Paint the case lids?

[Rob L]

I am in the process of spiffing up the bike The weather sucks and since I dropped the bike Oct. 27th I figured it's time to do more than a quick tuneup. I replaced the left fairing panel, the front nose panel, the left valve cover, and the left mirror (thanks to the insurance co.) I replaced the shocks with Ohlins (37,000 miles on originals.) Then I bought a quart of paint

I repainted the engine spoiler, the right mirror housing, and the front fender. They were all scratched/marked up do to daily wear and tear. I had paint left so...I painted the left and right black covers that conceal the shock adjustments. Looks pretty good

Now I am debating...do I paint the top box and side case covers? Maybe paint the small trim pieces that hold the windshield in place? Am I getting carried away? Too much time on my hands?

I saw a bike painted this way at a tech session this summer in Grand Rapids, MI. Looked pretty good! I woder if I should do the same or go for the easy cleanup of the black parts instead

[big-t]

I repainted the engine spoiler, the right mirror housing, and the front fender. They were all scratched/marked up do to daily wear and tear. I had paint left so...I painted the left and right black covers that conceal the shock adjustments. Looks pretty good

Now I am debating...do I paint the top box and side case covers? Maybe paint the small trim pieces that hold the windshield in place?

 

 

The dealer had painted the side cases and the trim panels on mine when I purchased it.I replaced the trim panels with the standard black ones,because it looked like a Honda"Pacific Coast".

[Jerry Johnston]

I hesitate to paint the side cases on mine because I think the paint will show scuffs more than the black plastic.

[Rob L]

The dealer had painted the side cases and the trim panels on mine when I purchased it.I replaced the trim panels with the standard black ones,because it looked like a Honda"Pacific Coast".

Pacific Coast I was thinking more of the Gold Wing look Like I said, I may just have too much time and paint on my hands...still...Pacific Coast...Hmmmm

[big-t]

Pacific Coast I was thinking more of the Gold Wing look Like I said, I may just have too much time and paint on my hands...still...Pacific Coast...Hmmmm

 

 

 

Watch it!!!!!Pacific Coasts were known as "sissy bikes"

 

 

 

 

And before the flames start.....they turned out to be a pretty decent bike..

[Rob L]

Tough guys don't paint their bags

I on the other hand, might

Sometimes you just got to try new things

[Dietrich]

Hi there,

I had the side and top case lids painted to match the bike colour(Biaritz blue). Looks much better, no longer like add ons. Had the cases first painted with a primer/filler which took away the texture and any scratches and marks, then wet sanded and painted. Excellent job, well worth the money. Will see now how the paint stands up to my boots for scuffs.

[No_Twilight]

The previous owner painted the side case lids on my R1100RS cobalt blue. It looked very nice but scuffs were ugly. I found blue reflective 3M tape to cover them up with while adding reflectivity. Finally I laid it down and had to replace them. The used replacements were black with significant scuffs on them already. I put them on and think they look just as good and the scuffs aren't noticable from a few feet away. Realize that I'm at a point in life where I enjoy my truck because I can park it w/o worrying about dings. I polished sports cars for years and it's really enjoyable not to even wash the truck so perhaps 15 years ago I'd be saying "Paint them, by all means".

 

One thing I did to spiff my bike up was black valve covers. The dealer had a mis-order on sale and I picked them up since my valve covers looked like they'd been slid down the road for 150 ft or so with the full weight of the bike on them. Er, that's right. I guess they had. Mine is single spark but I think they're available for dual spark models too.

 

Cheers,

Jerry

[Rob L]

The previous owner painted the side case lids on my R1100RS cobalt blue. It looked very nice but scuffs were ugly. I found blue reflective 3M tape to cover them up with while adding reflectivity. Finally I laid it down and had to replace them. The used replacements were black with significant scuffs on them already. I put them on and think they look just as good and the scuffs aren't noticable from a few feet away. Realize that I'm at a point in life where I enjoy my truck because I can park it w/o worrying about dings. I polished sports cars for years and it's really enjoyable not to even wash the truck so perhaps 15 years ago I'd be saying "Paint them, by all means".

 

One thing I did to spiff my bike up was black valve covers. The dealer had a mis-order on sale and I picked them up since my valve covers looked like they'd been slid down the road for 150 ft or so with the full weight of the bike on them. Er, that's right. I guess they had. Mine is single spark but I think they're available for dual spark models too.

 

Cheers,

Jerry

I have the old valve cover hanging on the wall Reminder of what can happen. I did buy the protectors...after the accident...and after I scratched the right cover up in the driveway Covers up the damage nicely

i asked the real authority about painting the lids (Barb) she said GO For it! I know all about trying to keep a vehicle looking nice. I usually sell it because it is too difficult to take care of or I spend lots of time working on it. I promise to ride it even if it's crappy out Of course, that's how it got wrecked in the first place

[star57]

NO!!!... OK we all should know that the thicker an object is cutting trough the air, the more drag it creates...physics 101.

A bike without the side paniers painted is a faster bike.

Also let everyone know that if its a its even faster

[gezerbike]

Tough guys don't paint their bags

I on the other hand, might

Sometimes you just got to try new things

 

Against the advice of my Service Manager, I had my lids painted the factory Silver for a cost of $300....and then proceeded to scratch one ..........so I had it re-painted for another $ 150. My advice.........learn to like black lids........

[Francis]

Some types use truck bed liner "paint" to spruce up their lids.

[Nevets]

Check this guy out, he does beutiful work....

 

http://www.prismmotorcyclepainting.com/index.html

 

 

Do your top case while your at it...

 

[Aluminum_Butt]

My experience may not apply because, even though they're the same color as the bike, I don't know if the lids on my 04 GT are painted or somehow molded with the color in the material. But, I have a LOT fewer issues with scuffs than I did on my 04 RT (with black cases). I think it's mostly because I keep the GT cases waxed, and if I do manage to touch them, my boot just slides right off.

 

10K miles, and no visible scratches! Certainly couldn't say that for the RT.

[Dear_Leader]

I repainted my Aquamint (erk) bike to Black to match the panniers/top box. Far more practical and goes faster too ...

 

Paul

[John]

NO!!!... OK we all should know that the thicker an object is cutting trough the air, the more drag it creates...physics 101.

A bike without the side paniers painted is a faster bike.

Also let everyone know that if its a its even faster

 

A bike with the panniers painted will go faster because its smoother (less skin friction=less drag)

 

Red is the fastest colour, but silver is the most waterproof

 

Champagne gold causes TB synch to go out every 2000km, that's why there weren't many made

[Rob L]

Hi Steve! I saw that bike at tech daze and even got his card. That is where this idea comes from. I already painted the 2 black covers under the seat and have decided to paint the lids of both the top box and the side cases. I MAY paint the entire top box. Depends on how much trouble it is to do the hinges and whether I think the hinge paint will stay put.

[Hermanator]

My bike is a Limited Edition 1150 RT. It was supplied (at a premium) with the lids painted by BMW and quite a few others glossy bits. I've done 24000 miles and don't have any scratches on the painted lids. That is down to the fact that the un-painted city lids that are on the bike 95% of the time.

 

Below is a pic with the coloured lids and, below that, with the city lids. Personally, I think the painting of the lower and inner halves of the panniers is a bit of overkill. I quite like the two-tone look with the half and half paint job.

 

 

[RFW]

Be careful!

 

You need to know what plastic they are made from. If they are like the black cases on my ol' K100RT, then they are made of polypropylene, and NOTHING will stick to them well. Paint will easily flake off (think of what happens when you paint teflon!).

 

If they are ABS, then paint will adhere well.

 

If they are polycarbonate, then you need special paint that is intended to paint this material, because PC is very sensitive to solvents, and normal paint can cause weakening or even hairline cracking to occur.

 

Bob.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I hesitate to paint the side cases on mine because I think the paint will show scuffs more than the black plastic.

 

I don't know, my black plastic cases are getting pretty scuffed.

 

Not only that, but after 108K miles, they're a little sunbaked. I like the black color, though.

 

A couple of years ago I painted the windscreen trim pieces with Krylon's Fusion paint (specially for painting plastics). They had gone gray with age, but they looked spiffy with new black paint, and they've held up well since then in that tough location.

 

Has anyone painted their cases with this stuff?

[big-t]

I don't know, my black plastic cases are getting pretty scuffed

 

 

 

Duh,quit dragging them in the corners

[RFW]

I hesitate to paint the side cases on mine because I think the paint will show scuffs more than the black plastic.

 

I don't know, my black plastic cases are getting pretty scuffed.

 

Not only that, but after 108K miles, they're a little sunbaked. I like the black color, though.

 

A couple of years ago I painted the windscreen trim pieces with Krylon's Fusion paint (specially for painting plastics). They had gone gray with age, but they looked spiffy with new black paint, and they've held up well since then in that tough location.

 

Has anyone painted their cases with this stuff?

 

Krylon's Fusion paint is just a fancy name for "Lacquer". Nothing more, nothing less.

 

All lacquer paints use a very aggresive solvent (usually toluene or similar aromatics) to dissolve the paint pigment. This solvent also dissolves into the surface of many plastics, resulting on the paint bonding very strongly.

 

This works well with plastics like ABS, that are affected by aromatic solvents like toluene or xylene, but it does NOT work AT ALL for cases made from polypropylene, which BMW used commonly for black paniers. As I said in a previous post, this is like trying to paint teflon. No lacquer (including Krylon's "Fusion") can be used successfully to paint Polypropylene.

 

To test, get a tin of lacquer thinner (not "paint solvent" or "Varsol", or acetone; but actual "lacquer thinner"). Wet your finger thoroughly with the stuff and immediately press it against a non-visible area of the panier (such as the inside). Hold it there for 10 seconds or so. If you have left a fingerprint in the plastic, then it it can be painted successfully. If the result is NOTHING ....perfectly smooth plastic.... then there is no successful way to paint the bags. The bags are polypropylene, and paint will not adhere worth a damn.

 

Bob.

[rahbert]

I applied Mother's Back To Black to the windscreen trim,

the paniers, and the pannier mount rails. Looks like new.

 

Yes I learned to like the black..

[John]

Just take a look inside the case lid behind where the roundel/reflector goes. You'll find a matrix with the production date and a symbol >ABS<.

 

You can paint it.

 

As far as I know, all R11xx pannier lids are ABS. My K100RT way back in 1986 had pannier lids made from ABS, and painted up beautifully.

[RFW]

My K100RT way back in 1986 had pannier lids made from ABS, and painted up beautifully.

 

That's rather interesting. My own '86 K100RT's stock pannier lids (date stamped as being made in '86) have no plastic identifier at all, and are made of polypropylene. They cannot be painted successfully.

 

Bob.

[John]

Hi Bob,

I was looking for a photo to show you but don't have a digitised version. I remember the guy that painted the whole bike for me used Glasurit 2-pack enamel.

 

I once had a 1988 or 9 K100LT which, in Oz, came with colour matched panniers and top-box. Dunno if you got them over there.

 

All our Police bikes from about 1985 on had colour matched white city cases.

[RFW]

Hi Bob,

I was looking for a photo to show you but don't have a digitised version. I remember the guy that painted the whole bike for me used Glasurit 2-pack enamel.

 

I once had a 1988 or 9 K100LT which, in Oz, came with colour matched panniers and top-box. Dunno if you got them over there.

 

All our Police bikes from about 1985 on had colour matched white city cases.

John,

 

Funny you should mention Glasurit. I am right in the middle of a fairing repair (the main stand broke and the bike went over on its side onto concrete!). Here in North America, the only paint company that lists my color code and colour (Diamond Grey Metallic) is Glasurit (the OEM supplier to BMW).

 

So that's what I'm using to repaint the damaged panel with. The annoying part is that last year I repainted the entire bike (with Glasurit), and it looked GREAT ....until 4 months later the stand broke! I just LOOOVE fiberglass repair, especially when the "fiberglass" is Sheet Moulding Compund (SMC) as this bike's fairing is.

 

Regarding the Panniers, I was wrong about the covers being polypropylene. I just checked them this evening. It is the case itself (the part the cover attaches to), that is PP. You are right ....the outer cover is black ABS.

 

Bob.

[John]

Bob, I'm really surprised that Glasurit are the only company that can do the paint codes. I used a local GM dealer who uses the PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass???) system.

 

My little parking "incident" occured when my then 8 year old daughter let the clutch out a little too quickly and stalled the bike. Yes, I was on the back "assisting", and not quite quick enough to get my feet on the ground. Consequently the bike ended up on its left side, damaging the mirror and front guard

 

Anyway, sorry 'bout the thread drift but I thought you'd get a laugh.

[Rob L]

Bob, I'm really surprised that Glasurit are the only company that can do the paint codes. I used a local GM dealer who uses the PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass???) system.

Actually I bought the paint from a Dupont dealer. He used the Biarritz Blau paint code, 363, and BMW car code book and it matches perfectly.

I am in the middle of coating the bags. I think that you are right about the lids being a different material than the base of the cases. My top case lower section would not accept base coat. I started over and used a polyurethane 2 part sealer and will let you know if that works. If it doesn't, I'll have a very ugly case for sale

[RFW]

Bob, I'm really surprised that Glasurit are the only company that can do the paint codes. I used a local GM dealer who uses the PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass???) system.

 

John,

 

As it turns out, my hands are still a bit grey from spraying PPG Primer yesterday (I really like their "Prima K36" primer ....sands beautifully!), but PPG is unable to match the "Diamond Grey Metallic" that my bike is painted.

 

I think that other paint companies can often match a BMW bike colour, if it is also a colour used on one of their cars. But if no car was available in that particular colour, then apparently the only match is available from Glasurit, or RM (both are BASF companies). Unfortunately, some of the components used in the RM-Europe system are not available here in North America, so RM North America did not list my paint match. So the only choice was Glasurit, but that's OK, because it is terrific paint!

 

By the way, your "Parking Incident" reminds me of a similar thing that happened many years ago when I let an old girlfriend try a much smaller bike. In that case, she experienced her first wheelie!.

 

Bob.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I am in the middle of coating the bags. I think that you are right about the lids being a different material than the base of the cases. My top case lower section would not accept base coat. I started over and used a polyurethane 2 part sealer and will let you know if that works. If it doesn't, I'll have a very ugly case for sale

 

OK, so if I'm looking to paint my sidecases black, with minimal effort, and want to keep the original surface texture, what's the best solution that will provide something durable? Sounds like Fusion will work on the lids, but not on the inboard part of each sidecase? What would I use on that inboard part?

 

Don't currently have an air spray gun (but I have compressor and dryer), but I've sprayed with my dad's stuff a few times in the past, so I know roughly what's involved if I go that route. Would I have to get one, or are there spraycan products that will do the trick?

[Slartidbartfast]

OK, so if I'm looking to paint my sidecases black, with minimal effort, and want to keep the original surface texture, what's the best solution that will provide something durable? Sounds like Fusion will work on the lids, but not on the inboard part of each sidecase? What would I use on that inboard part?

Tried Krylon fusion on a spare topcase lid that was in need of cosmetic improvement. Not a good result! The paint scuffs and rubs through very easily. It did not appear to fuse with the plastic surface at all.

[Rob L]

OK, so if I'm looking to paint my sidecases black, with minimal effort, and want to keep the original surface texture, what's the best solution that will provide something durable? Sounds like Fusion will work on the lids, but not on the inboard part of each sidecase? What would I use on that inboard part?

 

Don't currently have an air spray gun (but I have compressor and dryer), but I've sprayed with my dad's stuff a few times in the past, so I know roughly what's involved if I go that route. Would I have to get one, or are there spraycan products that will do the trick?

If you have air and a dryer, why not buy a gun? A decent Develbiss is about $100 and can be used forever if you take care of it.

The Polyurethane 2 part sealer from Dupont worked great. The basecoat clearcoat system form Dupont worked well over the sealer and the cases look wonderful....except for a piece of crap that landed on the top case lid I'll sand it down and give it another go

[big-t]

Tried Krylon fusion on a spare topcase lid that was in need of cosmetic improvement. Not a good result! The paint scuffs and rubs through very easily. It did not appear to fuse with the plastic surface at all.

 

 

 

 

You will need to apply a bonding agent before spraying with any kind of paint.

 

Lightly sand the surface with 600 grit sandpaper or use a scotchbrite wheel to roughen the surface.Wipe or blow the the dust off and then clean the surfaces with Isopropyl alcohol.

 

Apply a coat of bonding agent(whatever brand you can find),you can pick this up at an automotive paint store.I think its available by itself or with primer included for sanding the surfaces smooth.

 

After the bonding agent is applied,the paint will stick.

[RFW]

Tried Krylon fusion on a spare topcase lid that was in need of cosmetic improvement. Not a good result! The paint scuffs and rubs through very easily. It did not appear to fuse with the plastic surface at all.

Not surprising, really. Spray bomb paint in general is not a good solution. It is diluted too much with thinners to get it to spray though the nozzle with the low pressure available in the can. You have to spray many coats to get reasonable film buildup. Spraying heavier coats just results in it running, since is is so highly diluted. Also, the degree of atomization is very coarse.

 

Most importantly, normal paint is catalysed now (you mix a hardener in it). Once sprayed, it chemically hardens to a very hard surface. Even automotive primers are catalysed these days.

 

By contrast, spray bomb paints like "Fusion" are simply lacquer-based paints. That means that tehy dry ONLY by evaporation of their thinner. They do not chemically harden.

 

Bob.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

You will need to apply a bonding agent before spraying with any kind of paint.

 

Lightly sand the surface with 600 grit sandpaper or use a scotchbrite wheel to roughen the surface.Wipe or blow the the dust off and then clean the surfaces with Isopropyl alcohol.

 

Isn't this going to trash the fine orange-peel texture of the cases?

 

Apply a coat of bonding agent(whatever brand you can find),you can pick this up at an automotive paint store.I think its available by itself or with primer included for sanding the surfaces smooth.

 

OK, so we are indeed talking about going for a smooth finish. Hm, will have to think about that.

 

After the bonding agent is applied,the paint will stick.

 

Should the bonding agent be applied to both halves of the case (outboard half being ABS, and inboard half being PP)?

[big-t]

 

Isn't this going to trash the fine orange-peel texture of the cases?

 

 

Just looking at a paint flyer and I see they also offer a bonding/scuffing agent all in one,so sanding should not be required if you use it.

 

 

 

Should the bonding agent be applied to both halves of the case (outboard half being ABS, and inboard half being PP)?

 

I'm questioning why would they make these cases out of different materials ??In Everything I have read they say PP is not paintable,but yet we see examples of the whole cases that are painted ??I'm guessing the inners are not PP,maybe someone can verify.

 

 

Mitch,I would check the local automotive paint store to see what brand they carry,then look up specifics of that brand on the net.

[RFW]

Should the bonding agent be applied to both halves of the case (outboard half being ABS, and inboard half being PP)?

It is pointless to try to paint polypropylene! No normal paint will adhere to it, and no "bonding agent" will affect it in the slightest. Stuff simply does not stick to ANY polyolefin (such as polyethylene, polypropylene or polybutylene). Even crazy glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive) manufacturers state clearly in their technical info, that this stuff won't adhere to polyolefins.

 

As for ABS, paint adheres well to ABS and no bonding agent is required at all.

 

However, the textured finish on the case covers can be a problem. I suggest scrubbing thoroughly with a fine pumice and a fine bristle brush to roughen the entire surface (including the "valleys" of the texture). If this is done thoroughly, there will be no need to sand the texture smooth (which would be a BIG hassle!).

 

Bob.

[RFW]

I'm questioning why would they make these cases out of different materials ??In Everything I have read they say PP is not paintable,but yet we see examples of the whole cases that are painted ??I'm guessing the inners are not PP,maybe someone can verify.

I can absolutely verify that at least on the older bikes like my K100RT, the inner cases ARE polypropylene, and the outer coves ARE ABS.

 

One may well question why different polymers are used, but question it is pointless, if for whatever reason, that is what was done.

 

Bob.

[big-t]

I can absolutely verify that at least on the older bikes like my K100RT, the inner cases ARE polypropylene, and the outer coves ARE ABS.

 

 

I suspect we are talking about "old versus new" If you look at the pictures on the previous page,they show the newer style bags equipped with city lids as used on the R11xx series.

 

They must not be polypropylene as they have accepted the paint rather well.

 

 

 

[John Diakonis]

O.K O.K. You can't have it both ways. It's either cheap and not durable or it's more expensive and lasting! Mitch, If you're looking for a solution on your case lids you might want to consider an epoxy primer in black. You will probably lose some texture but you'll have a low luster, durable finish.Or paint the cases black with a flattened eggshell clear over them. The spray cans, as someone else commented on have more propellant than paint in them meaning you'll have to apply several coats to acheive some kind of finish, but not as durable as a urethane. When I paint luggage or any parts, there is a system to be followed, products used in succession to assure superior adhesion and lasting beauty. Another thing, if you paint the cases, and if you scuff them it's very easy to polish them out vs a scuff in the bare plastic. http://prismmotorcyclepainting.com

[RFW]

Mitch, If you're looking for a solution on your case lids you might want to consider an epoxy primer in black.

No need at all for an epoxy primer. Any catalysed automotive primer will do the job beautifully (most now are catalysed acrylics). They adhere very well to ABS.

 

I stripped and repainted the ABS mirrors on my ol' K100RT (along with the rest of the bike) with PPG's "Prima K36" primer (and its associated hardener/catalyst) before the color coat. This is one of PPG's standard automotive primers. Beautiful stuff to work with!

 

The result was that the paint has stuck like sh to a blanket! Paint adherance to the ABS mirrors was at least as good as to the rest of the bike (which is to say "excellent").

 

To retain as much of the initial texture as possible, do not sand the cases, but instead, thoroughly scrub them with fine pumice and a bristle brush. This will get the the bottom of the texture "bumps" without taking the "tops" off the texture. Then use only a light coating of primer, and when dry, repeat the pumice work in preparation for the color coat. Be sure to rinse thoroughly with clean water and a little dish detergent (nothing stronger!) before each painting stage. Preparation is 99% of a successful paint job!

 

Bob.

[John Diakonis]

An epoxy primer is much more resistant to the weather and a much better moisture barrier than a high build catalyzed primer like PPG K 36 that is intended to be sanded smooth prior to paint.Epoxy primer is a very "low" build primer allowing the texture to show. It is very tenacious!

[RFW]

An epoxy primer is much more resistant to the weather and a much better moisture barrier than a high build catalyzed primer like PPG K 36 that is intended to be sanded smooth prior to paint.Epoxy primer is a very "low" build primer allowing the texture to show. It is very tenacious!

I understand your point (especially regarding the film thickness of K36), but one thing to remember is that epoxy paints are rather susceptible to UV. If the color coat is truly opaque, then no problems.

 

Maybe I just have bad memories of a product we made once where a co-worker specified epoxy ppowder paint on. It was constantly exposed to strong sunlight, and was a disaster! The paint degraded terribly. The guy wasn't aware of this shortcoming of epoxies. In that case, subsequent products were painted with polyester powder paint and that ended the problem.

 

Bob.

[kinchy]

Took the stock covers and city covers to the body shop. Had them all painted Biarritz Blue. Cost-$290

Been a year, they look great and I haven't noticed any blems or pitting. Only issues, getting the correct paint code and waiting 5 weeks for the final product.

[bmuuEd]

You could try polishing them. It takes some time, but with a 5" dual action air sander it can be done. Start with 220 grit or so and work through the grades to end up with ultra fine and hand buff. You probably won't get a high shine. Or, stop with a rougher finish and buff. This may end up looking like crap and then you can pop for some decent used ones. If it comes out looking good, it's easy to "touch up".

[Rob L]

Finally After 3 weekends spent sanding and painting and resanding and repainting...I finally am satisfied with the job

Looks kinda like a Goldwing that can hustle thru the corners don't it

The bags came out pretty decent for an amateur working in a dirty garage in the winter

Yeah that's my plate #! Please don't steal the bike now, too much work to do again

Just waiting for a couple of parts to return from the powdercoater.

I had the homemade radar shelf, water bottle holder, and the carbon canister/turned cargo net holder coated in satin black. I am still going to send the side and center stand out for gloss black coating. OK time for a refreshment and football on the tube Thanks for the help and opinions

[Ken/OC]

Ooooooooooh that's purty! Now how would that all look in black.... ??? Great job!