BMW R1100RTP Service

[GearedForACure]

I just bought a 99 R1100RTP with 66k from a private owner. I talked with my local BMW shop about what I should do to make sure that all is well. They said for about $400 they could change all of the fluids, adjust the valves, and sync the throttle bodies (what he explained as their 12k mi service). The bike does run a little rough, but I am not sure that I want to spend another $400 right now, 10% of the cost of the bike.

 

My question is, is all of this neccessary, and can I do these things myself. I have a basic mechanical knowlege, my first car was a 1980 porsche 924 that took constant mechanical work to keep running. I guess I just want to know if $400 is worth it for these items, or if I should learn to do them myself.

 

R

[Rt4Me]

You can easily do the work yourself.

 

You might have someone in the area that could show you?

[SWB]

It's up to you. I paid about $80 when I first purchased my RTP to have a shop look it over as a continguency of the sale. Not sure if it was worth the money or not (they missed some obvious things, flagged something wrong that probably wasn't). Then I paid a second shop to perform my 6K (54K service). Again, they did the job ($350.00), but said that the plug wires were bad and wanted $100 per wire for the replacement plus $70 to replace them (for the RTP version). After I choked on that, I finally replaced both plug wires and coil (which I diagnosed as the real problem), and resync'd the throttles myself.

 

I'll probably do the rest of my service from here on out.

 

My planned maintenance list looks like this:

 

- R&R clutch

 

- While R&R the clutch:

-+ Replace damaged fuel regulator (ham-handed service guy crushed the fuel regulator lines)

-+ Perform spline lube (and check trans/final drive splines)

-+ Replace neutral switch

-+ Replace drive shaft thrust bearing

-+ Check swingarm pivot bearings (probably replace)

-+ Replace throttle and clutch cables

-+ Upgrade/replace shocks front/rear with Öhlins or Works

 

- Replace fuel filter (MAYBE, perform modification to place fuel filter outside the gas tank - not sure if I'm going to do this)

 

- Bleed break lines (install speed bleeders)

 

- Measure break pads (R&R as necessary)

 

- Check all vacume lines at throttle bodies. Replace all rubber "O" rings, boots, and other rubber parts that have anything to do with vacume at air/fuel intake.

 

- Replace gear oil with Red Line Synthetic Shockproof Heavy. (Believe this applies to both transmission and final drive gear oils.. have to recheck the recommendations again on this, but both need to be replaced by 60K).

 

- Perform Cam tensioner upgrade (left side only)

 

- Upgrade; Replace RT intake manifold with GS manifolds, and yellow RT CAT code plug with the GS version.

 

- Retune/resych TBS again, including valve check, "zero-zero" throttle body tune up. Remove and clean LBB (Large Brass Bypass screws).

 

- Use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (right before next oil change).

 

- Upgrade: Replace windscreen with Cee Bailey's Screen #2 Eurocut +4 or +5

 

There are other things, such as cutting a hole in the center alternator cover and replacing the cut out section with with a plastic plug (so I can rotate the alternator flywheel during tune-ups and see TDC without removing the cover). I haven't even covered the "farkles" I'm interested in (such as a GPS - definitely going to happen, or a autocom/MP3 - might happen).

 

What's essential? My bike's got a lot of miles on it (55K), I don't have the service history, and I don't really trust that the last 20 service guys who maintained the bike during it's "official" life did the job properly. Were throttle cables replaced at 36K? During the last two service checks, one guy said replace the clutch/throttle cables, another said "clutch is at limits", but neither mentioned the other's diagnosis, and they were 4K miles apart. I don't know what's been done, or done right. I'm going to do it myself, because I'm the one who'll be riding the bike at 80MPH on the freeway. (After the first "check", I lost the front fender within 50 miles while traveling at 80MPH (wrapped around the front tire - very hairy). Did the service guy forget to put the screws back in, or to torque them after checking the brakes, or did they just suddenly vibrate out on their own after 50K miles??)

 

Nice thing about buying a used RTP. There's loads of wrenching that can be done to improve the bike, and/or improve the reliability. Again, I'm doing it myself, because I don't trust others to do it for me.

 

Take a look at the recommended maintenance, and try to figure out what's been done. I was told that the service history is available from BMW, but when I tried to get it, I was told it's only retained at the local dealer (which was contracted to perform the service for the public agency which owned the bike), and since I wasn't the owner who paid for that service, I'm out of luck.

 

There's reference material on this forum for everything I described above. Good luck, have fun.

[Stan Walker]

Replace drive shaft thrust bearing

 

Please take pictures of this. I don't think my "civilian" RT's have them and I'm curious to know what it is!

 

 

Stan

[SWB]

Replace drive shaft thrust bearing

 

Please take pictures of this. I don't think my "civilian" RT's have them and I'm curious to know what it is!

 

 

Stan

 

I have the word "verify" next to this on my list, but you didn't help at all.

 

This list is from notes I've been taking from the forums. Someone mentioned something along the line that this bearing should replaced during the clutch replacement, since it would probably last about as long as the clutch.

 

How 'bout "Check/replace throw out bearing & thrust rod"??

 

My "planned maintenance" list is a work in progress.

[Stan Walker]

How 'bout "Check/replace throw out bearing & thrust rod"??

 

Well, at least we have those!

 

It's unlikely that the rod would need replacing unless you damage it taking the tranny off. The throw out bearing on the R1100's has been a pretty low failure rate item. That's not as true for the R1150's where the throw out bearing is in the hydraulic slave cylinder.

 

Stan