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New 1200 RT wear-in schedule


Richard_S

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I have an '05 1200 RT (Dark Graphic Metallic) and I'm obviously new to this board. I'm currently using the wear-in schedule titled Wearing in your RT in this forum under the M/C FAC written by Richard Frantz . My question is this information still current for use on a new machine? Due to the weather and my schedule, I'm up to the 200 mile mark and 3500 rpm looking forward to the next 400 miles up to 4000 rpm.

Thanks.

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Hey there Richard, wecome to the forum!! You definetely have the right color thumbsup.gif I was unable to look at the Richard Frantz forum but, As far as the wear in schedule, I have heard several things from several people and had decided..at least for me that if there is any doubt to just follow the ownwers manual. I think that you were talking about "break in"?.

You are going to have so much fun, and a very long relationship with your new RT.

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The dealer that sold me the bike has over 20 years experience with BMW's. He told me to keep it under 4000 rpm's for the first 600 miles. He stressed that under no circumstances should I baby the engine so I didn't thumbsup.gif. He said that if you baby the engine then it will burn oil for a longer period. The only thing he stressed was to keep under 4000 rpms and vary the rpms frequently.

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Third it. vary the revs, ride on the twisties and up and downies. don't worry if now and again it revs past 4000 a little !! rev rather than labor the engine.

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fourth it, HOWEVER I am still burning mucho oil even though I beat it like a red headed step child or a rented mule, which ever offends you the least....

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Nothing has changed in the basic design of the boxer engine since Dick wrote that, so in that sense it still applies. Whether or not you feel his basic philosophy has merit (personally I think it does), you will have to decide.

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here is the link http://www.bmwrt.com/faq/breakin.htm

on a competing site.

nothing mystic I think. BUT the forward cooling is vastly different if engine is liquid cooled or air cooled.

Uneveness follows easily with aircooled stationary warm up.

Just like with all mechanical engines (also automobiles) in spite of "no break in needed" there is always a degree of roughness to be honed down and the parts need to get used to each other. Vary the rpms and make sure there is enough torque available at all times. No sparing of engine at low rpms do occur.

 

h

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fourth it, HOWEVER I am still burning mucho oil even though I beat it like a red headed step child or a rented mule, which ever offends you the least....

 

Geez...I never mentioned it because I thought that I was the only one...but Im willing to come out of the closet now clap.gif

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fourth it, HOWEVER I am still burning mucho oil even though I beat it like a red headed step child or a rented mule, which ever offends you the least....

 

Geez...I never mentioned it because I thought that I was the only one...but Im willing to come out of the closet now clap.gif

 

haha.. after the reviewing my post I didnt realize I admitted to that... cool.gif

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I completely disagree with Frantz. I consider my bike broken in (run in, whatever one wants to call it) at 7800 miles using the BMW recommended procedure. Oil useage is essentially over now for my bike. Either I'm lucky (not!) or BMW knows how their bikes should be broken in.

 

Just an experience based opinion.

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ShovelStrokeEd

I have used the RD Frantz system, actually I'm a bit more agressive than he suggests, on nearly every engine I have ever worn in and that's quite a few in over 40 years of riding. Never an issue.

 

The key to wear in is simple, progressivly higher loading on the motor with progressivly higher RPM limits. The factory recommendation won't steer you wrong but, IMHO, prolongs wear in beyond what is reasonable. Important, in fact, paramount, is keeping the oil clean during this process. I would not hesitate to recommend changing the oil at say 300 miles and then again at the 600 point.

 

On my last two new bikes, I also switched to full synthetic at the 600 mile point with no ill effects on oil consumption. Both were down to 1 quart per 5000 or so miles within the first normal oil change interval. The GS Adv was at 61K miles in 2.5 years when it left me, the S currently has 51K miles in 3 years and purrs like a kitten.

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Follow the Guide Lines and you`ll be fine.

Don`t use synth. oil at the 1K service.

I have 21K and change my oil every 3K. Now that my 20K service has been done I`ll bump that to every 4K and still use regular Dino Oil. Synth. oil`s are great but no need for it here. Keep it serviced and save yourself the extra money. I have been running 10W40 Mobil 5000 and it uses no oil. clap.gif

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