Fraidycat Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 This 'search' produces 1500 posts---none of which was the instruction sheets I was thinking existed somewhere here? Can anyone give me that link? Link to comment
NoHeat Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/TBS4Dv1.0.pdf Link to comment
Danny caddyshack Noonan Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 What John, above, said but also go to the folder level of that doc and you get a veritable wealth of information....mostly written tongue in cheek. ADVRIDER.COM Wisdom Files peruse away Edit: There is also this tool for doing a TBS, that I don't have that is getting praises. Harmonizer Link to comment
philbytx Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 The ADVRIDER doc is really geared towards that darned Frog electrickery contraption but you can get the gist of it from there. You would be better off with a manometer or, IMHO, a Morgan Carbtune Link to comment
David13 Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Phil, have you used the Harmonizer? Have you even tried it? It is amazingly simple to use. It basically has no moving parts. That is why it is the best as far as me, an official Dummy, is concerned. dc Link to comment
philbytx Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 Hi David, No....I'm always up for the latest and greatest but I've continued to use my Morgan Carbtune for the past 10 years. Works great. Link to comment
mrduck Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 REDNECK TB SYNC! Here's all ya need..... 3/16ths tubing, a stick, and a little fluid- I prefer a shot of 2-stroke oil. Pull out the Big Brass Screws first, give the opening a good drowning with injector cleaner, put 'em back in at 1 and a half turns. Go ride around the block to get things warm. Hook up the tubes then adjust the right side cable only to get the fluid level as even as possible. This crude manometer is way more sensitive so ya only gotta get close. My cheap advice for the day Don J Link to comment
Twinsig Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Keeps the fluid from running into the engine, i had worn out tb,s at the time, couldn't get it to sync http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff191/sheepdog222/Beemer/20120414_1606.jpg[/img]] Link to comment
Danny caddyshack Noonan Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Another upside to the Harmonizer or Twinmax is that you can run down the road and check the balance under load. Link to comment
philbytx Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 You can also ride the bike with the Morgan Carbtune, which doesn't need a battery. Unlike that darn Frog piece of Electrickery....the Twinmax Link to comment
tomk99r11 Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 The TwinMax works well for many of us. The continual rant is comical. But, whatever works is what each of us should use. Link to comment
cavediver Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Twinsig; That's one fine looking manometer. I might just build one of them. I just replaced the right throttle bdoy on my 04RT. I was going to buy one, but homemade is always better. What did you use for fluid? If you don't mind me asking. Jack Link to comment
philbytx Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 Yes! I agree, each to his own....but that bloody French overlycomplicated thingamajig DOES need a battery for it to work correctly. And we all know that battery voltage is constant, right? Yeah! I know...but I'm a Brit and we generally despise the French LOL! Link to comment
Tobias Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I've had a lot of success with a manometer similar to mr duck's set up. My problem is that since I'm not very fast getting it dialed in I need a big box fan in front of the engine. Link to comment
Twinsig Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 its transmission fluid, more visible. the PVC tubes are a bit large (1-1/4")and a bit long, smaller would work the lower clear tubing is 3/8" with the correct PVC adapters upper clear tubing is of course 1/8" Link to comment
cavediver Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Twinsig thanks I was thinking transmission fluid. I'll build one with the pvc just large enough to hold the fluid and let flow go by. I have lots of 1-1/4" around here maybe 8-10" should work fine. jack Link to comment
Selden Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 I'm a dummy who can never remember which direction to turn the cable adjuster, so I put a piece of yellow tape on the tank, just above the right hand throttle body: Link to comment
GrayNFast Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Now that is clever. Looks like I need to add that to my manometer this weekend. Link to comment
nrp Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Yeah - but now I need another one to tell me which way to look at it - from the top, or from the bottom..... Link to comment
aceaceca Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Selden, I need a pic that tells me if the column goes up or down when the cable is adjusted cc or c. I read everything I could find about adjusting the t/b's and still had to figure it out on my own. Mine were way off and the right bank was going to suck all the ATF from my gauge if I did not catch it first. I determined a couple of things while doing this. 1. Both t/b's must return to full seating on the throttle stop at all times.If not you are hanging on the cable and idle will not be repeatable. 2. If you cannot get part throttle balance by adjusting the right side cable slacker,clockwise, you have to go back and slacken the left side and then repeat. 3. This is when you start from baseline of both t/b's just on their throttle stops. 4. It takes a very slight turn of the cable to bring things into sync. and tightening the jam nut changes things. 5. The red neck manometer is very slow to react to changes so you have to be patient with it. 6. One revolution of the cable nut is only about 6 thousands of t/b movement. It is deceiving. 7. Item 2 is very important as you must always have the t/b's returning to the throttle stop position. I got mine to be very close at part throttle and spot on dropping onto idle. One can still feel a slight tendency to surge under the right conditions but ever so much better than when they were way out of sync. Link to comment
Selden Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Selden, I need a pic that tells me if the column goes up or down when the cable is adjusted cc or c.... 4. It takes a very slight turn of the cable to bring things into sync. and tightening the jam nut changes things. I have a Twinmax, but the principle is the same; if the height of the column rises, it's pulling more vacuum on that side, so you just need to make the arrows point up and down, rather than left right. Having tweaked the tb sync 2 days ago, I can confirm both points. To make turning the adjuster easier, I slipped a 6-side brass fitting over the knurled adjuster, giving me me a visual reference for rotation. Using a Dremel cutter, I made a slot in one face, spread the gap a little with a screwdriver, then slipped it over the adjuster and squeezed it tight with a pair of pliers. Link to comment
Bud Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 This 'search' produces 1500 posts---none of which was the instruction sheets I was thinking existed somewhere here? Can anyone give me that link? http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/r1100_throt_bod_sync.shtml Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.