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Drive shaft/swing arm surprise


Bernie

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As part of my 6 K service I decided that after almost 130,000 miles, I should replace my drive shaft before something happens. So after I adjusted my valves and changed the air filter, I removed the rear wheel, muffler and brake caliper for the rear wheel.

As I lowered the rear drive unit, to drain the gear oil, I found clear liquid (water) sitting in the bottom rear of the swing arm, as I have the last three times I have done this procedure. As the oil was draining, I tried to swivel the rear u-joint and to my surprise, I found that the pivot bearings, closest to the drive shaft where partly seized.

As I tried to remove the swing arm pivot studs, I noticed that either the stud had been over tighten at the factory or there was something else wrong. Once the swing arm was removed, I also removed the drive shaft from the gearbox outlet spline. The pivot bearings on that side of the drive shaft had the same problem. The bearing in the fork was fine, but the bearings on the shaft side were also partly seized.

The swing arm bearings were very loose and I was barely able to turn them. I guess it is time for some new ones. As for now the reason for the water in the bottom of the rear swing arm is unexplained. I believe it may be entering through the swing arm bearings. The front part of the swing arm had lots of grease and black stuff, while the rear was nice and clean.

So now it is time to order some new swing arm bearings,before I can reassembly the bike and install the new drive shaft.

 

Drive shaft and swing arm pictures

 

 

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I know I can get it rebuilt, but I didn't want the down time, so I decided to replace the drive shaft and have this one rebuilt for future use. At the moment I think this maybe part of the 60K service, to be on the safe side.

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Guest Kakugo

Two quick things.

 

First the water may have entered through the final drive boot. That's the usual route, or at least the one that gets usually blamed for these mishaps.

 

Second, the RT uses exactly the same swingarm bearings as the old Goldwing 1500 so you may want to go down that route, as Honda OE bearings are usually higher quality than BMW.

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Only trouble with having the u joints replaced with serviceable ones is the recommendation of grease every 10000 miles. That's ok on a gs but pain in the ass on a rt

Edited by mwood7800
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As I lowered the rear drive unit, to drain the gear oil, I found clear liquid (water) sitting in the bottom rear of the swing arm, as I have the last three times I have done this procedure
I had that happen to me the last time I did a major on mine. I expect the swingarm boot wasn't properly clipped in place - it's tricky and can seem to be in there right but if you don't feel the click it may not be. I also used a marine grease on the housing and boot to make sure that was waterproof. (Used Moly 60 paste on the splines inside as recommended by BMW & others here on the board.)
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I know I can get it rebuilt, but I didn't want the down time, so I decided to replace the drive shaft and have this one rebuilt for future use. At the moment I think this maybe part of the 60K service, to be on the safe side.

 

I've never heard of a 60K mile service requirement for the drive shaft. The only schedules I am familiar with are the BMW 6K, 12K, and annual schedules. Where does BMW recommend rebuilding the drive shaft at 60K miles?

 

My 2005 RT is heading north of 70K miles, and I do a minimal inspection of the rear end of the drive shaft when I drop the final drive to service it at the 12K mile checks. I haven't seen any problems, water or otherwise.

 

I would expect to replace the final drive and swing arm bearings when I replace the clutch or (if necessary) R&R the transmission. So far, I've had no problems thus far (knocking on wood...).

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

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I know I can get it rebuilt, but I didn't want the down time, so I decided to replace the drive shaft and have this one rebuilt for future use. At the moment I think this maybe part of the 60K service, to be on the safe side.

 

I've never heard of a 60K mile service requirement for the drive shaft. The only schedules I am familiar with are the BMW 6K, 12K, and annual schedules. Where does BMW recommend rebuilding the drive shaft at 60K miles?

 

My 2005 RT is heading north of 70K miles, and I do a minimal inspection of the rear end of the drive shaft when I drop the final drive to service it at the 12K mile checks. I haven't seen any problems, water or otherwise.

 

I would expect to replace the final drive and swing arm bearings when I replace the clutch or (if necessary) R&R the transmission. So far, I've had no problems thus far (knocking on wood...).

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

 

I wonder what the reliability with shaft drives on other makes is? Do GW and ST owners have issues? FJR or C14 owners? Shaft drive is a pretty mature technology.

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Guest Kakugo
I know I can get it rebuilt, but I didn't want the down time, so I decided to replace the drive shaft and have this one rebuilt for future use. At the moment I think this maybe part of the 60K service, to be on the safe side.

 

I've never heard of a 60K mile service requirement for the drive shaft. The only schedules I am familiar with are the BMW 6K, 12K, and annual schedules. Where does BMW recommend rebuilding the drive shaft at 60K miles?

 

My 2005 RT is heading north of 70K miles, and I do a minimal inspection of the rear end of the drive shaft when I drop the final drive to service it at the 12K mile checks. I haven't seen any problems, water or otherwise.

 

I would expect to replace the final drive and swing arm bearings when I replace the clutch or (if necessary) R&R the transmission. So far, I've had no problems thus far (knocking on wood...).

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

 

I wonder what the reliability with shaft drives on other makes is? Do GW and ST owners have issues? FJR or C14 owners? Shaft drive is a pretty mature technology.

 

From personal experience I can say the shaft drive on early C14's was quite prone to "grenading". There was an "inspect and recall" campaign on 2008 and 2009 C14's which saw many bikes getting a new final drive (not to mention the rear wheel bearings were a complete disgrace being way undersized for a 600+ lbs bike). Cannot comment on newer bikes because there are so few around here.

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I know I can get it rebuilt, but I didn't want the down time, so I decided to replace the drive shaft and have this one rebuilt for future use. At the moment I think this maybe part of the 60K service, to be on the safe side.

 

I've never heard of a 60K mile service requirement for the drive shaft. The only schedules I am familiar with are the BMW 6K, 12K, and annual schedules. Where does BMW recommend rebuilding the drive shaft at 60K miles?

 

My 2005 RT is heading north of 70K miles, and I do a minimal inspection of the rear end of the drive shaft when I drop the final drive to service it at the 12K mile checks. I haven't seen any problems, water or otherwise.

 

I would expect to replace the final drive and swing arm bearings when I replace the clutch or (if necessary) R&R the transmission. So far, I've had no problems thus far (knocking on wood...).

 

Thanks,

 

Scott

 

I wonder what the reliability with shaft drives on other makes is? Do GW and ST owners have issues? FJR or C14 owners? Shaft drive is a pretty mature technology.

 

From personal experience I can say the shaft drive on early C14's was quite prone to "grenading". There was an "inspect and recall" campaign on 2008 and 2009 C14's which saw many bikes getting a new final drive (not to mention the rear wheel bearings were a complete disgrace being way undersized for a 600+ lbs bike). Cannot comment on newer bikes because there are so few around here.

 

I am surprised as Kawasaki usually makes things heavy duty. The thing is, that type of Kawasaki engine usually is chain drive.

 

I've never heard of shaft or FD problems on the other bikes. No problems with switch gear or fuel strips either. :)

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Guest Kakugo

I am surprised as Kawasaki usually makes things heavy duty. The thing is, that type of Kawasaki engine usually is chain drive.

 

I've never heard of shaft or FD problems on the other bikes. No problems with switch gear or fuel strips either. :)

 

I also had a handlebar switch fail on a Honda. I had my brother (a certified computer tech) fix it and after doing the job he said "Never again, please!". :dopeslap:

 

The wheel and steering stem bearings on the C14 are exactly the same as those used on the ZX6R, that is to say a bike over 220lbs lighter. Also I had my steering stem bearing adjusted three times in 6000 miles. They kept coming loose.

The swingarm bearings are the same as those on the venerable C10, which was already prone to the much dreaded "bearing dance".

I have wondered why they just didn't use the same bearings as the Honda ST1100...

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I am surprised as Kawasaki usually makes things heavy duty. The thing is, that type of Kawasaki engine usually is chain drive.

 

I've never heard of shaft or FD problems on the other bikes. No problems with switch gear or fuel strips either. :)

 

I also had a handlebar switch fail on a Honda. I had my brother (a certified computer tech) fix it and after doing the job he said "Never again, please!". :dopeslap:

 

The wheel and steering stem bearings on the C14 are exactly the same as those used on the ZX6R, that is to say a bike over 220lbs lighter. Also I had my steering stem bearing adjusted three times in 6000 miles. They kept coming loose.

The swingarm bearings are the same as those on the venerable C10, which was already prone to the much dreaded "bearing dance".

I have wondered why they just didn't use the same bearings as the Honda ST1100...

 

The problem I have seen with team green is the lack of grease on some bearings and splines. Usually if they are cleaned and repacked early on, it's not a problem. As far as the swing arm bearings, I thought the C14 uses a completely different setup?

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  • 5 years later...

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