BigArn Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Need to locate the subject on replacing the fuel filter. Could somebody please point me in the right direction [edit: gave it a meaningful title] Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Here's one. http://ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11-fuel-filter-change.shtml Link to comment
BigArn Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 I thought there was a thread on it on this site with pictures and all. Anybody??? Link to comment
MCDenny Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Mark, I just changed mine for the first time, used the IBMWR.ORG write up. FWIW, I was not able to get the vent hoses off to pull the unit completely out of the tank but was able to change the filter with it "half way" out. IBMWR.ORG also has a write up on relocating the filter to the outside so its not such a PIA to change in the future. With one month of RT ownership and just having finished the major service inc'l alternator belt I have to say the BMW engineers didn't seem to give much thought to facilitating service work. Remove and partially disassemble the tank to change fuel filter? Remove fairing to service battery? Special spark plug socket? Messy trans oil drain? Oil filter access? Sorry for hijacked thread but it seems like a little more consideration paid to service at the design stage could reduce the cost of ownership. Link to comment
ShovelStrokeEd Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Denny and Mark, FYI, You can by a tool from KD Tools, Chevy door handle tool, that makes removing the vent and even the fuel lines a snap. Kind of a bent, forked, scraper looking thing. Works perfect, set the nose just behind the line and use the thing as a lever to pry the line off. With this tool, I am able to reuse all the stock clamps as well, just give them a little pinch with a pair of dulled right angle nippers. The lines come off even with the clamps tight, the bulge in the fitting expands the clamp just enough. On reassembly, just wet the inside of the hose with a little gas or even brake cleaner and push like you hate it from 4th grade. Link to comment
AviP Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 With one month of RT ownership and just having finished the major service inc'l alternator belt I have to say the BMW engineers didn't seem to give much thought to facilitating service work. Remove and partially disassemble the tank to change fuel filter? Remove fairing to service battery? Special spark plug socket? Messy trans oil drain? Oil filter access? Sorry for hijacked thread but it seems like a little more consideration paid to service at the design stage could reduce the cost of ownership. It's called German engineering! Everything on this bike is designed to cause more expense by means of time. OTOH, spark plug and head access are much simpler in the boxer design. But overall, it takes me 1/4th of the time to service my R1 over my RT. Yamaha YZF-Rs and Suzuki GSX-Rs are the pinnacle of service speed. Kawasaki Ninjas are a PITA. I don't know much about Honda CBRs. IMHO, as long as BMW continues to build the RT as an update to the previous model, nothing will change. They need to hire some Japs and work on it from the ground up. Link to comment
Jim VonBaden Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 It's called German engineering! Everything on this bike is designed to cause more expense by means of time. OTOH, spark plug and head access are much simpler in the boxer design. But overall, it takes me 1/4th of the time to service my R1 over my RT. .... You can do a 6K service on your R1 in 15 minutes? It only takes an hour to do a 6K on the R-series bikes, maybe 1.5 hours if you have an RT! 12K will take a bit longer, but it still wouldn't be more than a couple hours. 24K, with belt and fuel filter and brake fluid flush takes a solid 3 hours, but still not at all bad IMHO! Jim Link to comment
AviP Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 It's called German engineering! Everything on this bike is designed to cause more expense by means of time. OTOH, spark plug and head access are much simpler in the boxer design. But overall, it takes me 1/4th of the time to service my R1 over my RT. .... You can do a 6K service on your R1 in 15 minutes? It only takes an hour to do a 6K on the R-series bikes, maybe 1.5 hours if you have an RT! 12K will take a bit longer, but it still wouldn't be more than a couple hours. 24K, with belt and fuel filter and brake fluid flush takes a solid 3 hours, but still not at all bad IMHO! Jim Assuming your name is German, I wasn't insulting you. It takes me less than 1.5 hours for a 6K on the RT. But then I wasn't talking 6K. There are 3 (oil) fluids on the RT v/s 1 on the R1 and 2 heads v/s 1. On the positive side there's 2 cylinders v/s 4 and no chain to tension. Negatively, there's that darn fuel filter and the obvious 18(?) screws v/s 7(?) per fairing with frigging stupid sizing. And while I might have exaggerated the time as a 1/4 of the R1, it still is well below 1/2 that of the RT. To put it another way, the R1 seems a pleasure to work on while the RT seems a pain. It always feels worse than it is because I live in an high-rise apartment complex and it takes me about 1/8th of a mile to get to my underground common parking lot. So if I need something (tools, supplies, etc), I have to close shop and hike a 1/4 mile round-trip. Given the extra time servicing the RT, I do end up with more than one of those trips. A simple task of battery removal for winter is about 2 minutes on the R1 v/s 15 on the RT. YMMV. Link to comment
mikewarax Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Avi, How long does it take you to check and adjust the valve clearance on the R1 ? Mike Link to comment
Turbodog Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Good luck with that job Mark. That one is a real PITA. I used the IBMWR instructions and they worked for me. I didn't have enough slack in the lines to be able to change the filter without removing the whole assembly. That's probably true for most owners. Do be carefull with the sending unit when you pull it out, and if you can't or don't want to use the stock pinched-on clamps, you can use screw-type fuel injection system clamps to put things back together. Do not use the regular worm gear type hose clamps. Link to comment
PETDOC Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Mark-check out these 2 threads as they may save you some hassels. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70274&highlight=fuel+filter http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8935&page=1&pp=15 Link to comment
mountainred Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 Remember that the new fuel filter DOES NOT come with clamps or the large cover O-ring that might need replacing due to swelling. You have to ask for those extra parts. Most dealerships love to do this kind of "in your wallet" jobs. Link to comment
KMG_365 Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 Mark, Well the pictures are here , but I don't see the write up anywhere. Either it got deleted in the two year auto-deletion scheme, or . . . I never got around to posting it in the first place! Link to comment
philbytx Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 Ed and others.. Is this the tool to which you refer to remove the hoses/clamps??? Door handle tool?? Also, I located an Oetiker clamp tool available on the Internet for $16.50 plus shipping. I read on ADVRider that KD Tools USED to have a crimp clamp tool but they are no longer available. This one LOOKS like it fits the bill but is anyone able to give me the nod on this one??? Oetiker Clamp tool Thanks folks..... Link to comment
BMWRich58 Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 Ed and others.. Also, I located an Oetiker clamp tool available on the Internet for $16.50 plus shipping. I read on ADVRider that KD Tools USED to have a crimp clamp tool but they are no longer available. This one LOOKS like it fits the bill but is anyone able to give me the nod on this one??? Oetiker Clamp tool Thanks folks..... Very similar to what I'ved used in the past. Also this tool of mine was used to pull "horse shoe nails",and is now also used on the clamps for my underground sprinkling system. Link to comment
mikewarax Posted February 9, 2006 Share Posted February 9, 2006 I think ed is talking about something like this tool. Mike Link to comment
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