longjohn Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 I bought the stopper several months ago and today decided to install it, but it seems the old one had been snapped off. So I need to get the old one out. I am assuming I need to drill a hole in the old one and use an easy out to remove it, right? So what size drill would you use, and what size easy out would you use? Would this be a special drill bit, and if so where would I buy the bit and the easy out? Lowes, Home Depot, sears? Hf? Reading online, it seems the easy outs sometimes snap off themselves. How do I prepare the sight for this operation so that I don't snap off the easy out? Heat? Lube?
dirtrider Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 Evening John If you don't want to snap an easy out off don't use one. In my past experience if a person is asking about how to use or what size easy out to use they probably shouldn't be using one. Those things cause way more problems then they solve unless used with a great deal of caution & a full understanding on how easy they break off. Easy outs are VERY VERY HARD so once they break off in a part it becomes a big deal to get them out. The other problem with using an easy out (actually should be called a broken off) is unless used with due care & caution they screw into the broken stud & expand the part making it even more difficult to remove. Not having seen what your broken part looks like it is difficult to give solid advise. If it were mine I would remove the foot peg then probably just weld a washer on the broken feeler through the washer center hole, then tack weld a nut to the washer then just unscrew the whole deal. The welding heat usually loosens the stuck part under it & they usually spin out pretty easily. If you insist on using an easy out first try drilling the broken stud out with a left hand drill bit. In a lot of cases the L/H drill bit will catch & spin the broken part right out on the drill bit.
longjohn Posted August 7, 2012 Author Posted August 7, 2012 Hey DR, you're right, I have absolutely no experience with these things. I'll get a L/H drill this week and give it a go. I'll try a post a pic later on tonight. Thanks!!
Guest Kakugo Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 If by "stopper" you mean the two bits bolted underneath the peg to avoid scraping the cylinder heads... it's one Hell of a tough job.
tallman Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 I think he means the "peg feeler". Is and of it showing below the bottom of peg? I've had that and thought I needed to try all the above but we were able to work it out of the peg. Nothing to lose by trying. Good luck.
longjohn Posted August 7, 2012 Author Posted August 7, 2012 If by "stopper" you mean the two bits bolted underneath the peg to avoid scraping the cylinder heads... it's one Hell of a tough job. Yes, stopper is the BMW part name, and it doesn't look easy.
longjohn Posted August 7, 2012 Author Posted August 7, 2012 I think he means the "peg feeler". Is and of it showing below the bottom of peg? I've had that and thought I needed to try all the above but we were able to work it out of the peg. Nothing to lose by trying. Good luck. Peg feeler = stopper. None of it is showing. It's broken off flush or below. I'll give it a go as the footpeg is a ~$45 part.
Guest Kakugo Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 If by "stopper" you mean the two bits bolted underneath the peg to avoid scraping the cylinder heads... it's one Hell of a tough job. Yes, stopper is the BMW part name, and it doesn't look easy. I take it's broken with no part showing up on the outside... when it happened to me (snapped while changing a worn stopper for the fourth time) my first idea was to weld a small bolt but it looked like I would do even more a mess of things. The Alden Grabit kit I have was worse than useless... Best wishes to you and keep us posted.
lkchris Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 The "stopper" comes with preapplied loctite, making it even more difficult to remove. I just bought a new footpeg and transferred the rubber to it. Note that the part number for the "stopper" may get you a silver one or it may get you a black one. You could end up buying two to get a matching set.
longjohn Posted August 8, 2012 Author Posted August 8, 2012 what happens if you just leave it off? yep I could do that but then the bike will be lopsided It's a similar situation to having a burnt out parking bulb. People will mention it to you from time to time so that it sticks in the back of your mind. When a convenient time arrives I just get it done.
Guest Kakugo Posted August 8, 2012 Posted August 8, 2012 what happens if you just leave it off? This:
NCStephen Posted August 8, 2012 Posted August 8, 2012 and I think that is a sweet mark of a well ridden bike. As for other ways to get it off, If I remember correctly before when I had worn mine down below the surface and was attempting a similar repair. If you take the rubber out of the peg, you might just have enough of a nub of the other end of the feeler to get some grip on to try and back out from that side. You might also watch for a used peg. I watched and waited and I did buy one for I think for 25 bucks. I tried to get mine out and I used a left hand bit but still damaged the threads a bit. Even with using good amounts of lot tight it backed out and was lost. So now I just leave it out. I have a set of pegs from Pirates Lair and a new shifter for when time to replace is at hand. However on my bike there are not immediate consequences from scrapping a peg like a cylinder head that will bump lift the bike up. However that plastic protector seems to give a good sense that you are about as far as you might want to go. GRIN NCS
longjohn Posted August 10, 2012 Author Posted August 10, 2012 If you insist on using an easy out first try drilling the broken stud out with a left hand drill bit. In a lot of cases the L/H drill bit will catch & spin the broken part right out on the drill bit. Upon further inspection of the foot peg, the hole for the stopper goes all the way through, so no need to buy a left hand drill, I'll just go in from the other side, if I can get the foot peg off. Are there any posts or threads about removing the foot peg?
Guest Kakugo Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 If you insist on using an easy out first try drilling the broken stud out with a left hand drill bit. In a lot of cases the L/H drill bit will catch & spin the broken part right out on the drill bit. Upon further inspection of the foot peg, the hole for the stopper goes all the way through, so no need to buy a left hand drill, I'll just go in from the other side, if I can get the foot peg off. Are there any posts or threads about removing the foot peg? Nothing out of the ordinary. Remove the snap ring, gently tap the pivot from underneath, remove footpeg and spring. The tough part is removing the rubber. There's a plastic stopper on the inside that needs to be removed (easy enough) but the tough part is slipping the rubber off the footpeg. Plenty of patience and some soapy water will be enough.
Hall Vince Posted August 10, 2012 Posted August 10, 2012 I used an easy out to remove mine. They are loctited in, or at least mine were. So a little heat from a heat gun will be useful although I got mine out without heat. Without the "stopper" or feeler as I prefer to call it, the valve cover will touch down at the same time as the peg, also the lower plastic also touches. I fitted some replacements after I lost one on the B500 in Germany (fantastic road) if the valve covers touch down and you keep on leaning more there is no more to give, the tyres will be the next thing to be levered of the ground. The feelers are a good safety addition we should keep. FYI, the authority RTP's have longer feelers as the crash bars touch down first and earlier without them. \v/
longjohn Posted August 15, 2012 Author Posted August 15, 2012 Good news to report: Success!! Thanks to D.R. for the warnings about brittleness of the easy outs. Thanks to Kakugo for showing us what can happen by riding with missing stoppers and for explaining the removal process for the foot peg. Thanks to Hall Vince for the safety advice. I thought the hole drilling process would best be done with a drill press so I asked Jose if he had one and he said yes. I chose a time convenient for him and rode to his house. The first thing to do was remove the foot peg which was simple enough, but it might help to have a 3" punch to remove the pin easily. Next we used a 5/64 drill bit in the drill press to drill a hole in the screw. I think we went in about 3/8". Then we used an easy out with a vice grip to turn it. We didn't hammer it in. The screw will make a loud clicking noise about every 10-15° of turning (because of the locktite I assume) until it is almost all of the way out. That's it!! Thanks again guys, and especially you Jose. The dealers wanted from $45 on up for a screw extraction, and a new peg is about $50. Enjoy the Sam Adams Jose!
David13 Posted September 9, 2012 Posted September 9, 2012 Last week I didn't know my bike had stoppers. Til John sez oh, I replaced the stopper. What, sez I. Now I have discovered that I have only one black one. So I rode over to Long Beach today and got one. Only comes in silver, sez the girl. So then I realize John was right. It's supposed to be black. Now what can I do? I don't know what's worse. Non matching stoppers, or one missing. dc
DiggerJim Posted September 9, 2012 Posted September 9, 2012 Only comes in silver, sez the girl. So then I realize John was right. It's supposed to be black. Now what can I do? Paint?
TeSmSp Posted September 9, 2012 Posted September 9, 2012 John: Check this out. http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63249 The new one is light in color. Old one is black. Bike still runs fine.
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