faster pastor Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Well the new BMW owner but old rider is getting ready for Spring. With the helpof this forum and a good Manual I have successfully: Sorted out the wiring on the HES Changed Alt. belt Changed plugs Set Valves Bled new fluid through ABS and Calipers Cleaned and "greased"connectors elecltrical connectors Cleaned and re-oiled air filter.. ..still looking hard at throttle cables ..have new brake pads coming. ..have new tires but will wear whats on there to the nubbies ..All this fixing helps me get through the last part of winter Can't wait to hit the road soon... First summer with the 1999 R1100RT...Come on Spring Link to comment
kmac Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Now all we need from you is PICs, PICS and more PICS of all the fun. I have not helped you so maybe I can't look at the pics..lol Link to comment
Twinsig Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Clean and lube the caliper pins on the rear, mine were neglected and binding. Just sayin. Link to comment
kmac Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 PS: NO cheap brake pads. Use EBC or OE or some other quality brand. I was in a tight budget and got a set of those cheapo Chinese both end pad kits for less than 1 set from a quality company, and all they did was stick, did not fit properly, and skreetched really badly. Took them off, threw them away and picked up a set of EBC from my buddys shop {small aftermarket shop not a dealer} and they were cheaper than I thought...best upgrade I made. Link to comment
Danny caddyshack Noonan Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Spare Alt belt and Clutch Cable for the road trips just in case? If you're prepared, you won't need them. Link to comment
faster pastor Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Well..happy day..finished all my repairs began to reassemble the bike. After re-installing tank and hooking up the battery..hit the starter button and it just began to purr like a kitten......So here's the list again New SBS brake pads front and rear Flushed new fluid through ABS and calipers Installed new alternator belt and sorted the HES wiring Cleaned lubed air filter Installed new plugs Set valves,lubed clutch cable Electrical grease in connectors..deep cleaning Horse traded Elf Pegs for a like new BMW tank bag Found a like new Corbin Rider and Passenger set New tires that I will put on just before trip this summer.. I'm ready...let Spring hurry up.. Link to comment
Woodchips Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 In about three weeks i hope to be able to complete the extensive maintenance that you did with and few more items as well. i'm looking to redo the paint on the valve covers (don't ask), do you know of a high temperature paint that will match up with the existing cylinder colour? I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended. Are you still planning on that trip through Calgary? Ron Link to comment
faster pastor Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Good chance of heading west...really getting excited about riding the BMW. I have ridden since 69 and feel like a kid on his first date every spring. No help in the paint area...sorry. Dumb question..Do the front forks have any compression or dampening besides Springs..any oil recomends???? Faster Pastor Link to comment
Boffin Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 The front forks have no springs or damping - those duties are takencare of by the front shock. The forks contain oil and are sealed, which adds a little springing. The fork oil in the telelever front-end is only for lubrication purposes, weight makes no difference, level a small springing impact but insignificant compared to the shock. A good-quality mid-weight fork oil is good, but so is ATF which also has seal conditioner so the fork seals may last longer... Andy Link to comment
faster pastor Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 Thanks for that. The bike tracks straight...tires wear in normal way..visually it looks like the left handgrip is closer to dash. In it's past bike has had a mild "down" on the left side..Any thoughts on checking/correcting this? It may be an illusion.. Faster Pastor.....R1100RT 1999 Link to comment
tallman Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I would want to inspect as much as I could for fracture/cracks if the bike has been down. They're pretty robust. I've ridden bikes that had been clobbered and came through basically sound. Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 In about three weeks i hope to be able to complete the extensive maintenance that you did with and few more items as well. i'm looking to redo the paint on the valve covers (don't ask), do you know of a high temperature paint that will match up with the existing cylinder colour? I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended. Are you still planning on that trip through Calgary? Ron Ron, You can just powder coat the valve colors. No need to use a hi temp paint on them. I don't think they get hotter than 60 degrees Celsius. As for the rotor pins, if you are not in too much hurry, I will start making those too. The price will be no where close to what you have been quoted. Dan. Link to comment
Woodchips Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Hi Dan I'm not in a hurry for the rotor pins, I guess i should not be surprised at the OEM prices from BMW, I thought to just use 6 new ones on each side but i will wait to see what you come up with. will you be using the three piece system similar to BMW? Ron Link to comment
Michaelr11 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 I'm looking to redo the paint on the valve covers (don't ask), do you know of a high temperature paint that will match up with the existing cylinder colour? ..... Ron Krylon Dull Aluminum then a coat of Krylon Satin Clear Coat Duplicolor #1615 Aluminum Link to comment
faster pastor Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Thanks for that .. I have looked hard...may remove and check for straightness...tubes could likely be pressed straight once dismantled...It is simpler in that they only provide structure not suspension control.. Link to comment
SAAB93driver Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended. Motobins sells a set made of steel for about $40. You might check it out. Their part number 20393 http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R850%20R1100%20R1150 I've bought from them before. Fast service and shipping, even from the UK to the US. Link to comment
Woodchips Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Thanks for the info Michael, I am going to add that to my to-do list. (it just keeps getting longer). Ron Link to comment
Woodchips Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Interesting site.I may just try them. How were the import duties? Link to comment
Clive Liddell Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi Ron, I work on an additional 21% here in South Africa for orders from US and UK. Our VAT is 14% and Import Duty another 6%. Not to mention the exchange rate which never "improves" ... Link to comment
Woodchips Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi Clive Thank you for your reply, its amazing where the responses come from. Years ago I use to import merchandise for my hobby store and dealing with import duties was a nightmare at the best of times. The biggest hassle was trying to determine the country of origin of every part of every item I wanted to import. I prefer to support local or domestic suppliers when possible, but sometimes they force you to look elsewhere because of their prices, the price of the rotor pins is a good example. Do you do most of your own maintenance, do you ride year round? Ron Link to comment
dan cata Posted February 19, 2013 Share Posted February 19, 2013 I checked out the pricing on the front rotor roll pin, washers, and lock rings, and was quoted $244, needless to say i found that a little much. I am told that a little dab of silicone between the pins and the rotor will stop the rattle and allow the rotor to float as intended. Motobins sells a set made of steel for about $40. You might check it out. Their part number 20393 http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R850%20R1100%20R1150 I've bought from them before. Fast service and shipping, even from the UK to the US. Not meaning to hijack your post... Moto-bins list them as being made out of steel. That is wrong. They need to me made out of a softer material, in order to wear, otherwise they will destroy your rotors or/and the part that mount to the hub. I am still in test mode with mine and will keep you updated. Dan. Link to comment
Woodchips Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Hi Dan Have you given any more thought to making the 1100RT rotor pins, I'm probably going to be replacing the rotors at the end of this year (not OEM for sure) as i'm getting close to the 4.5MM minimum so I will need a set of 24 by then. Ron Link to comment
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