Brake Lines

[GrayNFast]

New Speigler lines should be here tomorrow. Not being the best mechanic I shall defer to the knowledge of the board.

 

Bike is 2000 R1100RT and I am wondering if this is a project I should tackle on my own. I have been keeping the brakes flushed myself, without breaking anything.

 

Are there any special tools I need?

 

Or, should I wait and catch a tech day for proper supervision.

 

Inputs appreacited.

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

Only caution is for torque. You do not want to strip a banjo.

[Peter Parts]

I like the Spiegler folks, but the MC banjo bolt they sent was about a quarter inch too long. I forget the fix I used (maybe cut and re-threaded or something) but it would be a serious matter to snug up and .... you get the picture.

 

Many of us run the two lines from the MC. Very sanitary.

 

Bleeding takes a few tries and an over-night. Unless you are more gifted than I.

 

Ben

[Jim Moore]

Grab yourself a mityvac. It's worth its weight in gold on this project.

[GrayNFast]

Would that bypass the ABS? I thought about that since it isn't working anyway.

[GrayNFast]

Yes, Jim I already have one. One of my favorite maintenance items.

[outpost22]

It's not a hard job. Just do one line at a time as one can get mixed up on the line ends and lengths since they're not numbered. Bleeding was straight forward. No issues.

Maybe I got lucky for once

 

 

[Selden]

It's not a hard job. Just do one line at a time as one can get mixed up on the line ends and lengths since they're not numbered.

Take photos before you change anything. They provide an invaluable reference when you're scratching your head trying to figure out how something was routed.

 

The only other caution I would add is to remove bodywork, and cover any painted surfaces that remain on the bike, as brake fluid is toxic to paint and plastics. DAMHIK. The handlebar reservoir is especially dangerous, as it can send a jet brake fluid a surprising distance.

[Trullion]

If you do bleed the brakes manually my advice would be to only use short strokes of the lever; otherwise there is a danger of having to replace the master cylinder seal because is has been damaged by contacting a rough part of the cylinder with it it doesn't come into contact in normal use (if you see what I mean). Also, using short strokes minimises the risk of a fountain of fluid squirting out of the reservoir!! My other tip would be to tie back the brake lever and leave it overnight to purge the remaining small air bubbles.

 

Whilst I don't doubt that the procedure is simpler using a Mytivac or similar, it is possible to do the job manually even with ABS II fitted. I have on separate occasions replaced the brake hoses (front and rear) and master cylinder (front) in this way without difficulty.

[GrayNFast]

Thanks, hadn't really thought of that. I have a habit of laying a quarter in bottom of the MC when I do manual bleed. Usually using MityVac.

 

BIL is a mechanic at CSX railroad and has offered to supervise weekend. Should go well, he maintains his bike and locomotives.

 

Thanks to all for the advice and will take pics prior to beginning work.

 

 

[Jmacaz]

I use a preasure bleeder I made from a garden sprayer. Hook the hose to the bleeder screw and push the fluid up into the master cylinder. That way you are pushing the air up, not down. Air likes to go up.

[ElevenFifty]

"Thanks, hadn't really thought of that. I have a habit of laying a quarter in bottom of the MC when I do manual bleed. Usually using MityVac."

 

Someone on this board suggested a box-knife razor blade ... it can be removed with a magnet.

[GrayNFast]

Even better idea. I will have to try that.