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Cycle Gadget autoswitch


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I am installing the autoswitch on my 2003 RT. The switch wire needs to be spliced to the turn signal cancel wire going to the turn signal module in the fuse box. The wiring harness does not give you much room to do a neat splice/connection,has anyone come up with alternate place to tap into this wire?

I am also installing an AP 1 fuse panel, where is the best place to pick up a switched supply?

Thank you for your help,if you are burning across Northwestern Ontario we have lots of room for camping ,sleeping bags etc.


Colin Carswell

2003 1150RT Silver

1980 R65 Brown. owned since new.

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Hi Colin,


I just put an Autoswitch in my 05 RT but used the High Beam model (5P). So while I can't help you as I'm not familiar with the 03 setup, I did want to take this thread as an opportunity to post some Autoswitch info for 05-06 R12RT owners. The system on the R12RT uses a digital pulse which is not what the 5NB is programmed to look for. You can, however use the 5P model and key off the headlight highbeams (white wire in main lighting plug behind speedo/tach). I just finished installing my 5P (after sending back the 5NB) last week and it works fine.


Here's a "canned" response I got back from Autoswitch when I emailed them direct:


**** Start Autoswitch quoted text*****


Thanks for purchasing our item.

Its very simple, the 5NB models need a negative pulse to activate the relay on or off. That was taken from the turn signal cancel button off all K and R bike BMWs before CAN-BUS. The new bikes send a digital pulse to cancel the turn signals. We are in development of a new circuit to use that signal to activate the relay. This should be ready by Feb or march 2006.


Until we have that D model we use P models triggered by the high beam or brake light bulb.. On my 1200GS I use a P2 on the brake bulb then I touch the brake lever twice quickly and it works well for me. However we have not tested this enough to be sure other riders feel safe with it.


Meanwhile then just use the as5p as was done years ago on the high beam wire.


The reasone for the 5P and 5P2 models (or 5NB or 5NB2) is so you can activate 2 separate relays on the same high beam wire or turn signal cancel button, for example.


One example would be a bike with driving plus fog lights. Or I had a bike with Hella HIDs and I used 1 light in town and both lights ON in the country.


Please post this to the forums in hopes of better understanding the product. The new web page not yet up, will also clear this up. (we also have models to activate your garage door remote)


*****end of Autoswitch quote*****


Sorry for not posting this sooner.

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I just did this last weekend.


It is really hard to get a t-tap to work because the wire running to the turn signal module is really thin. I tried, but did not have any luck.


So I very gently pulled the module up and out of the fuse box (my module is a Kissan), and clamped some forceps (formerly surgical roach clip) to the wire bundle, and braced the forceps across the top of the fuse box. This gave me access to the wire bundle without having to use one hand to keep the wire bundle pulled up. I then separated the tape from the wire bundle, and pulled the brown/white wire away from the other wire by about 1/4 inch. Using a fresh razor blade and a lot of patience, I stripped away about 3/8 inch of insulation all the way around the brown/white wire without cutting the copper part in half. I soldered the end of the Autoswitch orange wire to the exposed section after wrapping it around about two times. Then I put a small piece of electrical tape around the solder joint, and then some more around the bundle, plus a tie wrap to keep it all together. Took about 15 minutes, looks fine (its hidden, anyway), and works great. By the way, when I installed the Kissan signal minder I velcroed it to the separating wall in the fuse box - this turned out to be handy when I went back and did the Autoswitch.


Good luck. You can do it if I did. Just be patient, careful, and hold off on the beer until the job is done.

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