My Biggest Dumb*** Move

[U-Turn]

99 R1100RT

 

Taking my tupperware off today to perform brake line maintenance and front shock replacement. Have done this once before with no problems. Today I, get this, broke off not one but both (left and right sides) of the fairing tabs at the bottom with the two holes that secure it to the shark fin piece (I think I have named that correctly).

 

I've done a lot of dumb things in my life but this has to rank right up there at the top of the list.

 

So naturally my first thought is I have to buy some used replacements. Found a left side in good shape (graphite color) on Beemer boneyard and almost clicked the buy button before I got a hold of myself to consider other possible options.

 

So, my question is (figure I am not the only one who has ever done this) are there any repair options available and/or what are the ramifications of just using the fairing panels as they are (i.e.- would it flap around in the wind, make noise, etc.?)

 

Any thoughts or suggestion would be appreciated...Bob

 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

It will depend upon where they broke. Nothing stops you from going with some epoxy, an aluminum or steel doubler on the back and seeing if it'll hold up. If not, then some fairly inconspicuous rivets through the plastic and doubler will certainly work.

When bonding plastic, look for one with a tenacious adhesive property but lower tensile strength. High tensile strength usually means brittle and is counter to the flexibility of the plastic and surface bonds often will just pop off when flexed. Abrade the back side agressively, coarse media, to increase the surface area and clean with alcohol.....acetone might not be good due to softening the plastic.

I've had success with Devcon plastic welder on the operators seat tab on a '99 but, I had safety wire keeping the parts from bending too much.

 

[LBump]

A few photos would help. I wouldn't say dumb... sh-- happens esp. with brittle plastic.

I would tend to do a resin, polymerization repair from the backside with a reinforcement of fiberglass and finish sand and paint. I would think it would hold up fine. You might want to consult with a good local body/paint guy and get his opinion. They do fiberglass repairs on Corvettes... might be some further tricks for reinforcement. It isn't as easy as replacement. If you do a repair; document and post would be great for others to see.

[Selden]

Plastex

[roger 04 rt]

I think I did the same thing you're describing. I ended up using a hair dryer to take some warp out of the plastic—which is what stressed it in the first place. After reshaping, first i glued it to the support beneath, and then to the main body where the seam is. I used JB Weld and fiberglass cloth to reinforce, in those two spots. There's a line at the repair but very hard to see.

 

Broken Fairing

[Twinsig]

I keep plastic epoxy and fiber glass cloth in stock for such occasions. And THIS RT is a real mule. Its a 20/20 bike. Twenty feet away and twenty miles an hour it looks great!

[g_frey]

Use JB weld and some fiberglas cloth on the inside of the break. If you can support it right while it cures it will hold up for years. The break will show as a thin line on the outside. Set up everything before hand and do a dry run. Then do the same on the unbroken tabs as preventative measure.

[dan cata]

Bob, did you break the big fairings or only the small shark fins fairings? What color is your bike?

 

I have a set of shark fairings left over from my bike that won't fit anymore since I mounted the police crashbars on it. If interested, let me know, they are the colored like a duck's egg, grey green stuff and are in perfect condition. You only pay for shipping.

 

Dan.

[U-Turn]

Bob, did you break the big fairings or only the small shark fins fairings? What color is your bike?

Dan.

 

Dan... I broke the fairing side, not the shark fin piece. Bike is the graphite color. Thanks for offering though.

[U-Turn]

Use JB weld and some fiberglas cloth on the inside of the break.

 

My concern is I do not have one clean break, rather a couple of pieces which I think is going to make it difficult to pursue this route. I will try and post some pictures.

[U-Turn]

A few photos would help. .

 

I have a few pictures ready to post, however I can't figure out how to post them. What is the procedure to be followed? Everything I have found says I need to link it to a url. I just have the pictures on my pc. Thanks

[schneeman]

had the same question a few days ago

you have to upload the pic to some internet host first, i used imageshack

free and fast, you probably want to decrease the resolution to about 1280×720 so that the upload is faster

once you upload a pic there you copy the direct link to the pic, then you just paste this link into the url link box you already found, and voila

cheers

 

[roger 04 rt]

Bob, From your photo on MOA, that's just like mine. And I see some heat damage to the inner piece. What I did was: use heat to take some heat warp out of the part underneath where it was originally welded, then glue/cloth the tab to the inner part. Wait for that to completely set, then glue/cloth the tab where it is broken to the main fairing. On the second step, put a good reinforcing layer of glue/cloth on the back side. RB

[aterry1067]

I wouldn't call it a dumb move either. Things happen. Good on you for doing your own work. Find a repair you are comfortable with, fix it, and add that skill to your bag of knowledge. Ride happy.

 

[breyfogle]

Another vote for Plastex, good stuff !

[U-Turn]

Here is a pic of the right side fairing damaged pieces:

 

 

Right Side Fairing Damage

[U-Turn]

Here is a pic of the left side broken piece. I have shown it in near proximity to where it attached to the fairing: Left Side Fairing Broken Piece

[JamesW]

Hi Bob,

You might check on Amazon for the Marson Poly Nut thread setter kit. I have used the Marson thread setter many many times to give depth of thread to plastic and metal flat pieces to allow attachment with 10/32 machine screws and other screw sizes. Amazon is selling the kit for $92 and imo it is well worth it to make clean professional repairs like you need and many other uses. I like it much better than rivets.

[Selden]

Here is a pic of the left side broken piece. I have shown it in near proximity to where it attached to the fairing: Left Side Fairing Broken Piece

Whoee, that's a mess. Are you sure you didn't mix up the left and right photos? In any case, Plastex would only be a start to get the pieces back together. Then epoxy for plastic, and fiberglass cloth on the inside surface to reinforce everything and give it some flexibility.

 

By the way, a couple of years ago there was a whole thread on Dumb*** moves. Mine included starting the bike, and forgetting that it was running. By the time I realized, the fairing was smoking. Fortunately, it was only 42°out, or I might have burned the house down on Christmas Eve.

 

[U-Turn]

Are you sure you didn't mix up the left and right photos?

 

By the way, a couple of years ago there was a whole thread on Dumb*** moves.

 

Yeah, pretty sure I did not mix them up. HeHe....that does my soul good. I have not done that one yet and now I am less probable to do it after hearing your story. Thanks for sharing..

[ESokoloff]

If you end up using a sheet-metal patch, I would suggest drilling holes in it to allow enhanced surface area for the glue to hold onto.

[PAS]

Exactly what material is the RT fairing made of? My 81 Rt is made of SMC ( sheet molded composite ) and requires an epoxy based fiberglass for permanent repair.

[U-Turn]

Exactly what material is the RT fairing made of? My 81 Rt is made of SMC ( sheet molded composite ) and requires an epoxy based fiberglass for permanent repair.

 

The RT fairing is made of PBT+PC thermoplastic material, which is a polycarbonate and polyester blend (trade name Xenoy). According to the book I just bought, this material is receptive to all the major plastic repair techniques except Hot Weld.