Dobes Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 I am installing a set of barbax from Bob's BMW on my 2002 R1150RS. The instructions are not very clear to me. On the clutch side, it told me to disconnect the clutch cable and the idle speed cable so they could be re-routed. Based on the reservoir on the bar, I am guessing the clutch is hydraulic, so I started to doubt Bob. I didn't disconnect either, but I did have to loosen the clutch "hose" and turn it slightly up to get clearance above the old mounting point. I loosened it slightly with a wrench, turned it slightly and immediately re-tightened it. There were no leaks or apparent fluid loss, but do you think I will have to bleed that system? I just re-routed the idle speed cable to the inside, made sure nothing was being pinched and tightened everything down. I will be sure to check for free movement and chafing when I re-tie all cables. On the brake side, I did buy and install the longer stainless braided hose. I decided to disconnect the old hose without even opening the reservoir above, which Bob told me to drain. I was surprised when only a few drops of brake fluid leaked out. I have not touched the hand brake lever, and the reservoir sight glass shows it is full. There is a screw-in plug on the hose mount fitting at the reservoir. I am wondering if I can remove that plug, insert a tube, and fill the brake hose with brake fluid, thereby displacing the air in the new line by gravity, and avoiding the need to bleed the entire system. It looks to me like the screw-in plug is there for that purpose.
tallman Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 I don't really know but putting barbacks on an RS defeats the purpose of the bikes design, IMO. You can ride it and see. Good luck.
dirtrider Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 Morning Dobes The clutch should be OK & self bleed as you use it (just make sure the release point goes back to where it was before messing with it). Maybe move the lever numbered knob to the farthest stroke for a day or two as that will move more fluid. On the brake line question-- IF (big if here) you can get that new hose full of fluid from the top & NO AIR has gone into the system much past that lower junction block then the brake control side should self bleed as you work the front brake lever in use. The thing to keep in mind is that any air in the lower part of that hose or behind the lower junction block that works it's way back towards the ABS controller will be difficult to get out from the top. Maybe elevate the front of the bike a bit before stroking the front brake lever. Also keep in mind that brake fluid is a very good quick working paint remover so ANY brake fluid on the paint or dash plastic will make you a very unhappy person.
ahirsch Posted August 7, 2012 Posted August 7, 2012 Squeeze the levers once all the fasteners are snugged down. You will lnow if you have air in the system.
Dobes Posted August 8, 2012 Author Posted August 8, 2012 I don't really know but putting barbacks on an RS defeats the purpose of the bikes design, IMO. Did the same guy design the seat? There is a genius for you. If you ride this bike you know what I am talking about. Building a comfortable seat, lowering the pegs and moving the bars back and up slightly, gives the rider more flexibility in the riding position for longer time in the saddle. He can still lean onto the tank if he wants to. When building my seat, I built about a six inch high backrest into the front of the passenger seat. No more sliding into the tank and no more passenger sliding into me.
Dobes Posted August 10, 2012 Author Posted August 10, 2012 Follow-up on the barbax project. What I thought was a plug on the brake line fitting at the handlebar reservoir is a plug covering a bleed port. I don't have the necessary tool so I could not add fluid through it. I had to remove the banjo there and fill the new brake line with a syringe. Because the line is such a small diameter, you can't get fluid to flow into it. I inserted a thin wire about the same length as the line to work bubbles back out as I filled it with a syringe. Once it was filled, I topped off the banjo, the fitting and re-installed them. I topped off the reservoir and after pumping the brake lever many times, the pressure came up and it seems to work fine. On the clutch side, I had to pump the lever a long time to get the pressure to build up before the clutch worked. I hope the air is worked out of both systems for good. Thanks to all who commented on my project. It was a simple one compared to some of the work described here.
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