What's the best engine oil?

[Jimmy D]

I have a 2010 RT1200, miles are only 5,000

was told not to use synthetic yet..

Any news on the Liqui-Moly oil yet from Germany??

 

[Paul Mihalka]

After running a few bikes to close to 200K each on the most common ordinary oils without any engine problems "what's the best engine oil" is not a critical question for me.

[upflying]

warning, warning, oil thread alert

The best oil is the correct viscosity when it's on sale

[moshe_levy]

The great BMW sage Tom Cutter once told me - "The best type of oil is: enough."

 

-MKL

[Jimmy D]

I agree! (i think?)

What your saying is change it often..

[markgoodrich]

I agree! (i think?)

What your saying is change it often..

 

No, no one said that. Look in your owner's manual, it will describe exactly what type oil you should use. It will probably recommend Castrol, but so long as you get the right viscosity and letter grade (or higher) you'll be good, no matter the brand. Pay no attention to any other marketing statements.

 

Don't change it any more often than the owner's manual recommends.

 

 

[Jimmy D]

I ride winter and summer in New England.. The Delta T from winter to summer is quite a bit. If i do as BMW service manual ask then i should change the oil 2x a year based on using the correct viscosity on their chart.(right?)

[2SlowDave]

I can only share my experience, which while true, will surely be discounted in short order.

For the first 20k miles, my '01 1150GS would consume about one quart of dino oil every 2k miles. I was ignorant and concerned. Multiple peeps said this is not unusual.

Sure enough, the oil consumption tapered off around 20k.

That's when I shifted over to synthetic.

I have 80k now and it still consumes a small amount of oil(6oz/2k).

 

OK, now prepare yourself for controversy.

During the dino oil, break-in period, I figured if it takes 5qts of oil instead of 4 to complete 2k, I could add another 500 miles before changing the oil.

Now, with High Mileage Synthetics, it begs the question,

How many miles between oil changes now? I'm certain the answer is more than 2k.

If one quart costs 50% more then dino, then I'm getting 50% more mileage before I change it.

Rightly or wrongly, I'm holding the cost per mile steady.

There, the secrets out!

Don't worry, my bikes not for sale.

[Bologna]

[upflying]

. The Delta T from winter to summer is quite a bit.

I had to look up the translation.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_DELTA_T

 

[dirtrider]

Morning Jimmy

 

Look in your riders manual around page 148 & 149. It should show the proper BMW recommended oils to use. A quick look in the BMW 2010RT rider manual it looks like 10w40 is good for -20c (-4f) up (no high cut-off temp given). Same with 10w50 (but 10w50 is usually only available in synthetic)

 

It also says the following: "Engine oils of API classification SF or better.

Engine oils of ACEA classification A2 or better.

 

"BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic

oils for the first 10000 km."

 

Note: it says "oils of API classification SF or better". It doesn't say HIGHER it says BETTER. This is a bit open to interpretation but to me BETTER means just that (BETTER oil) not necessarily a higher classification letter. For most motorcycle use an SG rated oil is BETTER than a SL or SM oil but that is again open to interpretation as some SL & SM do contain higher ZDDP levels & some SG oils are sub par. Also some modern oils are pretty darn good for ZDDP protection but can't get a REAL SG rating as the SG rating is obsolete.

 

When it comes to modern motorcycle oil, research is the key word not marketing hype.

 

[Jimmy D]

Delta T is the difference in temperature..

(sorry im a heating contractor and its a term we use alot)

 

The question is if we ride summer and winter based on the BMW's service manual temp chart we then should at least change oil 2x a year.. (according to the area i live)

[tallman]

BMW recommendations for service are based on mileage and time.

 

If you don't accumulate the miles, go by the time.

[Jimmy D]

Thanks Dirtrider!

I been staring at those pages in the manual for a while... Could not get a good feeling on the interpretation of what they were requiring.. when i called the dealer they said Castrol does not sell the oil BMW request in their service manual in the USA.. The dealer recommends useing 20/50 BMW oil that they sell.

 

The bike is still under warranty and wanted to dot all my i's and cross all my t's, since i don't want to pay them $175.00 to change my oil for me.

[Mister Tee]

Well, I won't tell you what oil is BEST but I'll tell you what oil I USED. For the first 10K I used mineral 20-50. After that I used an automotive grade synthetic 20-50.

 

Problem is, you don't know if an oil is "bad" or if it's less than optimal until 100K or more. If you plan on running your bike to 200K or 300K, you will probably be better off using a good quality synthetic.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Jimmy

 

You really need to have your dealer SHOW YOU in writing where BMW says it's OK to use a 20w50 oil in your camhead motorcycle. It sure isn't listed in your riders manual as OK.

 

Just because they sell it to uninformed riders doesn't make it OK.

 

In any case, you aren't ready for synthetic oil yet & 20w50 dino oil won't even take you down to 32°f as 15Wxx only takes you to 0°c (32°f) so 20w anything will be even higher.

 

[Blind Squirrel]

[BerndM]

I have NEVER had an issue with ANY vehicle I own(ed) (5 motorcycles, 4 cars, and a boat) using Walmart's store brand oils.

I use standard 20-50wt oil in the motor and synthetic GL-5 in the trans and FD.

BTW, is use K&N KN-164 oil filters too.

 

 

[RTinNC]

Afternoon Jimmy

 

You really need to have your dealer SHOW YOU in writing where BMW says it's OK to use a 20w50 oil in your camhead motorcycle. It sure isn't listed in your riders manual as OK.

 

Just because they sell it to uninformed riders doesn't make it OK.

 

In any case, you aren't ready for synthetic oil yet & 20w50 dino oil won't even take you down to 32°f as 15Wxx only takes you to 0°c (32°f) so 20w anything will be even higher.

 

Yep ... just had my 600 mile service done on my 2012 R1200GSA and they used BMW dino 10W-40. I asked them if 10/40 was what the I should use and they said yes. I have always used BMW 20w-50 in my 2002 R1150GS and my 2006 R1200RT. But they said 10/40 goes in the camhead. So I bought a case of 10/40 and will follow what BOTH the manual and service tech. say. And I did ask the Tech not the sale person. Since I only put 4-6,000 on each of my bikes annually I change my oil about 2-3 times on each. I am very anal and usually go no more than 2,500 or 3,000 MAX miles between changes. But that is ME ... the same guy who cleans his bike after every ride.

[Jimmy D]

Thanks RTinNC!

Glad to hear that.. I have been on line searching also reading the service manual and I concluded the same thing! (10W-40 non-synthetic)

Not sure if anyone has seen the Castrol / BMW web page with a list of all BMW motorcycles and the recommended oils to use? (BMW listed on Castrol's web page page (10W-50) www.castrol.com/uk

They also lised Act>Evo 20w-50 as a 2nd option. (these both are synthetic oils)

My plan at this time is to use a reputable(Valvoline) 10W-40 non-synthectic motorcyle oil from a Walmart or a Auto Zone and change it every 2 to 3,000 miles.. And after my bike hits 6,000 + miles use the Castrol 10W-50 or 10W-40 as recommended by the BMW service manual and also the web page Castrol has provided for BMW motorcycles. (Castrol did not list a non-synthectic oil)

[dirtrider]

Morning Jimmy

 

You might look into Castrol 10w40 4T. In my research that Castrol 4T always comes near the top of the list for non synthetic oil BMW usage as it is blended for motorcycle usages & has a good deal of ZDDP additives as well as carries a real API SG rating. It also has a good amount of seal conditioners to prevent seal leakage.

 

[Guest Kakugo]

Whatever you choose, don't be swayed by old greybeards and doomsayers saying you "cannot" run an engine on fully synthetic oil.

The synthetics we've had available for over a decade now are completely different animals from those we had in the '80s.

BMW here says any oil meeting JASO MA or MA2 specs can be used in their engines regardless of mileage. So just pick whatever you fancy the most and meets those specs.

[Dennis Andress]

Well it depends...

 

Any oil is better then none.

Any clean oil is better then dirty.

Wet clutches hate oil additives. That includes oil that claims to improve gas mileage.

 

If the oil can't handle the what the engine is doing it will quickly lose viscosity. This is especially true with wet clutch engines and transmissions that use engine oil. An example is my K1300 S. I've used Rotella-T in it once or twice. The clutch would squeal loud enough to make my wallet cringe if I slipped it a little when leaving the line. The squeal is almost gone when using BMW's oil.

 

 

So, what's the best oil? Why the oil that works of course. For BMWs with a dry clutch there are a lot of oils that are perfectly fine.

[taters]

Don't know, but I just bought a 2012 tiger 800. I just brought it in for the 500 mile service.

They changed the oil and put in castrol synthetic.

[doc47]

Wildroot Cream Oil...........Charlie!

[Paul Mihalka]

Wildroot Cream Oil...........Charlie!

That's what you used in The Gambia?

[Fubar]

The best oil is the stuff that's in the bike. Outside of the bike won't help.

[upflying]

Wildroot Cream Oil...........Charlie!

I had to look that up. My dad used Vitalis.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJlnAugXSRk

[SuperG]

Well it depends...

 

I've used Rotella-T in it once or twice. The clutch would squeal loud enough to make my wallet cringe if I slipped it a little when leaving the line. The squeal is almost gone when using BMW's oil.

 

could be very true, certain brand clutch & friction plates may not like rotella T, but many do and many riders swear by it. It is what team KTM was pouring into their bikes - when nobody was lookin' - during "24 HOURS OF GLEN HELEN" race.

I pick whatever synth is on sale at the bigbox store.

But if you have to ask, you better stick with what BMW say or sells.

 

oil tread....heheheeehhhee...just put the slippery kind (oil) in it.

[Big_John]

Thanks RTinNC!

Glad to hear that.. I have been on line searching also reading the service manual and I concluded the same thing! (10W-40 non-synthetic)

Not sure if anyone has seen the Castrol / BMW web page with a list of all BMW motorcycles and the recommended oils to use? (BMW listed on Castrol's web page page (10W-50) www.castrol.com/uk

They also lised Act>Evo 20w-50 as a 2nd option. (these both are synthetic oils)

My plan at this time is to use a reputable(Valvoline) 10W-40 non-synthectic motorcyle oil from a Walmart or a Auto Zone and change it every 2 to 3,000 miles.. And after my bike hits 6,000 + miles use the Castrol 10W-50 or 10W-40 as recommended by the BMW service manual and also the web page Castrol has provided for BMW motorcycles. (Castrol did not list a non-synthectic oil)

 

 

 

I have decided to go with 10w40.... But a synthetic. Royal Monarch 10w40 has super high additives that meet Ducati racing spec.

 

 

 

 

[waynerd]

I have decided to go with 10W40

 

Hey John,

 

The bulk of the posts in this thread are referring to camhead boxer engines (2010-2013 RT's). I think they have slightly different recommendations for oil weights. Looking at the manual for our 2004's, 10W40 is an acceptable weight for oilheads, but its temp range is kinda limited, -4 deg F to +68 deg F. I know we're heading into fall/winter riding season, but plenty of 70 and 80 deg days left. Unless you are planning a bunch of riding in sub 5 deg F weather, I think a 15W50 covers our front range temps a little better.

[Big_John]

I have decided to go with 10W40

 

Hey John,

 

The bulk of the posts in this thread are referring to camhead boxer engines (2010-2013 RT's). I think they have slightly different recommendations for oil weights. Looking at the manual for our 2004's, 10W40 is an acceptable weight for oilheads, but its temp range is kinda limited, -4 deg F to +68 deg F. I know we're heading into fall/winter riding season, but plenty of 70 and 80 deg days left. Unless you are planning a bunch of riding in sub 5 deg F weather, I think a 15W50 covers our front range temps a little better.

 

I agree with you on all counts, but I'm a fan of Royal Monarch because of their really high Flash and I think today's high performance synthetics rewrite the book a bit. I would not use a conventional 10w40 ...... Or a cheap synthetic. I also have Royal Monarch 15w50 and might give it a try next spring. But I have 1,500 miles on this 10w40 and love it....responsive and smooth.

[Dieter30]

I use this one .... because I know that everything runs smoothly. Never had any problems with it.

[Fathom]

 

 

I have found (and just swapped in) LiquiMoly 15W50 (15W50 being the current recommendation for my 2013 camhead RT) just in advance of the 12K service. I have also swapped in the appropriate weight of LiquiMoly Gear oil and final drive oil, and noticed an immediate difference (improvement) in gear engagement and overall performance. As far as I've been able to determine, the LiquiMoly products meet or exceed the specs put forth by BMW, and I really like the results I've seen this far.

[John in VA]

Can't go wrong with this:

 

BMW 15w50 HP Engine Oil - Semi Synthetic

 

But note: Chemical ingredient can cause "canser." So don't drink it. You have been warned.