Rear brake hose

[Old Sport]

I have just had to replace my rear brake hose. After cracking the system open I have air in the system. I have blead from the ABS and the rear caliper. Getting better but still have small bubbles. I have the funnel that mounts into the top of the ABS will that help if I use it? I have a R1100RT 2000 model. Non-servo assist ABS.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Old Sport

 

That funnel won't fit into your ABS-II system as there is no place to put it. That funnel is ONLY for the later I-ABS system.

 

As a rule those small bubbles are from an air leak at the bleeder screw threads.

 

You might try raising your catch container to be above the bleed screw height. See if that makes the small bubbles go away.

 

[Old Sport]

I keep letting the bike set and then bleed again at both points. At one point I got some really milky looking fluid, I am assuming that is what they refer to as assperated. Seems to have cleared up and the pedal has gotten firmer. When I was flushing out the system before the same thing happened and the pedal got much firmer right before the old line ruptured. The old brake fluid looked like coffee.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

the pedal got much firmer right before the old line ruptured

 

Typical.

 

You might also try just barely cracking the bleeder screw to see if that helps with the tiny bubbles.

 

Mine was doing that and I just had to work through it. I slowed way down on the pumping and bleeding and it cleared.

[SKYGZR]

Lightly tap on the lines, and the caliper(s) with the bleeder wrench from time to time while bleeding. This sometimes will help send trapped air bubbles up the lines to the master cylinder.

[David R]

I push down on the pedal kind hard with my hand. open the bleeder quick then close (no rush) it while holding the pressure on the pedal. This will jar bubbles loose.

 

Do this 5 or 6 times make sure you do not run out of fluid. Abs unit and caliper. No funnel needed, just use brake master cylinder and keep everything sealed until you have pressure in the system.

 

On the last bleed, put pressure on the pedal, open bleeder slowly a little bit then close. This will help get that last teeny bubble hanging around.

 

The other thing I do is ride the bike (drive the car) an activate the abs, then bleed again. This can dislodge air too.

 

Make sure you don't squirt brake fluid anywhere.

 

Good luck

David

[philbytx]

If you have the bike Tupperware off, and you haven't done it before, also do an ABS unit bleed as well.

 

Only two bleed valves, one for each circuit. You will see two initials next to the valves, the one set beginning with H is the rear brake bleed. The one with the V is the front circuit !

 

 

[smiller]

You didn't mention why you replaced the hose but if it is because it was leaking (or even if not) it would very very advisable to replace all of the lines (front and back) if they are the OEM units. 13 years is a long life for these and if one failed the others will as well. The best bet is to replace with steel-braided aftermarket lines as they are both less expensive and vastly superior to the OEM rubber lines, and you will notice a big improvement in brake feel to boot.

[Old Sport]

I bought the R1100RT 2000 model last year in February. Took the bike on a businees trip about 400 miles round trip. On the way home I was heading by a BMW shop about half way. 6 miles from the shop the front brakes failed, front brake line rupture. Had it replaced left the bike for a week. Rear seemed OK.

Recently changed the rear brake pads and the fluid, rear pedal seemed weak so I flushed new fluid through. There seemed to be a lot of air in the line. Once I had gotton the air and old fluid out the normal pressure caused the rear brake hose to rupture. I am assuming the combination of air and water ladden fluid had allowed the rear brakes to function marginally. When I got good pressure it failed. Actually I am glad it failed in my garage and not on the road. The bike is 13 years old and is in wonderful shape but I am working through minor issues that keep popping up. In the past year I have replaced the front brake hoses, left plug wire, all fluids at least once some twice, the HES sensor, the fuel filter, the sending unit in the tank, the rear brake hose, rear brake pads, set the timing, adjusted the throttle bodies,and two valve adjustments. It has been a real learning expereince. The next project is to replace the front fork seals, the left one is weeping a little, so look for my next question. I am sure I will have them and this forum has been a great resource!

[Selden]

The next project is to replace the front fork seals, the left one is weeping a little, so look for my next question.

 

Illustrated guide: Fork Seal Fitting

[David R]

I have a 2000 R1100RT. Its getting old, so one day the speedometer quit. I said time to trade it. Off to the dealer I headed. ON the way to the dealer the rear brake hose blew.

 

I now ride a 12 R1200R. still have the RT deciding what to do with it.

 

David

[philbytx]

Fix the speedo, replace the brake lines and for about 300 bucks, you have a second bike !

 

[David R]

Fix the speedo, replace the brake lines and for about 300 bucks, you have a second bike !

 

All fixed. New rotor buttons, battery, clutch , motor rebuild, brakes front and rear, Now its the windshield will go down but not up. What is next?

 

It was never ending. It got to be my weekly call to BMW for parts. That is why I bought the new R.

 

Well, I bought the new R because it weighs less than 500 lbs wet, and has a few more ponies. and I could.

 

David

[philbytx]

HERE is a linky to a previous thread on windshield issues !