging voltage vs. maintenance voltage, and charging current they can accept. Be sure whatever charger you select can be used with your battery, whether it auto-senses or you have to set it manually.

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BMW batteries are of a type called AGM. There have been some reports that some trickle chargers do not put out a high enough voltage to bring the AGM batteries up to full charge. As I recall, batteries may only be brought up to as little as 85% of full charge. If left in this undercharged state for prolonged periods, the batteries will start to develop sulfate deposits that slowly and cumulatively degrade the performance of the battery. The useful life of the battery is also cut short, requiring premature replacement. If you replace with a BMW OEM battery, the costs can be very expensive.

 

The Optimate chargers and other smart chargers detect the type of battery being charged. These chargers output the right voltage and current to fully charge the battery. I bought an Optimate 6 charger, the top of the line for Optimate for about $100. It is a small investment to ensure I get the maximum life from my batteries. It goes through a complete diagnostic evaluation of the battery every time it is connected. Longer term, it goes through a charge cycle every 24 hours.

 

The Optimate 6 does have a desulfate cycle that automatically deploys when a severely depleted battery is detected. Before it enters the desulfate mode, the Optimate 6 checks to determine if the battery is connected to the bike's wiring. If it detects a connection, it will not deploy the desulfate mode. This is done to ensure that that the charger does not send high voltage into the bike's electronic system potentially causing damage. If a battery has been deeply discharged, it should be disconnected and removed from the bike for charging. Deeply discharged batteries can produce excessive heat while being recharged.

 

It is your bike, so do what you are comfortable with. It is universally agreed that it is safe to connect a pigtail directly to your bike for charging. You can use the same pigtail to power heated clothing.

 

 

Thanks, mountainman....The Optimate is on order!

Weston

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If I disconnect the battery to install pigtails for my BT, will this harm the bike? , i.e.., will settings be lost on bike computer, readouts, etc?

 

Was wondering also, is there a pictorial that shows how to re-wire the plug on bike directly to battery? Some dealers offer this when buying bike. Are they replacing with a power let?

 

Thanks in advance. Just don't want to mess up a new bike. Was easier on the 1150rt.

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Morning party

 

It won't harm the bike but you will loose your volatile computer leanings.

 

Nothing that it won't re-learn-- see you Riders Manual under BATTERY REPLACE

 

As far as wiring the OEM power outlet to battery direct?-- a lot of us do that.

 

Easiest way is to use a Power-Let kit. Otherwise you will need to find & buy a connector with terminals to fit your stock power outlet (not easy to find) or buy a harness (only) from Power-Let, or cut the end off of you stock harness & use that.

 

Plus the OEM power outlet is only rated at 10 amps (uses very small pins) & even though some run those factory outlets at 15 amps that is pushing it's limits due to the very small terminal pins.

 

If you build you own harness, or add an aftermarket harness, just be sure it is fused with it's own (usually 15 amp) fuse.

 

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WHAT SIZE FUSE SHOULD BE IN THE FUSE CASE OF THE PIGTAIL WIRED TO BATTERY. MINE, FROM A BATTERY TENDER PLUS, HAS A 75AMP FUSE.

 

TOO BIG?

 

ooops...sorry for all caps - just changed.

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If you buy heated clothing,it usually comes with a fused pigtail to hook to the battery. Mine also came with a manual that told me what size fuse to use based on how much heated clothing I was hooking to the pigtail. My pigtail has the heated clothing connector on it. You can buy a short adapter cable from Revzilla and others that plugs into the heated clothing connector and has the standard SAE connector on the other end. The SAE has one male pin and one female pin on it.

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WHAT SIZE FUSE SHOULD BE IN THE FUSE CASE OF THE PIGTAIL WIRED TO BATTERY. MINE, FROM A BATTERY TENDER PLUS, HAS A 75AMP FUSE.

 

TOO BIG?

 

ooops...sorry for all caps - just changed.

 

Afternoon party

 

 

Really depends on the size of the wire & the amp rating of the outlet used.

 

Most aftermarket pig tails & socket kits come with a 15 amp fuse in them.

 

 

 

 

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If anyone else is looking, the Optimate 4 CanBus edition arreives with the correct plug and is ready out of the package to plug into your BMW and charge. No pigtails required. I was down 2 chargers after my son ran over one BT with the tractor and had intended to install a BT plug but the Optimate purchase made this unnecessary.

 

Its longevity remains to be determined. I still have a BT unit over 10 years old which is functioning perfectly maintaining the lawn mower/ Gator and tractor wet batteries.

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  • 1 month later...

My K1200LT lived on a Battery Tender Jr whenever not being ridden. I was able to plug into the riders powerlet plug. It was also an AGM battery. I can't do that with my new @014 R120RT anymore. Canbus I guess. So if I'm reading right, I should be able to attach the pig tails to the battery, reattach everything else and just charge that way? Oh and read the Changing Battery section of my manual.

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Evening Chris

 

Yes, A (FUSED) direct-to-battery pig tail is the easy way & will work good.

 

Even better is to convert your front accessory outlet to (fused) battery direct then you can charge through your accessory outlet as well as run accessories (heated gear/ air pump/etc) that draws over 10 amps.

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Ok, so I'm new to the 2014 R1200RT after coming off a 2002 K1200LT from a much simpler time, before CANBUS.

 

I have had my 600 mile service done and of course the service light was extinguished then. Today I disconnected the battery to attach the leads for my battery tender directly to the battery. My service light came back on. So does anyone know if it came back on solely because the battery had been disconnected and is designed to do that? Everything else seems just fine.

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Mine did the same but after a shutdown and restart all was fine. Was told If the shutdown didn't work you'd have to go into your menu and reset your time and date. Didn't have to do that.

 

Pat

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Well I did several shut downs and restarts with nothing. I went to the menu to change the date and time even though they were correct. I noticed the service light wasn't lit. I don't know if I was impatient earlier of if changing the time and date did it.

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Mine did the same but after a shutdown and restart all was fine. Was told If the shutdown didn't work you'd have to go into your menu and reset your time and date. Didn't have to do that.

 

Pat

Oh and thanks Pat!

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Mine did the same but after a shutdown and restart all was fine. Was told If the shutdown didn't work you'd have to go into your menu and reset your time and date. Didn't have to do that.

 

Pat

Oh and thanks Pat!

 

Thanks enough if it was of any help. ;)

 

Pat

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I don't recall my service light EVER coming on. I did hook up a pigtail to the battery and have had no issues. I also did the 600 mile service myself........but now I keep reading about folks that have their service reminder on and may need to get a GS911 or take to the dealer for reset.

 

Anyone know why mine never went on? Am I not looking in the right place? Read the manual, so I believe I'm checking in the right area.

 

Thanks.

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Enduring the incredible pain and suffering of installing a dedicated battery charging harness is NOT required. :Cool:

Fab a pigtail to plug your tender into one of the power outlets. Plug it in and power up the tender. Turn on the key, and turn it off, the outlet will stay live allowing charging. The relay controlling the outlets will stay closed as long as the tender is plugged in and powered up.

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Enduring the incredible pain and suffering of installing a dedicated battery charging harness is NOT required. :Cool:

Fab a pigtail to plug your tender into one of the power outlets. Plug it in and power up the tender. Turn on the key, and turn it off, the outlet will stay live allowing charging. The relay controlling the outlets will stay closed as long as the tender is plugged in and powered up.

 

Only true if you have a Can Bus friendly tender. My battery Tender Plus I've been using for years won't work unless plugged into a pig tail.

 

Jay

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Enduring the incredible pain and suffering of installing a dedicated battery charging harness is NOT required. :Cool:

Fab a pigtail to plug your tender into one of the power outlets. Plug it in and power up the tender. Turn on the key, and turn it off, the outlet will stay live allowing charging. The relay controlling the outlets will stay closed as long as the tender is plugged in and powered up.

I think that you need a CANBUS friendly charger for this to work. Also, a correction to your procedure, since we are in the wethead section, you do NOT have to power the bike up to hook a compatible charger to the accessory socket! The RTW will wake up and recognize the charger as soon as it is plugged into the socket. BTW, I have been using Battery Doc for a few years now, on my '07, '14, and now my '15 RT. Great little inexpensive charger that works well with CANBUS, even if they don't make that specific claim. One of the pig-tails that come with it will plug right into either the RT socket, or standard cig. lighter socket.

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Enduring the incredible pain and suffering of installing a dedicated battery charging harness is NOT required. :Cool:

Fab a pigtail to plug your tender into one of the power outlets. Plug it in and power up the tender. Turn on the key, and turn it off, the outlet will stay live allowing charging. The relay controlling the outlets will stay closed as long as the tender is plugged in and powered up.

 

Only true if you have a Can Bus friendly tender. My battery Tender Plus I've been using for years won't work unless plugged into a pig tail.

 

Jay

 

I can tell you that it must mean with a Can Bus charger. I had previously seen these tips and tried it with my Battery Tender with the powerlet plug I've been using on my K1200LT by using the always hot plug by the rider's foot. With the '14 RT it was ignition on, plugged in and ignition off. All looked good. Then just as the owner's manual said it would, the outlet shutdown after 15 minutes of the ignition being off.

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