bmweerman Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Hey everybody... At least those of you still around to read this... FINALLY got the bike back together in time for a late DV run and she won't start...All lights come on, everything seems to be funcitoning properly, gas flowing she just won't catch!1 As usual...any help much appreciated!!! Cameron Link to comment
Eschelon1 Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Getting spark? Check the HES and harness? Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 ummmm can u give me a quick heads up on how to do that? I mean I know how to check a harness but not sure about the HES? TIA Link to comment
Redbrick Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Sure hope you made the run to Death Valley.....Let us all know who have been following your recent trevails on the site...... Phil.........Redbrick Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 Still trying to get ther Doh!!! Thanks for you interest though. Cameron Link to comment
Jim Moore Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Are the fuel hoses switched? Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 that's an interesting question!!! They're not interchangable?!?! Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 OK, fuel pump spins when you turn the key on (with sidestand up)? If yes, then your pump's working. Are the hoses plumbed right? The upper hose (on the sending unit) is the pressurized supply: it goes to the upper plastic manifold tube, and the lower hose goes to the lower plastic manifold tube. In the following image, the configuration is shown for checking the pressure in the fuel supply: You shouldn't need to actually check pressure, but verify that your hoses are routed properly. If they are, and you're still not firing, pull an injector out of the throttle body and see if it squirts fuel while you crank. If it does, then see if you've got spark. Report back if you've got fuel AND spark but no combustion. Link to comment
steve.foote Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Since you just finished your spline lube, let's look at things which were disturbed during the operation. Mitch started with the fuel lines. Is it possible that one of the fuel regulator manifold tubes is pinched? O2 sensor wire disconnected? Neutral switch disconnected? Sidestand switch wire pinched by starter? Kill switch engaged? Keep your search limited to the things you touched while doing the spline lube. Retrace your footsteps. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Assuming the RID comes on, the neutral light comes on, and the fuel pump comes on, I'd say reversed fuel hoses are probably the most likely cause. If those check out OK, verify that you have spark. (Please clean up and ventilate any fuel you spilled checking the hoses...and remember that fuel vapor is very explosive.) Then check other stuff like the O2 sensor connector, etc. Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 In checking the spark by pulling a plug, reinserting it into the wire, and turning over the engine, preferably in a semidark garage, it is important to keep the plug body grounded. I believe this warning protects the coil. --Jerry Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 In checking the spark by pulling a plug, reinserting it into the wire, and turning over the engine, preferably in a semidark garage, it is important to keep the plug body grounded. I believe this warning protects the coil. --Jerry Grounding the rim of the plug while attempting to fire is indeed important; without that, voltages build up high enough to damage the coil. Testing like this is also easier if you happen to have a spare plug lying around to use, instead of having to remove the particular plug that's installed in the cylinder head. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 Thanks again to all for yet another speedy response!!! Fuel lines not interchangable!!! Who woulda thunk it Bike goes Zoom Zoom now!!!! Thanks again and off I goooooooooo........ Link to comment
Ken H. Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Fuel lines not interchangeable!!! Who woulda thunk it Just to kind of close the book on the "why", one hose is the high pressure hose from the fuel plump in the tank to the injection system, the other is the excess fuel return hose to the tank post injectors. Reverse them and the fuel pump attempts to pump fuel the wrong direction into the system. Link to comment
bigboy Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 hey cameron I am so pleased for you if i was closer i should like to shake your hand mate. I just know when i get to do my clutch there is going to be a field full of splinters from the head scratching. I hope the bike went well for you please let us all know how the machine runs . kind regards stay upright derek Link to comment
Edgar Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Congratulations nice feeling eh? Now we offically retire the Marathon Man name. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 hey cameron I am so pleased for you if i was closer i should like to shake your hand mate. I just know when i get to do my clutch there is going to be a field full of splinters from the head scratching. I hope the bike went well for you please let us all know how the machine runs . kind regards stay upright derek + Thanks for the Kudos....!!!! And to you Ken for the explination..!! Am afraid they might be a bit premature...everything was ready to got to DV until one final check revealed that the rear brake rotor was bent... I'm guessing from when I dropped the final off the workbench doh!!! Oh Well...I'll get another one of those and then maybe I can goooooo.... Thanks again everybody!!! Cameron Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 Congratulations nice feeling eh? Now we offically retire the Marathon Man name. Thanks my friend ...although maybe not quite yet...see previous post Link to comment
No_Twilight Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 [quoteI'm guessing from when I dropped the final off the workbench doh!!! Sounds like me--struggling to work with utmost precision in the machine shop and then hit the wrong switch or lever and take a huge gouge out of the work...or drop it. Usually happens when working too late into the night. Let me give you my kudos on your persistence and can-do-it attitude. And for good measure here is a Calvin Coolidge quote that I keep on my wall: "Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination are omnipotent." ~ Calvin Coolidge And I've been looking for more cost effective rotors and found these Ferodos. Don't know anything about them but thought I'd pass on the link. http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Ferodo_Brake_Rotors_BMW_R1100RT--505228.html Looks like one for your bike is $112. --Jerry Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 And I've been looking for more cost effective rotors and found these Ferodos. Don't know anything about them but thought I'd pass on the link. http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Ferodo_Brake_Rotors_BMW_R1100RT--505228.html Looks like one for your bike is $112. --Jerry Thanks again Jerry for the encouragement!! I just ordered a rotor from these guys...thanks for the tip..will let you know how it works out. Thanks again Cameron Link to comment
Paul Mihalka Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Warning: The bolts that hold the disk to the rear drive can be very tight. Make sure you have a tight fitting wrench and use some heat. Link to comment
russell_bynum Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Warning: The bolts that hold the disk to the rear drive can be very tight. Make sure you have a tight fitting wrench and use some heat. Agree. A few minutes per bolt with your heat gun should make life much easier. I can't comment on the Ferodo rotors, but I had Ferodo pads on my RT for a while and really liked them. They're a pretty well-known name in motorcycle brakes, so I wouldn't hesitate to try one of their rotors. Link to comment
bmweerman Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 Warning: The bolts that hold the disk to the rear drive can be very tight. Make sure you have a tight fitting wrench and use some heat. Agree. A few minutes per bolt with your heat gun should make life much easier. I can't comment on the Ferodo rotors, but I had Ferodo pads on my RT for a while and really liked them. They're a pretty well-known name in motorcycle brakes, so I wouldn't hesitate to try one of their rotors. He He.... I used to take great pleasure in mastering difficult music...now my greatest pleasure is heating up tight bolts and wrenching them out!!!! (Insert evil demented laughter ala a bad Allister Crowlery impersonation) But seriously...thank you that is very useful information. Cameron Link to comment
SWB Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Warning: The bolts that hold the disk to the rear drive can be very tight. Make sure you have a tight fitting wrench and use some heat. I was thinking about this the other day. Is there any reason that an impact wrench (with heat) isn't recommended? Seems like that's what we always used on the dirt bikes, and they're mostly aluminum, too. I know that heat is required to break the loctite seal (and it'd be a nasty idea to twist the nut head off the bolt by using too much force without heat ), but it seems like an impact wrench was made for situations like this. Link to comment
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