Newbie: choice between K1100LT or R1100RT

[JIM_C69]

Hi Guys, newbie here looking some advice.

 

I've only ever had 1 BMW a R1200CL (cruiser style) and I must say I enjoyed it very much. Anyhow since then I've been a Honda fan and progressed from the Goldwing GL1500 to the GL1800 and I found both these bikes pretty fab. Anyhow to cut a long story short we're in the middle of building a house and with one thing and another my budget got very tight and I had to sell my fairly new GL1800. Needless to say I'm now missing the bike a lot, so I've decided to free up a small amount of cash to get me on two wheels again.

 

I now have the chance to buy a 1994 K1100LT with only 10k miles that looks pretty much like new, one owner for last 15 years stored in a garage etc. Or a 1995 R1100RT with 45k miles and it looks to be in pretty good shape. Both bikes are around the same price (£1850 LT or £1700 RT sterling), so my question what would you go for, and what sould I check out on both bikes before I buy?

 

I've heard a lot about the RT's dry clutch giving problems, how do you check if the clutch is OK when you only have a short test ride (private sale for both bikes)

 

Many thanks for your help!!

 

Regards

 

 

Jim

 

[OlGeezer]

I owned a 1995 K1100LT before I got my 2002 R1150RT. I put nearly 50k miles on it (bought it with 49.5k miles). It was a nice bike, but I went through steering head bearings. Three sets in 50k miles! It was very smooth and reliable, although I did start having electrical problems near the end, but I also had electrical problems on the RT. The LT is easier to maintain. The valves will probably need adjustment only once (at 16k miles) and then maybe once again if you put 100k miles on it. The throttle bodies don't get out of adjustment because they are linked together with a metal bar. If you don't adjust your valves, you don't need to sync your throttle bodies. The only difficulty I had maintaining the bike is changing the air filter which is buried in the bowels of the beast.

 

The RT requires more maintenance. I've adjusted the valves and sync'd TBs AT LEAST every 12k miles, sometimes every 6k miles. However, adjustgment is easy even for this ham-fisted non-mechanic.

 

To me the difference is the handling and the personality. The RT handles better and the LT has no personality. If given a choice, I would take the RT without hesitation, but I'm a Boxer fan. YMMV.

[bmw_rider]

I think you need to ask yourself are you a 'tourer' or a 'sport-tourer' or a 'sport. If the answer is either of the latter two then the RT would likely be the better choice. NOT saying it can't or shouldnt' be used for 'touring' but the LT might lend itself to that more easily. Riding single or two up? - single -RT, two up - LT. Just my humble opinion, you'll no doubt get others that differ.

[RPG]

The RT will have more soul due to the Boxer engine. The LT will obviously get the job done as well. You have to decide which you prefer, the quirks/features of the Boxer or the seamless running of a K.

 

The RT would lack in riding comfort for your passenger as the LT is more Gold Wing like but will be more than comfortable riding single up. I've done back to back 800+ mile days on my RT going to Utah a few years ago. (very impressive IMHO)

 

Where the RT does excel is the handling/fun department as the Boxer comes alive above 4 grand and loves to be revved.

 

Obviously, I like Boxer's so my opinion is a bit slanted.

 

RPG

[CVA-42]

I agree with all that's been said so far. I had a 1994 K1100LT and liked it well enough for touring until I rode an 1150RT. Now I've got a 1200RT. IMO, the boxers handle much better than the KLT and put the "sport" in "sport touring". The KLT ran like a freight train but seemed somewhat cumbersome in comparison. Also very automotive and seemed to develop its power in a kind of linear fashion. All that said, one of the biggest issues I had with the KLT was its engine heat. Nice in the winter but a beast in the summer, especially here in the South. Shortly after I got it, I made contact with Dave Cwi who writes occasionally for the MOA Owners News and used to (maybe still does) ride an older K bike. I wanted some tips from him including tire advice. In his response, Dave said something like "Of course, you realize that the KLT is darn near unrideable in summer". I don't know if I'd go that far but I know I'll never own another.

[JIM_C69]

Hi Guys, many thanks for your replies. Your advise is greatly appreciated!

 

I must say, I'm swayed to the RT1100 but I heard about so many problems with the clutch that can be expensive to sort out.

 

Any thoughts as to how I could quickly check out the clutch.... were do you look for the dreaded oil leak?

 

Cheers

 

 

Jim

[RavennaAl]

I've also owned the two, a '95 KLT and a '99 RT The LT was smoother, had a little more power and got better MPG, but I didn't like the way the seat and handlebars were rubber mounted. It just never felt really secure. The RT got buzzy at certain speeds, seemed heavier but handled better. I had the LT for 2 years, the RT for 11 until arthritis made it too painful to ride any more. Take them both for a spin and buy the one that puts a smile on your face.

 

As for the clutch, I had over 90K on the RT when I sold mine with no clutch issues. As for maintenance, I checked the valves about every 15K, but they never needed any adjustments on either bike. Plugs and oil changes are a snap on both. The only failure for me was the ABS unit quit working on the RT. I didn't have $1,500 to fix it. But, the brakes worked fine otherwise.

[outpost22]

Hi Guys, many thanks for your replies. Your advise is greatly appreciated!

 

I must say, I'm swayed to the RT1100 but I heard about so many problems with the clutch that can be expensive to sort out.

 

Any thoughts as to how I could quickly check out the clutch.... were do you look for the dreaded oil leak?

 

Cheers

 

 

Jim

 

Yeah, the clutch would be expensive to have a dealer repair it. But, that clutch should go 100K mikes if not abused. Mine has 61K on it and is just fine (knock wood).

Not sure what you mean about an "oil leak". The 1150's have hydraulic clutches and can leak hydraulic oil on the clutch if the seal fails. The 1100's have a cable operated clutch, so no worries about oil contamination from the non-hydraulic clutch actuation system.

[JIM_C69]

 

Not sure what you mean about an "oil leak". The 1150's have hydraulic clutches and can leak hydraulic oil on the clutch if the seal fails. The 1100's have a cable operated clutch, so no worries about oil contamination from the non-hydraulic clutch actuation system.

 

 

 

AS far as I'm aware the R1100RT (as with most R series) is prone to an oil leak in the clutch area, apparently gear box oil can leak back into the clutch through the failing input shaft seal. As I said I'm not familiar with BMW bikes but I've read quite a bit about them and the clutch failure does seem to be a recurrent thread over quite a few websites. The only reason why I'm a little worried about this is it seems the slipping of the clutch is not evident until the bike is up to full running temperature and as I'm buying on a private sale I don't think I'll be able to get a long enough test ride to fully check this out. This is why I was hoping you guys would be able to give me a few pointers as to what I could check for during my inspection.

 

Thanks!