realwlrd Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Anyone have problems starting a K1200? I've noticed this a few times now and it seems to be heat related. The first time was after extended idling in heavy trafiic waiting to get in to a fuel station. After the fill up, the bike would crank and crank but not fire. So I let it sit about five minutes more and tried again and it started right up. The other times have been after "hard riding" (low gear, higher rpm, say 5k-7k) like on the Dragon. Park the bike, chill out for about five or ten minutes, want to get on my way but can't sart the bike - crank and crank but not fire. So I let it sit about five minutes more and tried again and it started right up. The coolant level is at the minimum mark, when cold. Fan seems to operate normally, according to the temp guage. Anyone else experience this? Link to comment
Mr_Ed Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Your problem is that you stopped! But seriously....Haven't experienced it myself but maybe it's due to vapor lock...not sure that makes sense on a fuel injected machine though.... Did you try cycling the bike on and off a time or two to see if re-pressurizing the fuel system helped? With a little luck someone with more of a clue than I have will post something. Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 BMW is supposed to have this problem solved. There is an issue with the ECU and software that can cause the motor to run quite lean at elevated air temperatures and low RPM leading to stumble and a number of dropped K-LT's. Might be a good idea to check with your dealer who will have all the latest advisories and service memos on file. A sharp service manager will know all that stuff by heart and even a not so sharp one can go looking for it. If they don't have a large file of these things ready to hand, run, do not walk, out the door and seek you a new dealer. Link to comment
realwlrd Posted January 30, 2006 Author Share Posted January 30, 2006 Thanks for quick replies. Mr_Ed: It does exhibit symptoms just like vapor lock and that is what has me puzzled since this is a fuel injected motor. Cycling the bike on and off did not help. ShoveIStrokeEd: Everytime this has happened, the ambient air temperature was about 60 degrees (F). So far I have never had even a hint of a stumbling problem at low rpm and high temps. When a I met with the local dealer's service manager I was less than impressed. He had that holier-than-thou attitude which I absolutely detest. Expected me to drop about $600 -$800 for the next interval service. I'm not impressed with the next closest dealer either, after having seen what they do to body work. Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Ambient air temperature is just fine at 60 degrees. The air temperature sensor is in the intake tract right above the engine. It can heat soak easily after a short shutdown and there goes your problem. Link to comment
Bruce C Posted January 31, 2006 Share Posted January 31, 2006 How many miles since the fuel filter has been replaced? It might be time. Bruce C Link to comment
realwlrd Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share Posted January 31, 2006 Thanks folks, I think ShoveIStrokeEd hit it on the head. I can easily see how that would happen. Bruce C, bike has 8,900 miles. Link to comment
MrHondamatic Posted February 1, 2006 Share Posted February 1, 2006 I had the same problem with my (then) new K75 in hot weather. It would even buck and snort after slowing down for an extended period. I took it back to the dealer and they fixed the problem, but would not tell me what they did. They said the fix had not been approved by BMW, so they would not divulge that info. Whatever they did sure fixed the problem. After reading this, I suspect they either insulated or re-located the air sensor for cooler operation. I hope your fix is that easy. Link to comment
realwlrd Posted February 6, 2006 Author Share Posted February 6, 2006 I visited the dealer Saturday and he recommended that I 1.) check the fuel tank vent line that runs on the right side for crimping/obstructions (such as dirt dobbers). 2.) check the vent hole under the gas gap to see if it was rusted over or otherwise blocked. 3.) check/change the fuel filter. Link to comment
MrHondamatic Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 And?????? Inquiring minds want to know, did anything help yet? Link to comment
realwlrd Posted February 9, 2006 Author Share Posted February 9, 2006 Haven't dug into it yet, but will post results here. Link to comment
Red Barchetta Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 Is your side stand up? Or possibly a sidestand switch problem? Link to comment
realwlrd Posted February 13, 2006 Author Share Posted February 13, 2006 Not a side stand or switch problem. Link to comment
realwlrd Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 It was a sidestand "problem" ! Unlike my other bike, one can actually crank (and crank and crank) the BMW engine, in gear, with the clutch in, stand down. It just won't start. I can't even crank the other bike (YZF 600R) like that. That bike does absolutely nothing, in that case. Link to comment
Carnadero Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 It was a sidestand "problem" ! Unlike my other bike, one can actually crank (and crank and crank) the BMW engine, in gear, with the clutch in, stand down. It just won't start. Note too, that if the engine is running, and the sidestand is still deployed, the engine will stop immediately when the clutch is squeezed and the transmission dropped into gear from neutral. Link to comment
realwlrd Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 Note too, that if the engine is running, and the sidestand is still deployed, the engine will stop immediately when the clutch is squeezed and the transmission dropped into gear from neutral. I have noticed that. It was the ability to actually crank the engine that had me fooled Link to comment
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