Fork seals & shocks

[Stephen_Chase]

Very shortly I plan to replace the fork seals & shocks on my '96 R1100RT. The issue I intend to solve is a really spongy front end that causes the bike to pitch forward nearly every time I shift. How this happened I don't know, but I think it arose when the shipper (PMI-Allied) tied the bike too firmly on its trip from Denver to Maine. It alo has a slight leak from the top of the left fork tube.

 

So, I have a new set of Ohlins and new fork seals for both forks. I am looking forward to the task, but if there's any advice, I would appreciate it.

SC

[Voyager]

Stephen, I'm in the middle of the fork seals job with no particular issues. Toughest areas were loosening the lower fork bridge bolts (factory loctite I think) and stripping one of the brake line bracket screws (stripped the allen head). The top bolts on the steering head were fairly easy. I didn't remove the tupperware, just put a shower shoe between the wrench & plastic. The counter nut is an odd size and narrow but I was able to use channel locks instead of buying an extra wrench (because they loosened rather easily) I used a 1.25" socket as a seal driver. I think a mag light would work as well. Remove the round spring on the side you are driving until it is seated to prevent chewing it up, then put it back when done. Oh yea, you'll need something to measure the oil (.45 Liter per side) Both the vent screw and the drain bolt have rubber seals (tiny O-rings) which probably need to be replaced if you open them. I'm on my way to the hardware store for them and some more loctite now. Good luck!

[Stephen_Chase]

Hi All,

Further to the forks seal & front shocks replacement: The disassembly task went well except for following:

* locktite on just about everything made the task much harder than it really should be (brake caliper mounting bolts, handlebar mounting bolts, fork bridge bolts). The right fork removal was simple.

 

But, I could not remove the left fork because I stripped the head of the tiny bolt holding the brake line & ABS line to the lower fork tube. I'll get that later with a special tool. Why BMW would use a bolt that stripped so easily escapes me.

 

While I am at it: I hope I never have a flat any distance from home because front wheel removal require the whole shop full of tools!!

 

All for now.

Stephen

[Voyager]

But, I could not remove the left fork because I stripped the head of the tiny bolt holding the brake line & ABS line to the lower fork tube. I'll get that later with a special tool. Why BMW would use a bolt that stripped so easily escapes me.

 

I think we both stripped the same bolt. Mine came off with some needle nose vice grips on the protruding head. It does seem a silly choice of fastener given its exposure to the elements and dissimilar metals, but then I think every allen screw on my R1100 should be about twice the size it is.

 

Anyway, mine is all back together & feels much better on the road.

[KMG_365]

For the front Öhlins shock you might want to have your tap and die set on hand. I've had to "chase the threads" on three different Öhlins front shocks to get the BMW factory nut to thread back onto the new threaded post. They must have to cut the little facets on the sides after the piece was threaded and I don't how it happens, but the threads are bunged up just enough to make it hard to keep from cross-threading the nut during re-assembly.

[Stephen_Chase]

You are right about that! However, after "fiddling" a bit I was fortunate to have the nut thread on. After the facets were exposed I was able to hold the post with a 5 mm or 6 mm open end while I tightened the nut.

[No_Twilight]

Hi All,

 

But, I could not remove the left fork because I stripped the head of the tiny bolt holding the brake line & ABS line to the lower fork tube. I'll get that later with a special tool. Why BMW would use a bolt that stripped so easily escapes me.

 

While I am at it: I hope I never have a flat any distance from home because front wheel removal require the whole shop full of tools!!

 

All for now.

Stephen

 

Stephen,

The forks have no effect on your handling, that is all the shock so if you don't get to change the one seal, that should be no big deal. Your problem has to be your shock.

 

As for the front tire, the only tool I need that isn't in the toolbag is a torquewrench...you can get home w/o one but be sure to torque the axle bolt as I'm told it preloads the wheel bearing.

 

--Jerry

[Stephen_Chase]

Further to the fork seal exercise: I can report that the replacement of the seals and dust cover & reinstallation was an easy task, as cited by Sid & others. Almost as easy as the BMW manual says.

 

I removed the recently stripped small alloy screw holding the brake line with a stainless 8mm Allen head bolt, same style as the rest of the bolts.

 

Next task is figuring out dash ressembly & properly reinstalling all the tupperware screws.

 

Happy New Year to all!

SC

[Stephen_Chase]

Forgot to add that I used the old seal to help seat the new one. It worked fine, in lieu of a 1 1/4" or 30mm socket.

SC

[Ken H.]

For the front Öhlins shock you might want to have your tap and die set on hand. I've had to "chase the threads" on three different Öhlins front shocks to get the BMW factory nut to thread back onto the new threaded post. They must have to cut the little facets on the sides after the piece was threaded and I don't how it happens, but the threads are bunged up just enough to make it hard to keep from cross-threading the nut during re-assembly.

Jamie, have you ever figured out a magic trick to setting the right torque spec. on that nut? I haven't.