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How much oil in each fork?


No_Twilight

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I'm replacing the seal that I blew in the fork last weekend and my Haynes manual says fork fluid volume is .47 liter. I assume that is for two but that also happens to be about a pint so maybe that's how much to buy... How much do I put in a the tube before reinstalling the slider? I'll be looking on the internet so if I find the solution I'll post it. Right now I've got everything apart and I'm a little stuck...--Jerry

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Jerry,

I've got to replace the fork seal on my left side. I've looked at my Clymers manual and it appears pretty straight forward. Did you encounter any hidden issues in taking it apart? Approximately did it take on the tear down? I've got a 2000 R1100RT-P.

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Stephen_Chase

Hi Jerry, I have been holding back on replacing a left oil seal myself. It would be helpful to know your experience, especially the "right" wrench for the top nut. There was a string about that a short while back.

 

Can anyone advise if the fork needs to be removed completely or just the top crown removed?

Cheers!

Stephen

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Can anyone advise if the fork needs to be removed completely or just the top crown removed?

 

I can't see doing it witht he forks still on the bike. Driving the new seal & dust cover would have to occur in the vicinity of your headlight and all associated junk. It was hard enough doing it in my vice on the workbench. smirk.gif

 

especially the "right" wrench for the top nut
I said it in my other post, but I just used channel locks (adjustable jaw pliers). They broke loose pretty easily & I didn't marr the nut at all.
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Jerry,

I've got to replace the fork seal on my left side. I've looked at my Clymers manual and it appears pretty straight forward. Did you encounter any hidden issues in taking it apart? Approximately did it take on the tear down? I've got a 2000 R1100RT-P.

 

I've got the RS which seems to be a little easier. All that I had to do it take off the front wheel, front fender and then it was held on by 3 bolts. Thre is a clamp bolt at the top and two bolts on the lower fork bridge. A tip that isn't in the book: Put the axle in to align the forks (w/0 the wheel is fine) before tightening the lower fork bolts with their locktite. There is enough play in the bolt holes to allow misalignment and I had to loosen and realign to make the axle go in smoothly.

 

It took me a little over an hour to do one but I was taking my time. the hardest part for me was getting the seal pried out of the top of the lower tube. Heating it helped a lot. Be very careful not to scratch the surface while prying it out. I thought I was well off the surface and still made a small ding.

 

I read that a couple of people have had problems stripping screws. Get a set of high quality allen wrenchs (bondhus is my favorite brand) and they'll pay for themselves in one avoided stripped out head.

 

The fluid is indeed purple so those who report their fluid is dark are correct.

 

I don't really see any reason to replace a seal until it starts leaking. I hit a bump (very big bump on a gravel road at about 40-45 mph) and had catastrophic failure. I rode home 450 mile with oil everywhere but it was easy to clean up and when I took it apart there was still plenty in there for lube.

 

My wheel was a different story as I'll post next.

 

--Jerry

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Hi Jerry, I have been holding back on replacing a left oil seal myself. It would be helpful to know your experience, especially the "right" wrench for the top nut. There was a string about that a short while back.

 

Can anyone advise if the fork needs to be removed completely or just the top crown removed?

Cheers!

Stephen

 

Sorry but my RS doesn't have a top nut. But when you release the top and remove the two lower bolts, if it is like my RS, the entire fork (single side) comes off for easy maintenance. --Jerry

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