Yet another clutch and brake question...(even though your probably sick of this)

[bmweerman]

Hey guys!

 

Finally got the bike back together after the epic spline lube/clutch disk replacement. With great anticipation went for my first ride this morning. Clutch is slippy as hell in all gears...hardly any torque at all!! Spent the last 4 hours adjusting the clutch to spec over and over to no avail.

 

And, my rear brake caliper still rides funny even though I just put a brand new disk on!?!?!

 

Ummmmm anybody had this problem before or am I just a DA?

 

As always

 

TIA!!

 

Cameron

[Ino]

cameron

Did you clean(degrease) the pressure plates and wash your hands before reassembly?

With ABS the brakes need to be power bled, fluid forced thru the system from the master cylinder back.

hope this helps

Ino

[bigboy]

HI CAMERON

sounds like an oily pressure plate to me , one thought did you change any seals while the trans was out of the bike.

 

Is the rear brake pedal pulsating when depressed if it is you have a mother of an air lock.

 

hope you get it sorted soon

derek

[Edgar]

Can you verify that the clutch has been adjusted and has 10mm free play at the handlebar and give feedback as to clutch feel when you pull the lever. If the clutch plate is clean and new it's hard to speculate what's wrong. It is possible to install the clutch plate backward. This can be verified through the clutch adjustment, and strange lever pull.

[bmweerman]

I can verify 10mm distance between locking nut and adjuster on clutch cable and 5mm freeplay at handlebar...per BMW specs ...unless you know something I don't (which wouldn't be hard )

[bmweerman]

and strange lever pull.

 

Hmmm..feels normal...but maybe stiffer than it used to.

 

(The same but different right!? )

[Wooster]

Say bmweerman,

 

I've followed your repair saga with great interest and a little awe (aw, I'd never do that !); sounds like oil contaminated clutch or preasure plate, getting some forward motion yet too many revs when twisting the grip.

 

Seriously wishing for happy ending to this tale, Wooster (being beerman, we may be related)

[russell_bynum]

Slipping clutch...assuming you've got the correct free-play (which it sounds like you do), that's bad. Weak diaphragm spring, or (more likely) oil-contaminated clutch plates. Is there any chance that you damaged one of the seals while you were reassembling the thing? The ones that could cause you trouble are the engine's rear main seal, and the front and rear seals on the transmission input shaft.

 

Regarding the brakes...what do you mean when you say the "Caliper still rides funny"?

[Stan Walker]

This is so sad.....

 

Clutch is slippy as hell in all gears

 

By this do you mean that the engine rev's up to a high RPM but the bike barely moves?

 

----------------------

 

What did you lube the splines with, how did you apply it, and how much did you use?

 

Did you lube any other parts in the clutch area?

 

Stan

[DavidEBSmith]

I can verify 10mm distance between locking nut and adjuster on clutch cable and 5mm freeplay at handlebar...per BMW specs

 

Actually, BMW specs are 12mm between locking nut and adjuster and 7mm freeplay at handlebar. That's not causing your current problem, but just in case anybody else sees this, they should use the right numbers, and once you get your bike sorted out, having the proper freeplay should prolong the time before you have to go in there again.

[bmweerman]

By this do you mean that the engine rev's up to a high RPM but the bike barely moves?

 

YES!

 

What did you lube the splines with, how did you apply it, and how much did you use?

 

Honda moly 60 paste

 

with my finger

 

a lot

 

lubed the throwout rod

 

------------------------------------------------

 

thanks for hanging in with me on this!!!!!!!!

[bmweerman]

Slipping clutch...assuming you've got the correct free-play (which it sounds like you do), that's bad. Weak diaphragm spring, or (more likely) oil-contaminated clutch plates. Is there any chance that you damaged one of the seals while you were reassembling the thing? The ones that could cause you trouble are the engine's rear main seal, and the front and rear seals on the transmission input shaft.

 

 

I don't think so! But it looks like I'm going to get to take it apart and find out, huh?

 

Regarding the brakes...what do you mean when you say the "Caliper still rides funny"?

 

like the rotors bent

[bmweerman]

Say bmweerman,

 

I've followed your repair saga with great interest and a little awe (aw, I'd never do that !); sounds like oil contaminated clutch or preasure plate, getting some forward motion yet too many revs when twisting the grip.

 

Seriously wishing for happy ending to this tale, Wooster (being beerman, we may be related)

 

TY!!

[bmweerman]

I can verify 10mm distance between locking nut and adjuster on clutch cable and 5mm freeplay at handlebar...per BMW specs

 

Actually, BMW specs are 12mm between locking nut and adjuster and 7mm freeplay at handlebar. That's not causing your current problem, but just in case anybody else sees this, they should use the right numbers, and once you get your bike sorted out, having the proper freeplay should prolong the time before you have to go in there again.

 

the haynes manual says otherwise...but where did those specs come from?

 

ty

[cgdR]

Honda moly 60 paste/with my finger/a lot

Oops!! I think I found the problem... You mean a lot more than this?

P.S. That yellow thing in your hand is not a huge grease gun, is it?

[Ken H.]

Honda moly 60 paste

 

with my finger

 

a lot

 

lubed the throwout rod

Uh-oh, correct should have been:

 

Honda moly 60 paste

 

with my finger

 

a little tiny bit

 

didn't lubed the throwout rod

 

The two things that occur to me, both mentioned - lube contaminated plates, or plate ass'y in backward.

[SWB]

I looked through a bunch of posts, and couldn't find the reference. I thought another member had a problem like this, and the solution was a clutch adjustment somewhere other than the handlebar. The person said something like "with all the wear, I forgot that the new clutch plate was much larger than the worn one I removed. I forgot to make the second adjustment..." etc.. I looked at the manual, and didn't see anything about a secondary adjustment screw (like I have on older dirt bikes). I do see this:

 

 

"[GS] If necessary, slacken off hydraulic spring

adjuster with 6 mm Allen key,BMW No. 31 5 600.

• [RT] Slacken off the power socket holder.

• Using socket wrench, BMW No. 21 3 610,

slacken off locknut (1) at adjusting screw (2) on

the clutch release lever/gearbox."

 

So, maybe you need to slacken off the hydraulic spring adjuster to compensate for the size of the new clutch disk?

 

Otherwise, maybe you got overeager, put too much lube on the clutch spline, and it contaiminated the clutch friction disk.

[SWB]

I can verify 10mm distance between locking nut and adjuster on clutch cable and 5mm freeplay at handlebar...per BMW specs

 

Actually, BMW specs are 12mm between locking nut and adjuster and 7mm freeplay at handlebar. That's not causing your current problem, but just in case anybody else sees this, they should use the right numbers, and once you get your bike sorted out, having the proper freeplay should prolong the time before you have to go in there again.

 

the haynes manual says otherwise...but where did those specs come from?

 

ty

 

BMW R1100 manual I have says 12mm/7mm.

[bmweerman]

Honda moly 60 paste/with my finger/a lot

Oops!! I think I found the problem... You mean a lot more than this?

 

P.S. That yellow thing in your hand is not a huge grease gun, is it?

 

 

Yeah! a lot more than that! However clutch assembly now sitting in my lap and it is NOT contaminated!! Hmmmmm!!???

 

 

HE HE no...that's my TORCH!~!!!

 

Backwards eh....thanks!

[bmweerman]

Re: Yet another clutch and brake question...(even though your probably sick of this) [Re: bmweerman]

#629694 - 19/01/06 09:08 PM Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply

 

 

 

 

Quote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Honda moly 60 paste

 

with my finger

 

a lot

 

lubed the throwout rod

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Uh-oh, correct should have been:

 

Honda moly 60 paste

 

with my finger

 

a little tiny bit

 

didn't lubed the throwout rod

 

The two things that occur to me, both mentioned - lube contaminated plates, or plate ass'y in backward.

 

 

Doesn't look or feel contaminated!?

 

All in pieces on the floor again so here's my chance to do it right! I'll check my pix to see if it's backwards.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Thanks

 

Cameron

[bigboy]

hi cameron

check to see if you have a warped clutch plate , also it could be a week or broken diaphram spring.

GOOD LUCK

DEREK

[Edgar]

Marathon Man, If the clutch plate is dry, and there is nothing fouling the plate then the next 2 candidates to check are the orientation of the plate and the spring. Check carefully with your book in hand the orientation of the plate on the bike and compare that with a picture. As I said before it’s not difficult to reverse the orientation (Don’t ask me how I know). If the plate is slipping then there is not enough pressure on the 4 parts of the clutch. The next candidate is the spring itself. Did you measure the thickness of the original clutch that you removed? Is it possible that the plate is marginally OK and the problem was the combination of a weak spring and the old plate? Feedback in that area would be helpful. You also mentioned that the clutch lever felt a little stiffer. Based on the pictures that you took, a lubed spline would have felt smooth, consistent, and slightly lighter in the pull.

[Rob L]

Did you receive the right parts when you purchased the clutch? The assembly has been updated over the years and maybe you got a mix of incompatible parts?

Just something to check before you go to the trouble of reassembling

[bmweerman]

Hmmmmm...Ok...

 

That's the project for 2 nite...

 

Thanks!! and I'll get back to you

 

Marathon Man