Jump to content
IGNORED

Getting Ready


faster pastor

Recommended Posts

faster pastor

Well the new BMW owner but old rider is getting ready for Spring. With the helpof this forum and a good Manual I have successfully:

Sorted out the wiring on the HES

Changed Alt. belt

Changed plugs

Set Valves

Bled new fluid through ABS and Calipers

Cleaned and "greased"connectors elecltrical connectors

Cleaned and re-oiled air filter..

..still looking hard at throttle cables

..have new brake pads coming.

..have new tires but will wear whats on there to the nubbies

..All this fixing helps me get through the last part of winter

 

Can't wait to hit the road soon... First summer with the 1999 R1100RT...Come on Spring :Cool:

Link to comment

PS: NO cheap brake pads. Use EBC or OE or some other quality brand.

 

I was in a tight budget and got a set of those cheapo Chinese both end pad kits for less than 1 set from a quality company, and all they did was stick, did not fit properly, and skreetched really badly. Took them off, threw them away and picked up a set of EBC from my buddys shop {small aftermarket shop not a dealer} and they were cheaper than I thought...best upgrade I made.

Link to comment
faster pastor

Well..happy day..finished all my repairs began to reassemble the bike. After re-installing tank and hooking up the battery..hit the starter button and it just began to purr like a kitten......So here's the list again

New SBS brake pads front and rear

Flushed new fluid through ABS and calipers

Installed new alternator belt and sorted the HES wiring

Cleaned lubed air filter

Installed new plugs

Set valves,lubed clutch cable

Electrical grease in connectors..deep cleaning

Horse traded Elf Pegs for a like new BMW tank bag

Found a like new Corbin Rider and Passenger set

New tires that I will put on just before trip this summer..

I'm ready...let Spring hurry up.. :Cool:

 

Link to comment

 

 

In about three weeks i hope to be able to complete the extensive maintenance that you did with and few more items as well.

 

i'm looking to redo the paint on the valve covers (don't ask), do you know of a high temperature paint that will match up with the existing cylinder colour?

 

I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended.

 

Are you still planning on that trip through Calgary?

 

Ron

 

Link to comment
faster pastor

Good chance of heading west...really getting excited about riding the BMW. I have ridden since 69 and feel like a kid on his first date every spring. No help in the paint area...sorry. Dumb question..Do the front forks have any compression or dampening besides Springs..any oil recomends????

Faster Pastor :Cool:

Link to comment

The front forks have no springs or damping - those duties are takencare of by the front shock. The forks contain oil and are sealed, which adds a little springing. The fork oil in the telelever front-end is only for lubrication purposes, weight makes no difference, level a small springing impact but insignificant compared to the shock. A good-quality mid-weight fork oil is good, but so is ATF which also has seal conditioner so the fork seals may last longer...

 

Andy

Link to comment
faster pastor

Thanks for that. The bike tracks straight...tires wear in normal way..visually it looks like the left handgrip is closer to dash. In it's past bike has had a mild "down" on the left side..Any thoughts on checking/correcting this? It may be an illusion..

Faster Pastor.....R1100RT 1999 :Cool:

Link to comment

I would want to inspect as much as I could for fracture/cracks

if the bike has been down.

 

They're pretty robust.

 

I've ridden bikes that had been clobbered and came through

basically sound.

Link to comment

 

In about three weeks i hope to be able to complete the extensive maintenance that you did with and few more items as well.

 

i'm looking to redo the paint on the valve covers (don't ask), do you know of a high temperature paint that will match up with the existing cylinder colour?

 

I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended.

 

Are you still planning on that trip through Calgary?

 

Ron

 

Ron,

 

You can just powder coat the valve colors. No need to use a hi temp paint on them. I don't think they get hotter than 60 degrees Celsius.

 

As for the rotor pins, if you are not in too much hurry, I will start making those too. The price will be no where close to what you have been quoted.

 

Dan.

Link to comment

Hi Dan

 

I'm not in a hurry for the rotor pins, I guess i should not be surprised at the OEM prices from BMW, I thought to just use 6 new ones on each side but i will wait to see what you come up with. will you be using the three piece system similar to BMW?

 

Ron

Link to comment

I'm looking to redo the paint on the valve covers (don't ask), do you know of a high temperature paint that will match up with the existing cylinder colour?

.....

Ron

Krylon Dull Aluminum then a coat of Krylon Satin Clear Coat

Duplicolor #1615 Aluminum

 

Link to comment
faster pastor

Thanks for that .. I have looked hard...may remove and check for straightness...tubes could likely be pressed straight once dismantled...It is simpler in that they only provide structure not suspension control..

Link to comment

 

 

 

I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended.

 

 

 

Motobins sells a set made of steel for about $40. You might check it out. Their part number 20393

 

http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R850%20R1100%20R1150

 

I've bought from them before. Fast service and shipping, even from the UK to the US.

Link to comment
Clive Liddell

 

Hi Ron,

 

I work on an additional 21% here in South Africa for orders from US and UK. Our VAT is 14% and Import Duty another 6%. Not to mention the exchange rate which never "improves" ...

Link to comment

Hi Clive

 

Thank you for your reply, its amazing where the responses come from.

 

Years ago I use to import merchandise for my hobby store and dealing with import duties was a nightmare at the best of times. The biggest hassle was trying to determine the country of origin of every part of every item I wanted to import.

I prefer to support local or domestic suppliers when possible, but sometimes they force you to look elsewhere because of their prices, the price of the rotor pins is a good example.

 

Do you do most of your own maintenance, do you ride year round?

 

Ron

 

Link to comment

 

 

 

I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended.

 

 

 

Motobins sells a set made of steel for about $40. You might check it out. Their part number 20393

 

http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R850%20R1100%20R1150

 

I've bought from them before. Fast service and shipping, even from the UK to the US.

 

Not meaning to hijack your post... Moto-bins list them as being made out of steel. That is wrong. They need to me made out of a softer material, in order to wear, otherwise they will destroy your rotors or/and the part that mount to the hub.

 

I am still in test mode with mine and will keep you updated.

 

Dan.

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Dan

 

Have you given any more thought to making the 1100RT rotor pins, I'm probably going to be replacing the rotors at the end of this year (not OEM for sure) as i'm getting close to the 4.5MM minimum so I will need a set of 24 by then.

 

Ron

 

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...