bmweerman Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 Well it's official...I've changed my name to Marathon Man...might as well flow with what comes your way These clutch plates do not seem warped or contaiminated but they sure look like they need a dermatoligist! But the surface is very smooth to the touch. What do you experts think?!?! If this bike ever runs right again I promise to be so busy riding it I won't post for a month!!! TIA as always MM Link to comment
Ken H. Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 It's normal. Every one I've seen look like that and they all performed flawlessly when reassembled with new clutch friction plates. Link to comment
SWB Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 They look almost scalloped. Are they new? I don't see lots of oil or grease on them. I'd start by getting a piece of marble (which I just happen to have in the kitchen, if my wife doesn't mind me using her chopping stone) and fine grit emery paper, and cleaning up the disks. If there is surface contamination, that should clean it up. Then I'd use brake fluid to clean off any residue. (Note: I've used this and seen this recommendation for decontaminating/degreasing other parts; double check if it's ok to use with clutch disks with some others on the board before you go on my advise alone.) Did you see any oil leakage from the tranny, or grease on parts near the spline? Did you adjust the clutch at the motor, or just using the handlebar adjusting screw? Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 21, 2006 Author Share Posted January 21, 2006 Did you see any oil leakage from the tranny, or grease on parts near the spline? None...clean!! Very Clean Did you adjust the clutch at the motor, or just using the handlebar adjusting screw? Both I'll try your other ideas too...really want this to work when I put it back together this time!! Thanks! Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 I really don't see any problems with them as they are. The discoloration is just from a little localized heating. No real grooves apparant, you should be good to go just putting them back in. Link to comment
SWB Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 I'll try your other ideas too...really want this to work when I put it back together this time!! Me too. Then I can buy your gas and beer and invite you to the San Diego area Tech Daze, so you can help me (or laugh at me) while I R&R my clutch. Did you replace the diaphragm spring when you replaced the friction plate? I always replace the springs when I R&R a conventional clutch on my dirt bikes (cheap insurance to ensure a trouble free clutch). Someone else recommended replacing the retaining bolts as well, which sounds like a good idea. Other than that, I'd go back to the drawing board. I'd go on to A&S BMW's site, print out the part drawings, and review every part in the drawings against your bike for inventory and fit. Make sure you didn't leave anything "obvious" (to everyone except me and you) out during reassembly. Good luck. Link to comment
SWB Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 Page 21.9 in the manual I sent to you (i.e. the link I referenced) has BMW's install procedures. I assume that you followed your after-market manual and did all of these things, but it wouldn't hurt to review the manual(s) one more time. Example: Installing clutch Caution: Always use new bolts for housing and cover. • Install clutch housing with mark (2) aligned with crankshaft mark (2). • Lock the clutch housing with retaining device (1), BMW No. 11 5 640. • Insert all screws by hand and tighten down. Offset the color marks on the clutch housing, driven plate and housing cover through 120° in each case. Lubrication points: Splines on clutch plate and input shaft Diaphragm spring contact surface at clutch housing Diaphragm spring contact surface at driven plate ... & etc. I have no idea what most of this means, but it sure sounds important. Link to comment
bmwmick Posted January 23, 2006 Share Posted January 23, 2006 Lay a straight edge across the surfaces. If they are not worn, go back to your original post and read the de-glazing instructions I sent you . Are you reinstalling the friction disc the correct way? I have never seen this job go so wrong in so many ways. Mick Link to comment
chrisx Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 localized heating like that can cause annealing "dislocations" between the surface and the substrate. in bas cases the surface will end up spalling. you could probably reuse it, but you may also be able to get it ground. if it were me i'd replace it or get it ground. never been into a bmw'r clutch yet but done a ton of car clutches. it is not worth the risk to have to go back in for a 40$ machine shop job. but that is just me. in any case you'll feel better if you do. if you want to clean it up you may be able to find a piece of quartz glass from a halogen worklight for the emery backing. those are usually pretty square. lots of different options there, giving it a good scuffing is not a bad idea, a regrind will come with radially oriented surface pattern that will wear off as it reseats. Link to comment
chopperdan Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 Could I get a SITREP? Did you replace just the clutch disk? Is that a new pressure plate or the old one? If there is surface contamination, that should clean it up. Then I'd use brake fluid to clean off any residue Never use brake fluid on a clutch disk To clean your parts you should use Break cleaner or denatured alcohol. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 24, 2006 Author Share Posted January 24, 2006 Could I get a SITREP? Did you replace just the clutch disk? Is that a new pressure plate or the old one? If there is surface contamination, that should clean it up. Then I'd use brake fluid to clean off any residue Never use brake fluid on a clutch disk To clean your parts you should use Break cleaner or denatured alcohol. Well...Dan and others...The SITREP is that, after going back in and looking at some schematics kindly provided here, it turns out that I did IN FACT put the friction disk in backwards!! Fixed that... Was installing final drive on machine ONE MORE TIME...and then... the inner part of the outside bearing fell out and when I stuck it back in the outer race of the bearing fell apart. Sooooooooooooo.....ordered that part! Should be here today. I LOVE my RT but if this doesn't work....anybody know where I can get a good deal on a Honda? Thanks everybody MM Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.