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Glacier NP?


kmac

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Sorry if this is bad to do, but I am planning a cage trip with the wife and kid. We are going to blitz up the I-15 from So Cal to Montana then the 90 up to Glacier NP.

 

That is where my quest for info starts.

For all of you Northerners, or well traveled folks, what are the must see spots from there on?

 

Where is the best border crossing spots in the NP or are there any?

 

The trip will include a cut across to BC and Vancouver, then down through Seattle, Portland and a few day stops towards San Fran, like Redwoods NF....

 

We have 2 weeks open for the trip. Taking a full day to run up to the beginning of Glacier, a day {or a good part of one} to get home from San Fran, that leaves us 11-12 useable days to explore and hike in our stops. We know we want maybe 2 days in Vancouver and a 3rd in Seattle, at least a full day in Portland, a day to drive down to SF with maybe a full day mixed in for some site seeing in Nor Cal, and 2 days in SF...that eats about 7 of our 11 days. 4 days to spend in Glacier and driving over from GNP to Vancouver.

 

Keeps getting shorter. But where should we see in GNP? Is it worth the time to drive over to Banff?

 

Thanks for any input. We may need to cut down on the Vancouver, Seatle, SF time...but that will be a family discussion.

 

 

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Danny caddyshack Noonan

Kmac

Hate to mix it up but, Vancouver Island is one of my all time favorite places. Then the San Juan Islands doing a day of ferry hopping is way cool as well....jump on in Anacortes WA early morning on foot and go island to island. Grab a drink and meal in Friday Harbor.

Sorry.

 

I'm looking at the Hwy 89 crossing to CD...just on the east edge of the rockies and Glacier NP.

 

 

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No reason to be sorry. I appreciate all input on the route we are taking.

 

I know the trip sounds CRAZY rushed, and it is, but I have a 19 yr old daughter who would rather just spend 14 days in VBC and Seattle. Me I would rather spend a month in GNP...2 weeks is the max we have and mixing things up work the best for our family. It makes us all happy and breaks things up. It works for us.

 

I think I can talk her out of the Cali stuff on this trip, but GNP, across BC to Vancouver, then down to Seattle, then Portland and then B-line home is what will happen.

 

I know we can easily get to GNP in 1 24 hour day drive. We have 4 drivers and do alot of trips like that.

 

The input on cities is appreciated, but I mostly need info on GNP and the drive from there to VBC. What are the not to miss spots or hikes and what is the best route.

 

Keep em comin folks, thanks.

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We are going to blitz up the I-15 from So Cal to Montana then the 90 up to Glacier NP.

 

Taking a full day to run up to the beginning of Glacier....

 

If I am reading this correctly you think you can get from somewhere in southern California to Glacier in one day? That is about 1300 miles. Better take another look.

 

We have driven from SLC to GNP and other areas nearby so can offer these tips. I drove SLC to Bigfork area in one long day...

 

Once you get past Salt Lake City... say into rural Idaho... do not count on getting gas at every intersection of I-15. Tank up at Dillon, ID even if you only need half a tank.

 

If you exit in Missoula for any reason be aware the place is congested. The older roads are not prepared for a lot of traffic and finding food that is actually fast to get is a challenge. Make whatever stop you need either before or after...

 

Be aware that Northbound from the area near Missoula is Flathead Indian reservation. Local traffic can be slow and your normal California travel speed is no longer realistic. As you go around Flathead lake it is 2-lane and not designed for getting anywhere fast.

 

You did not say when you are planning the trip. Be aware that Going to the Sun highway can remain closed until sometimes late in June for weather. Plan ahead.

 

All roads in the summer will be heavy with RV and Motorcoach traffic and difficult to get around. Hwy 2 is 2 lane as you make your turn to the north-east direction.

 

Seriously- think about your first day as 2-days.

 

 

 

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Thanks for the input. I will start researching those spots. The pics are awesome.

 

Hopz, I do appreciate the input and will add some time, but in all honesty I have found I can get very close to Google maps times on their directions. We did Butte to Vegas in 12 hrs in 2011 and Vegas is 4 hrs from us. So I see 16 hours from here to Butte and a few more up to Kalispell or Whitefish. Google say 19.5 hours to GNP from here, I am giving 24 in my schedule. I think we are fine.

 

As stated we have 4 drivers and will rotate for sleep. We take snacks and drinks, quick pee breaks and fast food stops. I will not force the 24 hour schedule, but I am quite confident we can do that.

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Umm, you asked for opinions, and well here's mine.

 

I'd skip Glacier NP all together, and spend the time instead in the northern Cascades in WA. IMHO, the scenery in the Cascades rivals or betters Glacier without the crowds and road construction.

 

Glacier is a certainly a beautiful place, but it may be better enjoyed on foot, hiking far away from said maddening crowds. Traffic tends to crawl along the Going to the Sun Road and unless the road construction has been completed, it can (and likely will) be bumper to slow bumper the entire way.

 

We spent the same four days there just last fall and were sorely disappointed (especially compared to Yellowstone).

 

On the other hand, the norther Cascades in WA were a delight, much less crowded, excellent vistas, good hiking if desired, waterfalls out the kazoo, etc...if you consider this, be sure to look up and travel on the Cascade River Road in Marblemount. It's the old market road that runs up into the Cascades from the Skagit river.

 

Just sayin...

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I agree with mackerman on the "skip Glacier NP all together". Was there with family late last summer. A road trip of this magnitude deserves a better primary goal. The glaciers are all but gone, traffic is horrible and facilities are not adequate.

 

 

 

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Personal prejudice, but skip Glacier, and drive the Icefields Parkway from Banff to Jasper. It's one of the most beautiful routes I have ever been on — literally brought tears to my eyes shortly after I started riding north.

 

If you're familiar with US national parks, Banff can be jarringly commercial, with a Disneyish feel, but the gandola ride up to the peak of Sulphur Mountain is spectacular. Ride the car up and hike down or vice versa. If I remember right, going up was about a 2-hour hike (but I was younger then).

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Prince of Wales Hotel in Waterton CA right across the border.

 

Prince%20of%20Wales%20Hotel,%20Waterton%20Lake.jpg

 

 

Going to the Sun road is a fun day in GNP. No MC rider should pass that up if you have never been.

 

Lolo Pass (12 across Idaho) could be the day before or day after.

 

Ice Field Parkway could be a day before or after.

 

Num Ti Jah would be a fun place to stay on the way north on the Ice Field Parkway.

 

http://www.num-ti-jah.com/

 

The border crossing in the park is the best place to cross. Not very busy and very friendly folks. Richard asked the guard to marry him when we crossed in 2006.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I do appreciate all of the input, and it is all food for thought.

But, The trip WILL include Vancouver, Seattle and Glacier NP.

 

Jasper is way too far north for this trip. We are making a loop.

 

Fast as possible up to Montana, then reasonably up through GNP, accross to Vancouver with the remaining time in Seattle and maybe a stop in Portland....then a blitz striaght home.

 

That IS the trip. Just looking for ideas on what too see, and special trails to hike kind of stuff.

 

We knew nothing about Zion, but we asked around and a frequent visitor there told us we HAD to hike the Narrows...and so far that was one of the most amazing things we have done as a family vacation. Tons of other great stuff on that last trip, but had we not know about that hike Zion would just have been a pretty place...that hike/swim/trudge was mind blowing for us.

 

We also got a heads up on the Grand Tetons about a spot called Jenny lake and some great hike trail up to the top and some great giant waterfalls...not a huge tourist spot, but awesome and worth the hike.

 

Any ideas like that?

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Sorry, been crazy at work and haven't had any time to answer anything.

 

You might look back at this discussion: Vancouver, BC The restaurant recommendations may be old but new ones can always be found on UrbanSpoon or Chowhound.

 

I have a particular soft spot for Glacier NP and have hiked there lots (even more on the Waterton side). If your wife wants to see a pika I can almost guarantee one along the little trail to Hidden Lake from the Logan Pass parking lot. Any part of the Garden Wall is worth doing. Siyeh Pass and Iceberg Lake are great.

 

Hope to find more time next week to give more advice.

 

Mike Cassidy

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OK, let's try this again.

 

If you want to drive 24 hrs you can certainly make Kalispell/Whitefish (west side) or St Mary (east side). But you really don't want to be off the Interstate in the dark. Big time wildlife collision risk. Also, US 93 from Missoula to Kalispell is one of the more dangerous pieces of road in the US due to alcohol related accidents after dark.

 

I'm not sure if you are headed for the east side or west side of GNP. More places to stay and eat on the west side (Bigfork, Kalispell, Columbia Falls, Apgar/West Glacier. Quieter on the east side. The Going-to-the-Sun Road is still undergoing reconstruction and will only be open June 21 to September 15 next year. It can open even later if the snow pack is too deep.

 

Yes, driving the GTTS road is slow. Your best bet is to be on the road inside the park by 8 am. That way you avoid most of the traffic. Sunrise is before 6, sunset not until 9. Sometimes it is faster to go around the south border of the park on US 2.

 

I have no suggestions about seeing wolves, I don't think I have ever seen one in the wild. Quite a few bears (including grizzlies in GNP) and moose. Elk and bighorn sheep are as thick as flies in the park. You can probably see a moose in the marshy area close to Lake MacDonald or along the trail to Avalanche Lake.

 

As Larry suggested, the border crossing from Babb, MT to Waterton, AB (MT17-AB6) is pretty low key but it has pretty short hours. But almost all of the crossings are pretty low key as long as you remember your passports, no weapons, answer questions directly. Try not to cross on Friday or Sunday late afternoon or National Holidays (July 1, July 4, Aug 5, Sept 2).

 

If you missed it above, do not try to carry a weapon into Canada. Even if you declare your handgun it will probably take hours to get across the border and you will not likely ever get your weapon back. If you don't declare it, you won't even get your vehicle back.

 

There is no direct way to get from GNP to Vancouver, a disadvantage of all those stupid mountain ranges. In fact, most routing programs will send you all the way south to I90 then west to Bellevue,WA and north to Vancouver. The "most direct" routes are either US2-WA20 to I15 at Burlington,WA then north or BC3 (after crossing at Roosville or Porthill). I wouldn't use either of those roads in the dark due to wildlife, they slow down a lot when they go through towns and can be slow due to other traffic. So I would give take at least a day and a half on either of those routes.

 

The Blaine, WA crossing can take up to 2 hours when busy (days/times above and Saturday mornings). There are a couple of ways to check border crossing times and alternates (like the truck crossing just 1 mile east) exist.

 

Vancouver? My son spent 5 years going to university there and I never turned down a chance to go out and visit. Excellent food, beautiful setting, gardens etc. But traffic is a nightmare and it is quite costly.

 

Enough for now.

 

Mike Cassidy

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Thanks for checking back in Mike.

Great advice.

No worries on the gun issue, I do not carry guns anywhere.

 

Any insider info is good to have and we will take it under advisement while planning.

 

PS: About your sig line- I disagree, I have gotten pretty good at walking and chewing gum, I RARELY have any problems doing both...simultaneously.

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  • 1 month later...

So I have cemented some plans and thought I would check in and see what ideas you folks can add.

 

Now remember, this is not a bike trip, not a bike "adventure", but rather a long distance CAR trip with the wife and kids.

 

 

 

We are leaving So Cal on Sunday July 14, 2013 at about 4am and running straight up the I-15N to Butte MT. People have reccommended not to do this, but we have 4 different drivers and the trip at speed limit is 15 hrs 30 mins. I know that is alot to start with, but I have done that much by myself before. I usually run 5-10 mph over posted speed limit on interstates and my wife and kid are very used to making long hauls between stops. We plan on being in Butte before dark even with fuel, food and pee breaks. We have done that drive leasurely and seeing the sites before so this day is just a travel day, not a site seeing day.

 

 

 

Then from Butte we will depart 7/15 after breakfast by about 7 am. and head to Kalispell MT. which is about a 3-1/2 hr drive. This is where we consider the "vacation" to start. We would like to hike and site see in that area for that afternoon and maybe the next morning.

 

 

 

Then on 7/16 we will head to Invermere BC by way of 93 and cross the border there at Roosville. Again a shorter drive day of about 4 hours so lots of time for site seeing and activities.

 

 

 

From there we head to Banff on 7/17 which is only a 2 hour or so drive, so again we have plenty of time to enjoy the area. We stay in Banff for 2 nights and Lake Louise is mandatory for my daughter and her best friend. Again, 2 full days to see the area, hike, climb, shop, be a tourist.

 

 

 

Then on 7/19 we head to a place called Revelstoke BC. It supposed to be beatiful and a great Rock Climbing area. My daughter is a big climber and is crazy excited to see this legendary climbing spot.

 

 

 

From there on 7/20 we heads to Vancouver BC for 2 nights. Shopping, dining, tourism is the agenda there. I plan on drinking while the wife and kids are spending my money.

 

 

 

Then on 7/22 we head to Victoria BC for a day so the wife can see the Gardens.

 

 

 

7/23 we head from Victoria to Seattle for 2 nights, again, like Vancouver, me drinking, them oogling and spending.

 

 

 

7/25 we leave Seattle and head towards home with maybe a day, or part of one in Portland, a night in Redding or Yreka Ca. and then home on 7/27 or so.

 

 

 

Busy schedule, pretty quick pace I know. But we usually look at trips like this as time together and some cool sights. We have usually done these trips and then returned to our favorite spots later for longer trips. Consider it a long and costly "scouting" trip.

 

 

 

Any ideas for must see spots along the way there are welcome....

 

Forgot to mention, we have Best Western and BW + hotels booked from Kalispell to Seattle. We have not booked an spot in Butte MT. because we know that is a big first day and if we are just too tired we can cut it short in Idaho Falls or something. Same with the drive from Seattle home. We are keeping it flexible and there are usually no shortage of roadside Hotels along the I-5.

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Danny caddyshack Noonan

Vancouver

Calipano Suspension Bridge

 

Well spit, not sure what's wrong with that but, I think most anyone can figure it out.

In general, I like the outskirts of touristy places. Enjoy the Fraser River valley and the log rafts....assuming they still do that.

 

Also, between Vancouver and Seattle, go buy a pot and a bottle of white wine. Find a beach park with picnic/firepit accomodations somewhere (between Anacortes and Burlington there might still be one). Buy some clams fresh out of the water and enjoy.....if you like them, of course. There are a couple farms on the coast road just a little bit north of Burlington.

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Danny/Peter,

Big thanks for that website. That is definately on the list now. I had seen that before, but did not remember that it was in Vancouver.

Long rafts also sound great.

 

Thanks for the ideas.

Keep them coming folks.

 

Peter, my guess what you think is wrong with it is

A} LONG drive

B} Not on a bike

C} Not on a bike

....

 

I know the first day is scary to some, but we can do it easily.

 

After that first long day of driving all but one day is about 3 hrs or less so once up in MT. the drive will be easy.

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Danny caddyshack Noonan
Peter, my guess what you think is wrong with it is

A} LONG drive

B} Not on a bike

C} Not on a bike

....

 

Sorry, I meant the link. It won't go hot.

 

Doing much the same run N/B later that same week! Bike, solo. Probably going to spread it out if work allows. Did PNW with the fam years ago and one-hopped it, sunset departure, up and back to Mt. Vernon. Years of working mid-nights patrol kept me going, until just before dawn when it gets rough.

 

If you have time, also a side trip to Deception Pass on Whidbey Island is a cool stop (just north of the bridge take the pull-off) to watch boats and kayakers negotiating the tidal surge.

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So I have cemented some plans and thought I would check in and see what ideas you folks can add.

 

Then from Butte we will depart 7/15 after breakfast by about 7 am. and head to Kalispell MT. which is about a 3-1/2 hr drive. This is where we consider the "vacation" to start. We would like to hike and site see in that area for that afternoon and maybe the next morning.

Since you will get to Kalispell about noon, don't even try to go to Logan Pass - it will take in the range of 2-3 hours given traffic and construction. Grab some food to take with you (stop in Apgar or the Lake MacDonald Lodge to pick up something to go) and just do the Avalanche Lake trail. When you are done, it will be 4-5pm and the traffic will all be coming down from Logan Pass. Now head up the road to Logan Pass and walk to the Hidden Lake overlook. Don't worry; it won't be dark until 9:30pm. Enjoy the sunset (you will have an hour of twilight. Bring headlamps if you want!

 

Then on 7/16 we will head to Invermere BC by way of 93 and cross the border there at Roosville. Again a shorter drive day of about 4 hours so lots of time for site seeing and activities.

Actually there isn't much to see between Kalispell and Invermere. You could stop in Whitefish or take the little side trip to Kimberley, BC. It isn't very obvious, but if you stop at the Columbia Lake overlook, you are seeing the source of the Columbia River (which heads north from there). While in Invermere you may want to go up to the Radium Hot Springs BUT you will have to pay the National Park entry fee unless you walk the path along Sinclair Creek from the town of Radium Hot Springs.

 

The next morning you will have to get a National Park Pass when you head north on Hwy 93, which will be $19.60+tax Cdn per day (for the Family) for the 4 days you will be in the Parks. The main feature along the drive north will be the devastation from the 2003 fire. North of Vermillion Crossing as you look west you will get glimpses of the Rockwall.

 

From there we head to Banff on 7/17 which is only a 2 hour or so drive, so again we have plenty of time to enjoy the area. We stay in Banff for 2 nights and Lake Louise is mandatory for my daughter and her best friend. Again, 2 full days to see the area, hike, climb, shop, be a tourist.

 

I'll send a PM about the area. Don't miss the drive to Moraine Lake. At least once use Hwy 1A to go from Banff to Lake Louise.

 

Then on 7/19 we head to a place called Revelstoke BC. It supposed to be beautiful and a great Rock Climbing area. My daughter is a big climber and is crazy excited to see this legendary climbing spot.

Consider going up the drive the Mt Revelstoke - beautiful alpine meadows and a great look southwest at some of the highest peaks of the Selkirk Range, esp Mt Begbie.

From there on 7/20 we head to Vancouver BC for 2 nights. Shopping, dining, tourism is the agenda there. I plan on drinking while the wife and kids are spending my money.

In that case just go to Granville Island and sit in the brewery. If your daughter is into climbing, drive the Sea-to-Sky Highway as far as Squamish to watch climbers on the Squamish Cliffs, some of the best granite climbing in the world. Combine a gorgeous drive with watching climbers.

 

 

Mike Cassidy

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Thanks Mike. I will look into those places.

 

When I was laying out some of the plans to my daughter she asked if we were going to Lake MacDonald, I had not looked into that yet. So big thanks on that.

 

Also great input on the later start Avalanche trail.

 

Granville Island brewery sounds great. A cold beer and watching some serious granite wall climbing fits my bill. I am sure she would love to get some climbing, but she only climbs lower stuff. No full rigging cliff stuff yet, she just free climbs low and technical stuff for now, so seeing some big climbing would excite her.

 

My wife also wants to say thanks, she said these sound like good ideas. Very nice of you to take time out to help us out.

 

If you ever find yourself heading down to So Cal let me know, cold beer and some cool local rides or off the beaten path stuff on me.

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