Valve check/Adjust help?

[hngininthr]

Would appreciate any advice on how to get to the bolt that turns the flywheel, and exactly where is the sight window to the TDC indicator on the flywheel.

 

I checked valves by removing spark plugs to feel for TDC and turning the drive wheel in 6th gear.

 

It was my first attempt at this and the valves seemed to be in spec although I wasn't too sure I was exactly on TDC.

 

I've got the old instructions for checking valves on the oilheads, but my new R1200ST seems slightly different.

 

Do you have to remove the generator cover to get to the bolt to rotate the flywheel? The top screws for the cover are almost inaccessible.

 

Is the sight window behind that plastic cover above the right side throttle? Looks like the same cover that's over the swing arm bearing.

[CMWingfield]

Hi,

There is no site window on the new R1200 engine. You access the bolt the same way as before, by removing the Alternator Belt cover. I can't speak for the ability to access your bike, but I'm sure it can be done. On my R1150RT I used the method you are alluding to, but with the R1200GS, I've used the chop stick in the spark plug hole and bumped the rear wheel in sixth gear. It is actually easier than the site window method IMHO. There is a link on this site that explains where to find the little arrow on the cam chain sprocket, and when it sticks straight out you are at TDC. Actually, if you watch the chop stick you can find TDC easy, and by watching the valves you can see them opening up. It ain't rocket science! If I can do anyone can!!

 

Good luck,

Mike

[hngininthr]

Mike,

Thanks for the reply. I'll go with your method.

[waypointX]

Hi all,

 

Could someone confirm the valve clearances for the R12RT for me? I'm on the road and need to do an adjustment but don't have the info handy. I'm used to doing them on the 1150 so I don't need procedure info, I just want to make sure I don't adjust them to the wrong values.

 

Thanks.

[David]

Could someone confirm the valve clearances for the R12RT for me? I'm on the road and need to do an adjustment but don't have the info handy. I'm used to doing them on the 1150 so I don't need procedure info, I just want to make sure I don't adjust them to the wrong values.

 

I believe they are .15mm for intake and .30mm for exhaust. There should be a placard under your seat to confirm this.

[Jake]

[Mainuh]

Would appreciate any advice on how to get to the bolt that turns the flywheel, and exactly where is the sight window to the TDC indicator on the flywheel.

 

The dealer I bought my R12RT at sponsored a nice tech day last weekend and they did show a couple different methods of locating TDC. The one preferred by the mechanic was a BMW tool which is inserted in a small window aft of the head on the starboard (right) side. They call it a "locating pin" in Rep Rom (No. 11 2 650). "Engage the highest gear and turn the rear wheel until the piston of the cylinder in question is at firing TDC (TDC = top dead centre). The inlet and exhaust valves in the cylinder concerned are closed; those of the other cylinder are at overlap."

 

You can make sure the cylinder is at TDC by inserting locating pin (No. 11 2 650) .

 

Also on the valves, David is correct (from Rep Rom again):

Valve clearance, inlet valve engine cold 0.15 mm

Valve clearance, exhaust valve engine cold 0.30 mm

[ShovelStrokeEd]

No need to get all anal about exact TDC either. The base circle of the cam, which is when the valve has maximum clearance, accounts for quite a few crankshaft degrees of rotation.

 

Being lazy and all that, I will frequently adjust the intakes when the exhausts just crack open and the exhausts just before the intakes close. Saves all that hunting and peeking. Used to go through all the valves on a V8 engine with just 4 90 degree turns of the crankshaft. Couldn't remember, for the life of me, the order we did it in.

[waypointX]

I believe they are .15mm for intake and .30mm for exhaust. There should be a placard under your seat to confirm this.

 

Thanks, especially for pointing out that placard I had never noticed. This is my first time doing the RT myself, it was like a whole new bike afterwards.

 

I've been letting dealers do it because I've mostly been on the road with it so far. Any ideas how to do this kind of work when on the road?

[Marty Hill]

I carry the proper tools and do most of my service on the road.

[Jim VonBaden]

From a previous post!

 

Today I did the 6K on my not so new 12GS. It was almost exactly the same as my previous 11GS and 11RS, so there were no real surprises.

 

I am using a modified Anton Method, created by Shane.

 

The cover came off the same as the 11GS, and easily cleared the H&B crash bars.

 

However, the front engine cover would not even come close to coming off with the crash bars, so I pulled the plugs and rotated the engine using the rear wheel with the trans in 6th gear.

 

The right side of the 12GS has a cam arrow like on the R11 series, and it worked the same way. Have the arrow point straight out, and check the valves to make sure both intake and exhaust are loose. If not, rotate the engine so the arrow comes around again.

 

The left side had this attachment to the cam, I think it was some sort of position sensor since wires were attached to the cam cover. Hard to see, but there is a hole in it that lines up straight out when the cylinder is at TDC.

 

If you look back over on the right side, this is what you see when the left is at TDC, if the valves aren't loose to the touch, rotate the engine so the crank rotates 360 degrees.

 

Insert the feeler gages, same as the 11/1150 series, .30mm on the exhaust, and .15 mm on the intake.

 

Intake side.

 

The exhaust side looks similar. Make sure you have both sides in, and all 4 valves covered when you get set to adjust the valves.

 

As you can see, the valves are parallell enough that no significant stress is placed on the feeler gages, and an acurate measurement is easily achieved.

 

First loosen the locking nuts, then insert the 3mm allen wrench and back off the adjustment approximately 1/4 turn. Ensure the allen wrench is near the top of a gravity stroke, then let it go. Gravity and resistance will stop it with the right amount of pressure on the valve.

 

 

Tighten the lock nut without disturbing the position of the allen wrench. I hold it in place and tighten the locking nut.

 

Pull from the center, and if the resistance is even, you have the adjusted correctly. There should be some slight resistance, but it should be easy to move the feeler gages.

 

Rotate the engine and do the other side.

 

I changed the oil and filter, warmed up the bike, and did a TB sync of just just the cables, since the idle is done automatically.

 

I also checked all the nuts and bolts, and made a few adjustments. Everything looked good, and the bikes runs as good as ever.

 

One note though, two of the exhaust valves were very tight, probably from the dealer doing the 600. Glad all my future service will be from me only! Except warranty repairs of course.

 

Jim

[steveknapp]

Being lazy and all that, I will frequently adjust the intakes when the exhausts just crack open and the exhausts just before the intakes close. Saves all that hunting and peeking. Used to go through all the valves on a V8 engine with just 4 90 degree turns of the crankshaft. Couldn't remember, for the life of me, the order we did it in.

 

Paul posted his method quite some time ago, and it's so easy I think it deserves repeating.

 

Take both valve covers off.

Turn the wheel.

Watch the valves. When one set is all the way open, adjust the same valves on the OTHER SIDE.

Keep turning the wheel and repeat.