OK, Why all the Backlash???

[Eschelon1]

Up until recently my BMW experice has been on a Monolever K Bike. I added an 05 1150RT to the stable and spent the better part of the last six months getting used to the hydraulic clutch and the seemingly high 1st gear.

 

Now that I'm fairly smooth with the bike, I notice going through the twisties, on & off the throttle, shifting, a certain amount of driveline lag (Backlash) from the time I get back on the throttle untill the power hits the rear wheel. It's only a split second but it's frustrating and can upset the bike in a hard turn.

 

So between the rubberized driveshaft, the "No feedback" clutch, the throttle response and the final drive is there anything I can do, or do I just need to work on my technique more?

 

[David]

So between the rubberized driveshaft, the "No feedback" clutch, the throttle response and the final drive is there anything I can do, or do I just need to work on my technique more?

 

It too found it a challenge to ride the RT through a place like Deal's Gap. Finally I landed on always having a tad throttle, even when I was braking, and that fixed.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

+1 on the on the gas thing here. I actually roll back into the gas before turn in and yes, even under braking. Makes for a much smoother transition.

[russell_bynum]

What David and Ed said. The rear brake works well for this.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

It too found it a challenge to ride the RT through a place like Deal's Gap. Finally I landed on always having a tad throttle, even when I was braking, and that fixed.

 

I haven't tried this, but I've often thought about running through there (and other tight stuff) with the fast-idle lever maxed out.

 

Anyone done that?

[Ken H.]

Another thought, I think what RPM ranges you run have something to do with it to. A lot of people are scared to run the R motor in the 6-7K range. Mostly because it sounds like it's about to come apart! But don't be afraid to, it can take it. If you keep you revs up that helps to eliminate some of the sharp on/off lash transitions too. If for no other reason than you are keeping the throttle open further longer.

[St0nkingByte]

It too found it a challenge to ride the RT through a place like Deal's Gap. Finally I landed on always having a tad throttle, even when I was braking, and that fixed.

I think that's a reasonable thing to do on alot of bikes. My Suzuki has the same problem and its a chain drive. If you close the throttle all the way the snap you get from going from no throttle to some throttle is upsetting in a corner, and yes my chain is adjusted correctly

[Kitsap]

I've used the fast idle just cracked with very smooth results.

[ShovelStrokeEd]

Ditto, if not a bit worse on my Blackbird. Between the chain, the rear wheel cush drive, the transmission and the primary drive to the clutch basket there are a lot of mating gears and stuff along with that cush drive in the rear wheel. Also, with 160 crank HP and 90 lb/ft of torque on tap, the high RPM option can make for some interesting speed incursions during the coarse of cornering. Can you say gentle with the throttle hand?

[Bill_Walker]

I haven't seen this on the RT, but on other bikes I've found that I'm much smoother if I adjust the throttle cable on the tight side of specs. Make sure you've got some slack, but it doesn't have to be much. Without it, you get this feeling of "turn, nothing, turn nothing, turn more and whoops there's a bunch of gas".

[hudo]

Drag the rear brake into the turn, it will load the drive train and lessen the lash, well it works on 12rt cause the rear is independent to front Hudo .

[Eschelon1]

Hmm, thanks guys, all sounds like good ideas. I guess it makes sense though. If you keep a little throttle on, there won't be as much "slack". I'll have to get out and practice that beore track day.