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OEM Brake Line Replacement


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99 R1100RT

 

I am about to start the job of replacing my OEM brake lines with stainless from Galfers. My question: Is there a special procedure to be followed for re-filling and bleeding the brake system from a completely empty state as opposed to the procedure used for normal bleeding with fluid already in the system?

Any help, guidance, or references to this type of procedure would be appreciated. Thanks...Bob

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I bled from the master cylinder to the ABS module and then once that was clear bled the calipers, worked for me. BMW recommends bleeding the calipers with the pistons retracted (use an appropriate-sized piece of wood) and that's probably a good idea because it helps purge any debris in the caliper fluid chambers, but the world won't end if you don't.

 

You're going to love the difference with the braided lines, it makes for a very noticeable improvement. If it doesn't then keep bleeding because there's probably some air left in the lines.

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I am researching teflon brake lines for my 2004 R1150RT. I am of the belief that off the shelf lines can be had for way less than a ready made 200 buck set. I am counting 4 for the front and one for the rear. Question is what are the threads and what are the required lengths. I am assuming AN-3 lines. There are also adapters available to get to the right size. I discerned the straight and right angle ends needed from a BMW brake picture showing line routing. As I am new to these bikes, if someone with greater knowledge could chime in I would appreciate it.

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99 R1100RT

 

I am about to start the job of replacing my OEM brake lines with stainless from Galfers. My question: Is there a special procedure to be followed for re-filling and bleeding the brake system from a completely empty state as opposed to the procedure used for normal bleeding with fluid already in the system?

Any help, guidance, or references to this type of procedure would be appreciated. Thanks...Bob

 

If you haven't bought the Galfers already, you may wish to look at Spieglers. Ask Keith (OOPeeZoo [sp?]) about his Galfers experience. I believe that they don't fit the stock front bracket assembly like the Spieglers.

 

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I am researching teflon brake lines for my 2004 R1150RT. I am of the belief that off the shelf lines can be had for way less than a ready made 200 buck set. I am counting 4 for the front and one for the rear. Question is what are the threads and what are the required lengths. I am assuming AN-3 lines. There are also adapters available to get to the right size. I discerned the straight and right angle ends needed from a BMW brake picture showing line routing. As I am new to these bikes, if someone with greater knowledge could chime in I would appreciate it.

 

Something like this maybe.

 

 

http://www.debrix.com/Braided-Stainless-Steel-Brake-Hose-10-Foot-2-use-p/49718-M1.htm?gclid=CMLKtIiY_LQCFQUFnQodhxQA7g

 

 

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You can reduce the "mess" and avoid a dry system by trapping the fluid in the system. Just pump the lever and open a bleeder at the caliper, just like when bleeding the brakes. But do not let the lever return, just tie it back with a cable tie. This will trap the fluid in the master reservoir. Now install the new lines, suck the old fluid from the reservoir, and commence bleeding using your favorite method. Works same on the rear too. On a car or truck I use a broomstick cut to hold down the pedal when wedged to the seat.

Cheers

Steve 01GS 78S

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I just put spieglers on my 1100. Replacing the brakes lines was really just a straight forward remove/replace task, so long as everything fits like it should. I replaced all my lines, then filled the reservoirs and began the bleeding process. Just be careful not to bleed the reservoir completely dry, or you will have to start all over with the bleeding process. That sucks, and I did it more than once. Grrrr. Just for the sake of argument, I use a vacuum hand pump to bleed the brakes.

 

Hope it all goes well.

 

Good luck.

 

 

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I replaced all my lines, then filled the reservoirs and began the bleeding process.

 

 

So it sounds like you basically drained your entire system, including the reservoir, when you took your old lines off?

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You can reduce the "mess" and avoid a dry system by trapping the fluid in the system.

 

Thanks for this info. I like this idea and I am coming to the conclusion after reading all the posts that you can do it either way (going completely dry vice keeping fluid in the reservoir), however retaining fluid in the reservoir makes the bleed process more efficient and possibly less messy than going dry.

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