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12GS 6K service completed, with Pics.


Jim VonBaden

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Jim VonBaden

Today I did the 6K on my not so new 12GS. It was almost exactly the same as my previous 11GS and 11RS, so there were no real surprises.

 

I am using a modified Anton Method, created by Shane.

 

Head.jpg

The cover came off the same as the 11GS, and easily cleared the H&B crash bars.

 

However, the front engine cover would not even come close to coming off with the crash bars, so I pulled the plugs and rotated the engine using the rear wheel with the trans in 6th gear.

 

Cam-Arrow-right.jpg

The right side of the 12GS has a cam arrow like on the R11 series, and it worked the same way. Have the arrow point straight out, and check the valves to make sure both intake and exhaust are loose. If not, rotate the engine so the arrow comes around again.

 

No-Cam-Arrow-left.jpg

The left side had this attachment to the cam, I think it was some sort of position sensor since wires were attached to the cam cover. Hard to see, but there is a hole in it that lines up straight out when the cylinder is at TDC.

 

Cam-Ind-right-for-left-TDC.jpg

If you look back over on the right side, this is what you see when the left is at TDC, if the valves aren't loose to the touch, rotate the engine so the cam rotates 360 degrees.

 

both-feeler-gage.jpg

Insert the feeler gages, same as the 11/1150 series, .30mm on the exhaust, and .15 mm on the intake.

 

Intake-feeler-gage.jpg

Intake side.

 

The exhaust side looks similar. Make sure you have both sides in, and all 4 valves covered when you get set to adjust the valves.

 

Exhaust-feeler-gage.jpg

As you can see, the valves are parallell enough that no significant stress is placed on the feeler gages, and an acurate measurement is easily achieved.

 

First loosen the locking nuts, then insert the 3mm allen wrench and back off the adjustment approximately 1/4 turn. Ensure the allen wrench is near the top of a gravity stroke, then let it go. Gravity and resistance will stop it with the right amount of pressure on the valve.

 

Adj-hold.jpg

 

Adj-Drop.jpg

Tighten the lock nut without disturbing the position of the allen wrench. I hold it in place and tighten the locking nut.

 

Pull from the center, and if the resistance is even, you have the adjusted correctly. There should be some slight resistance, but it should be easy to move the feeler gages.

 

Rotate the engine and do the other side.

 

I changed the oil and filter, warmed up the bike, and did a TB sync of just just the cables, since the idle is done automatically.

 

I also checked all the nuts and bolts, and made a few adjustments. Everything looked good, and the bikes runs as good as ever.

 

One note though, two of the exhaust valves were very tight, probably from the dealer doing the 600. Glad all my future service will be from me only! Except warranty repairs of course.

 

 

 

I also found a sad reminder of poor quality. The paint was bubling on my left valve cover.

 

Valve-cover-bubble-paint.jpg

 

Valve-cover-bubble-paint3.jpg

 

See the arrows, it is bubbling on top and bottom.

 

Oh well, warranty will fix it.

 

Jim cool.gif

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Excellent documentation and instruction. This post is a keeper for me. I would expect the procedure/pictures to be the same for my R12RT, since the engines are essentially the same. Thank you!

 

Jay

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The left side had this attachment to the cam, I think it was some sort of position sensor since wires were attached to the cam cover. Hard to see, but there is a hole in it that lines up straight out when the cylinder is at TDC.

 

If I am not mistaken both pistons are at TDC at the same time so the arrow on the right should work for both sides, shouldn't it?

 

Great pics thumbsup.gif. I just did my 6000 prior to winterizing it. Knowing about that little arrow would have helped.

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Jim, thanks for posting this. The pics help, and make this one of the best posts I've seen on this board.

 

It made me think, how does stuff get added to the FAQ on this site, this would be a great post to capture in the FAQ. Also the thread on how to turn off the headlight.

 

Walter

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After changing oil & filter you did a TB sync of the cables.

What is a TB sync?

Great pictures & explanation of the valve adjust process!

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Jim VonBaden
Does anyone know where to buy the feeler guages shown in the valve adjustment procedure?

 

Thanks!

 

Gjnockie

 

2005 R 1200RT

 

Mine were inexpensive gages from Autozone. The intake gage I gut down in length to fit between the head bolt bosses.

 

Jim cool.gif

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Jim VonBaden
After changing oil & filter you did a TB sync of the cables.

What is a TB sync?

Great pictures & explanation of the valve adjust process!

 

The TB Sync is a Throttle Body sync. On the hexhead engine you can only adjust the cables and higher RPM sync. The idle is done via computer at the dealer, though appears not to be needed because the Motornic on the bike does it for you.

 

Jim cool.gif

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