R1150RT Fuel Tank Hose Repair and Pump/Filter Service

[dirtrider]

-----

Had there been a switch in my return line that signaled 5 PSI or less (or thereabouts) I would have had 10-15 minutes to get to safety. Now that I know the warning signs, I might be able to tell what was happening sooner. Had I made your test, I would have passed the day before and still had the same problem.

 

Morning Roger

 

I'm not sure your return side even sees 5psi. That return is open to tank volume on the inside so no (or not much anyhow) restriction in the return to force pressure build.

 

Maybe a quick & dirty is to run a small ammeter on your pump power supply side. Bet that current drops off when the pump pressure falls off.

 

[roger 04 rt]

Afternoon DR, You're right, there's no pressure on the return side. I believe you're right about the current too. I'll have to think about that.

 

Most of the fuel is out of the tank, all but maybe a quart. So I'm ready for surgery. Before I start, does anyone have a photo of the fuel plate properly connected on an R1150RT tank? All the books say to make an alignment mark, fine. But looking at it the high pressure line exits slightly toward the front of the bike and it seems that the hose is a bit short and there's some pressure on the bend of the hose as it turns and heads backwards. It has left me wondering if the plate is aligned correctly. None of my manuals give a clear photo.

 

There is a flat spot on the circumference of the fuel pump plate but I haven't yet seen any orientation signs. I'll have to study it when apart. But if anyone has anything definitive about orientation, I would appreciate it.

[roger 04 rt]

I'll post a photo of my plate on the tank in a while.

[Galactic Greyhound]

Hi Roger,

 

Attachment below is an R1100RT Fuel Pump Plate which might help.

[Jovial Henry]

That is the way mine is. Flat towards the front. Formed hose bends back. Looks like it should have pointed more back.

[roger 04 rt]

Hi Roger,

 

Attachment below is an R1100RT Fuel Pump Plate which might help.

 

Greyhound (and JH),

 

Thank you, that is very helpful. Mine is correctly oriented. It's about the only thing the dealer who sold me the bike got right when they replaced the fuel filter before sale.

 

I've got it open and there's no doubt, hoses (plural) are leaking. I'll write it up and show some photos later.

 

Again, thanks for the quick response.

[oldironhead]

I just got finished replacing all the internal fuel lines on my RT11. Maybe this will help.

 

5/16 inch Gates submersible fuel hose is available on ebay for about $20 for a one foot length, which is plenty for the fuel pump/filter line sections. The only source I found for the two hoses that run up to the filler is from BMW.

 

That U shaped hose that the dealer wants $30 for. There's an easier and better fix for that if you have the patience.

 

Go to an auto parts store and buy a 8 or ten inch piece of 5/16 steel brake line. Saw the flared end off of one end and remove the fittings.

 

Copper tubing will also work, and is a lot easier to get bent correctly. I just liked the idea of the steel tubing better.

 

Put one end in a vise, and CAREFULLY bend it to the desired shape. It can be done, but you have to be patient and careful. If you kink it, just cut the kinked section out and try again. That tubing is not too expensive. I did it on the first try. YMMV.

 

Once you have the bend, cut it to about 1 1/2 inches long, and slightly flare both ends. This is important. Just enough flare to make a barb that will prevent the hoses from popping off. Cut two 1 1 1/2 inch pieces of hose to join the U to the other ends.

 

Get new screw clamps for everything from Beemerboneyard. Don't try to fool with the worm drive clamps.

 

Worked for me.

Edited July 7, 2012 by oldironhead

[Stan Walker]

There is a flat spot on the circumference of the fuel pump plate but I haven't yet seen any orientation signs. I'll have to study it when apart. But if anyone has anything definitive about orientation, I would appreciate it.

 

On both my RT's there is a raised bump in the tank plastic that lines up with the flat spot on the plate.

 

Stan

[roger 04 rt]

I just got finished replacing all the internal fuel lines on my RT11. Maybe this will help.

 

5/16 inch Gates submersible fuel hose is available on ebay for about $20 for a one foot length, which is plenty for the fuel pump/filter line sections. The only source I found for the two hoses that run up to the filler is from BMW.

 

That U shaped hose that the dealer wants $30 for. There's an easier and better fix for that if you have the patience.

 

Go to an auto parts store and buy a 8 or ten inch piece of 5/16 steel brake line. Saw the flared end off of one end and remove the fittings.

 

Copper tubing will also work, and is a lot easier to get bent correctly. I just liked the idea of the steel tubing better.

 

Put one end in a vise, and CAREFULLY bend it to the desired shape. It can be done, but you have to be patient and careful. If you kink it, just cut the kinked section out and try again. That tubing is not too expensive. I did it on the first try. YMMV.

 

Once you have the bend, cut it to about 1 1/2 inches long, and slightly flare both ends. This is important. Just enough flare to make a barb that will prevent the hoses from popping off. Cut two 1 1 1/2 inch pieces of hose to join the U to the other ends.

 

Get new screw clamps for everything from Beemerboneyard. Don't try to fool with the worm drive clamps.

 

Worked for me.

 

Looks like I'm going to be replacing most of the parts on Monday. Thanks for the good ideas.

[roger 04 rt]

There is a flat spot on the circumference of the fuel pump plate but I haven't yet seen any orientation signs. I'll have to study it when apart. But if anyone has anything definitive about orientation, I would appreciate it.

 

On both my RT's there is a raised bump in the tank plastic that lines up with the flat spot on the plate.

 

Stan

 

Thank you. I see the raised bump and flat spot. That is the alignment system.

[roger 04 rt]

I've got some photos of what led to the complete loss of power the other day. In a nutshell, all three high pressure hoses inside the tank need to be replaced. Two are not submersible and one is original and a moment away from rupturing. This highway shutdown was completely avoidable and began a year ago with the dealer's incompetent replacement of the fuel filter and was compounded when I ignored the red-flags.

 

Here is everything that flowed from that fuel filter replacement by the dealer's mechanic last year.

 

1) On my second day of ownership, the tank vent and filler neck drain began leaking at the right footpeg. The charcoal canister flooded. The dealer picked up the bike and replaced both those hoses inside the tank.

 

2) A couple months later, the fuel neck drain line started leaking by the right peg. It turned out that the filler neck was rotated 60 degrees counterclockwise, the two hoses were reversed, and the filler neck o-ring was swollen and not seated to seal the tank--all of which I repaired myself.

 

At this point I should have questioned the quality of the fuel filter replacement, right? I didn't though and ended up with a dead engine, coasting at 75 mph, in the left hand lane of I-93 south of Boston in heavy traffic.

-

This afternoon I pulled the tank. The first thing I noticed was that the high-pressure hose to the fuel pressure regulator/distributor is an inch or two short and under stress. I'll need to lengthen it.

 

After pulling the fuel pump plate I found that vent hoses were triple-oetiker-clamped at the plate and damaged. Just waiting to leak.

 

Below is a photo of the fuel pump, filter, screen and hoses. The high pressure hose from the pump to the plate is original, brittle, eroded, still intact but ready to fail. It should have been replaced at the filter change. The hoses to and from the fuel filter were replaced with the filter and made from hose not rated for submersion. Both of them are so porous that fuel from the filter was weeping out while I took the photo. This is the source of pressure loss. The rounded hose has numerous cracks.

 

Looking at the other side of the fuel pump your can see that somehow 1/3 of the black plastic cap that holds the strainer is broken off. You can see the fuel weeping through the U-shapes hose, and also see the stress on the external fuel hose..

 

Here's a shot of the o-ring. It is old and cracked around its entire perimeter, hard as a rock and flat on one side. It was not replaced at the filter change.Also there's the piece of the internal vent line that was cut by one of the three clamps.

 

For anyone with an eight year old (or older) R1150RT that isn't certain of the condition of the fuel pump, filter, gaskets and hoses, I hope my experience serves as an early warning. Until it fails, there's no way to know that your fuel system is on the verge of collapse. I'll be ordering all the parts on Monday.

 

[Jim Moore]

I hope you're right, but I would have expected something more dramatic to bring the bike to a stop. Maybe there is a split that opens up when the hose is under pressure? Btw, I assume you're going to replace the fuel filter?

[roger 04 rt]

I hope you're right, but I would have expected something more dramatic to bring the bike to a stop. Maybe there is a split that opens up when the hose is under pressure? Btw, I assume you're going to replace the fuel filter?

 

The hose that doesn't seems to have a spot that's been attacked by a Drexel tool but seems solid.

 

Under no pressure, the amount of fuel weeping through the "new" hoses is impressive. Look at how wet they are.nThere are some fine splits that must look like a shower head when energized. Probably new everything except the pump. The plastic vibration damper at the screen end of the pump is shot.

 

I think the lesson here is that hose not rated for submersion lasts about 10 months in gasohol.

Edited July 8, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[dirtrider]

Morning Roger

 

It looks like you have been working like a Beaver.

 

Great you are documenting this with pictures.

 

Unfortunately what you have found is characteristic of the type of work coming out of a lot or dealers lately. Some good ones but a lot of bad ones. I'm not sue if it is due to incompetent technicians or just lazy & greedy tecs.

 

One thing I "think" I noticed in the one of your pictures (difficult to tell on my small travel laptop screen here) is it looks like one of your power pass through terminals is pretty rusted up. If what I see is real then you might have another failure looming in your future.

 

Check out this thread of "failed ground pass through" as it will save me a lot of typing. Maybe yours is OK so this is just a heads up on something ELSE to look for.

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=780573&page=2

 

[scottnew]

I too had to replace hoses in my tank recently due to them falling apart (2000 r1100rt). In getting my project running It was obvious right off the rip that I had fuel issues.. Pulled the tank, went inside, and poof-- u-shaped hose amongst others were litteraly falling apart.. The u-shaped was the worst.. Went to my local dealer- who actually had everything in stock and started replacing stuff.. THe fuel filter was completely clogged from what I assume was hose parts.. They're proud of the formed u hose, about forty bucks.. Around a hundred bucks later I had a new filter and hoses installed.. I didn't opt for buying the hose clamp tool, instead I took my chances and I believe the advice of Dirtrider and crimped the clamps with a pair of side-cutters.. I was very pleased with how it all turned out.. So far no issues, much happier running bike, no leaks and all is well.. Of course, take into account that my bike is sitting most the time while I work on it/wait for other new parts to arrive.. TO my surprise though, the hoses that fit my tank per the dealer are NOT ethanol rated Was pretty shocked about that one.. THankfully, I have several stations within a few miles of me that sell non-ethanol fuel.. Best of luck with your repairs FYI_- I bought a dozen hose clamps in fear that trial and error with the side-cutters may take some practice- now I have many leftover since I didn't have the first issue with the rigged procedure

[oldironhead]

That "black plastic cap that holds the strainer" is called a vibration damper, and it is likely deteriorated too.

 

I have spent the better part of the summer, and way more on shipping than I should, on this job because I didn't figure on having to replace every little part in there.

 

Get the vibration damper, fuel strainer, fuel filter, all the hoses, all the clamps, and both o'rings, all at once, and save yourself some trouble.

 

Beemerboneyard, your local auto parts store, and ebay have a lot of this stuff cheaper than the dealers.

[Peter Parts]

Why do people always first blame the fuel delivery system (and not the electrical system including O2)? Is it "low hanging fruit" because you can eyeball and sometimes nose-sniff faults?

 

Ben

Edited July 8, 2012 by Peter Parts

[roger 04 rt]

That "black plastic cap that holds the strainer" is called a vibration damper, and it is likely deteriorated too.

 

I have spent the better part of the summer, and way more on shipping than I should, on this job because I didn't figure on having to replace every little part in there.

 

Get the vibration damper, fuel strainer, fuel filter, all the hoses, all the clamps, and both o'rings, all at once, and save yourself some trouble.

 

Beemerboneyard, your local auto parts store, and ebay have a lot of this stuff cheaper than the dealers.

 

I think this is an excellent suggestion. I have two types of parts there: 9 years old, and incorrect. This is the time to get everything right. I'm even giving some thought to the fuel pump.

[Boffin]

Why do people always first blame the fuel delivery system (and not the electrical system including O2)? Is it "low hanging fruit" because you can eyeball and sometimes nose-sniff faults?

 

Ben

 

Common faults happen commonly.

 

On these bikes, the fuel system has a certain history of problems, the electrical system less so - except for specific known issues with known symptoms that differ from those of the OP. It is worth noting, that the OPs problem was the fuel delivery system.

 

Andy

[ltljohn]

Beemer Boneyard has a replacement kit for the fuel pump

LINKY

[roger 04 rt]

Beemer Boneyard has a replacement kit for the fuel pump

LINKY

 

This kit and the OEM Equivalent look very good. Do you or do others have experience with it?

 

I guess I'd still need to get the submersible and U hoses from BMW.

 

THANK YOU for pointing this out.

Edited July 8, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[Alfred02]

When I still had my 1150RT, I ordered a ton of parts from Beemer Boneyard and all were quality items.

I have met the new owner of my previous bike and he is humping tons of mileage on the bike with zero issues.

Anything you might order from the above supplier you can install with confidence.

[azccj]

I learned a long time ago that most dealers break two things for every one thing they are paid to fix and there is nothing I hate more than actually paying someone $100+ and hour to mangle my prized possessions. I'm sure there are some great dealers out there but that has not been my experience, especially after the last BMW dealer worked on my K1200LT and it then burned to the ground on its first ride one week later. While I don't particularly like working on my bikes and would prefer them being just gas and go, they do break down from time to time and they all need maintenance. For a long time now I've worked on all my own bikes even when they are still in warranty. I personally know the mechanic who is a good guy and his labor rate is fantastic at just $0.00 an hour. For me it's just a whole lot less hassle and I know for sure how the job was done, usually right the first time. But if I screw up, I have no one else to blame but myself and I learn from my mistakes which I rarely repeat. Thanks to this internet thing and fine forums such as this one, with very knowledgeable and helpful people, there seems to never be a reason to ever go to the dealer but to buy needed expensive replacement parts.

 

Thank you OP for posting your experience and the pictures.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Roger

 

I haven't bought or used the BMW OEM hoses in a long time now. To tell you the truth with BMW starting to cut corners to make more profit on parts I sure would be surprised if the CURRENT BMW OEM hoses are anywhere near as good as most automobile replacements available. Most current automotive submersible hose is pretty decent & fairly alcohol resistant (it sure wouldn't surprise me if the BMW OEM isn't alcohol rated).

 

I guess what I'm getting at is maybe take your fuel pump assembly to a local REAL (not yuppified) auto parts store & see if they can find some pre-formed automotive OEM submersible hoses that have the correct bends then cut what you need out of those to repair your pump assembly.

 

[Jovial Henry]

And I thought I was the only one who was dissatisfied with dealers. Bought the 02 for my up and coming 65th birthday. Wanted a new bike and wanted to quit doing service etc. Took it back for first service and they screwed it up. Took it in for surging problem about a month later and they made it worse. Took it in for 6000 mile service and the next morning there was puddle of oil under bike and still over full. Filter was loose so I tightened it up drained out about a quart of oil and never went back. I have always like riding it but actually prefer my KLR. BMW is 10 years old and only has 50k on it. KLR is better suited for where and how I ride. No long rides any more. I prefer a 2-300 mile day ride. I am fortunate that I have access to 4 nice passes between Sacramento and Yosemite over the Sierras

[philbytx]

Boy, do I post this a lot LOL!

 

The two spec's for FI hose :

 

SAE 30R10 is for SUBMERSIBLE hose.

SAE 30R9 is for EXTERNAL use ONLY.

 

When buying in bulk, they are usually marked designating the different specs. Roger, sadly, yours isn't the first "professional" FI hose installation screw-up of which I am aware!

 

HERE is a handy dandy explanation of the 30R10 and HERE is an article on non-submersible fuel hose.

 

 

 

[roger 04 rt]

DR, JH, Alfred02, azccj,

Thanks for the continued support and suggestions. As you'll see below, this project continues to have a life of its own. Everything is getting replaced.

 

Boy, do I post this a lot LOL!

 

The two spec's for FI hose :

 

SAE 30R10 is for SUBMERSIBLE hose.

SAE 30R9 is for EXTERNAL use ONLY.

 

When buying in bulk, they are usually marked designating the different specs. Roger, sadly, yours isn't the first "professional" FI hose installation screw-up of which I am aware!

 

HERE is a handy dandy explanation of the 30R10 and HERE is an article on non-submersible fuel hose.

 

 

Philbytx,

 

I just looked up 30R7 hose after reading those articles. It is a non-submersible, low pressure fuel hose. So guess where I found it?

 

Earlier I had mentioned leaking internal vent and drain lines inside the tank just after I bought the bike. The seller replaced both internal lines with new hose and triple/double oetiker clamps on each end. The new submersed hose is marked SAE 30R7, clear as day. This explains why it ripped so easily when I removed the fuel pump plate.

 

This makes the dealer/seller replacement of the fuel filter a 100% incorrect job. It's hard to be so perfect.

 

The fuel supply system is too unobservable to tolerate this many errors. Everything is going to be replaced.

Edited July 9, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[David R]

I bought the fuel pump kit from beemer bone yard when I bought the

bike 3 years ago. Still have it and hopefully never need it.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the information. Crimping the OE clamps with side cutters is OK, so is using real fuel injection clamps. The worm screw type are not so good.

 

David

[roger 04 rt]

Morning Roger

 

It looks like you have been working like a Beaver.

 

Great you are documenting this with pictures.

 

Unfortunately what you have found is characteristic of the type of work coming out of a lot or dealers lately. Some good ones but a lot of bad ones. I'm not sue if it is due to incompetent technicians or just lazy & greedy tecs.

 

One thing I "think" I noticed in the one of your pictures (difficult to tell on my small travel laptop screen here) is it looks like one of your power pass through terminals is pretty rusted up. If what I see is real then you might have another failure looming in your future.

 

Check out this thread of "failed ground pass through" as it will save me a lot of typing. Maybe yours is OK so this is just a heads up on something ELSE to look for.

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=780573&page=2

 

Hi DR, Thanks for mentioning to inspect the electrical. I went over it carfully and it is in very good condition.

 

This morning, I will be placing orders for all internal and external hoses, O-rings, filter, pump and misc. parts. I plan to order Oetiker clamps and a tool since they are a sleeker connection but have proper FI fuel type screw downs on hand as well.

 

I should be back in the saddle by Friday, fingers crossed.

Edited July 9, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[Chuck U Farley]

I learned a long time ago that most dealers break two things for every one thing they are paid to fix and there is nothing I hate more than actually paying someone $100+ and hour to mangle my prized possessions. I'm sure there are some great dealers out there but that has not been my experience, especially after the last BMW dealer worked on my K1200LT and it then burned to the ground on its first ride one week later. While I don't particularly like working on my bikes and would prefer them being just gas and go, they do break down from time to time and they all need maintenance. For a long time now I've worked on all my own bikes even when they are still in warranty. I personally know the mechanic who is a good guy and his labor rate is fantastic at just $0.00 an hour. For me it's just a whole lot less hassle and I know for sure how the job was done, usually right the first time. But if I screw up, I have no one else to blame but myself and I learn from my mistakes which I rarely repeat. Thanks to this internet thing and fine forums such as this one, with very knowledgeable and helpful people, there seems to never be a reason to ever go to the dealer but to buy needed expensive replacement parts.

 

Thank you OP for posting your experience and the pictures.

 

I flat refuse to take my bikes to someone else to "fix". If I don't have the tools or parts I'll buy them or when possible borrow from like minded beemer buddies. with ever growing lack of craftsmanship these days I'm not going to risk it on two wheels.

 

The "tech" that cobb'd your fuel system should be taken out back and flogged!

 

End of Rant

[roger 04 rt]

I've removed the short connecting and U shaped hoses. The marking on the hose is:

 

>NBR<07/02 and T 83123058

 

Can anyone help me to identify this fuel line? I think NBR a Nitrile Rubber Fuel hose.

 

The condition of the hoses is: hard as a rock, brittle and riddled with cracks, especially the U-shaped hose. The fuel was escaping through many of the cracks.

 

I'm sure they have been leaking fuel for a while and as the pressure dropped the Motronic was doing its job to keep adjusting the injector pulse width to stay operating. Then a major crack must have developed and the pressure dropped very low.

 

 

Edited July 9, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[roger 04 rt]

Fuel Injectors, which may have rubber hose debris have been sent to Marren Fuel Injection in CT. I've been planning to do it for a while, so this was a good time when everything is apart.

 

When I have the reports, I will add them here.

[philbytx]

Roger,

 

FYI - That indicates it is Nitrile Butadiene Rubber High Pressure hose (300psi) .

 

As you are now aware, this is not a "lifetime" hose !

Also, many thanks for all your input on your situation. Hopefully, this should stimulate other folk on here to check their internal and external FI hoses

 

 

 

Edited July 10, 2012 by philbytx

[roger 04 rt]

Roger,

 

FYI - That indicates it is Nitrile Butadiene Rubber High Pressure hose (300psi) .

 

As you are now aware, this is not a "lifetime" hose !

Also, many thanks for all your input on your situation. Hopefully, this should stimulate other folk on here to check their internal and external FI hoses

 

 

 

philbytx,

Many thanks for the technical input on fuel hose. I would not have looked as carefully without your input. I'm really amazed that my tank was 100% non-submersible hose. It really makes you stop and think.

 

I believe that I have a piece of that hose also running to the pressure regulator. I'm going to go check.

RB

[Whip]

I've removed the short connecting and U shaped hoses. The marking on the hose is:

 

>NBR<07/02 and T 83123058

 

Can anyone help me to identify this fuel line? I think NBR a Nitrile Rubber Fuel hose.

 

The condition of the hoses is: hard as a rock, brittle and riddled with cracks, especially the U-shaped hose. The fuel was escaping through many of the cracks.

 

I'm sure they have been leaking fuel for a while and as the pressure dropped the Motronic was doing its job to keep adjusting the injector pulse width to stay operating. Then a major crack must have developed and the pressure dropped very low.

 

 

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=740853&page=1

 

 

I now carry a spare U Shape hose if you have trouble locating one I would be happy to send it.

 

Larry

[roger 04 rt]

 

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=740853&page=1

 

 

I now carry a spare U Shape hose if you have trouble locating one I would be happy to send it.

 

Larry

 

Hi Larry, Thank you, that's a generous offer. My parts place was closed today so I should know by tomorrow. Roger

[philbytx]

Roger,

 

FYI - The "unmarked" shaped NBR hose used by BMW (in both car and bike) is 30R10 spec and thusly submersible.

[roger 04 rt]

Roger,

 

FYI - The "unmarked" shaped NBR hose used by BMW (in both car and bike) is 30R10 spec and thusly submersible.

 

This hose has a green stripe along its length. It is hard to believe, given its condition, that any of the NBR hose in my tank is submersible. It is really in tough shape. The piece from the pump looks like it had a run-in with a grinder, and the other two prices which look newer have many fractures along their length and are leaking fuel.

 

I'm dwelling on this because if this is BMW hose, for this purpose, it should be replaced every 5 years. What do you think? I could mail you a piece of the hose if you would be able to tell.

[philbytx]

Roger,

HERE is a very informative article on NBR use in the auto (and thusly motorcycle!) applications.

 

The second paragraph outlines issues with "oxygenated" fuels methanol/ethanol etc. Note that at 10 percent ethanol levels, the NBR composition structure can become a little "unstable", especially when it comes to heat ageing resistance.

 

 

Perhaps the wise course of action is to just replace a hose that shows any signs of wear, cracking or stiffness. Or simply just R&R them all. However, when that is, you would only know when you remove the fuel tank to check your fuel filter!

 

 

 

 

[Clive Liddell]

R&R'ing the filter doesn't do the U shaped hose any favours as folk wrestle the filter loose.

 

I think it's a nod towards those of us who have externalised the filter - of course, if the filter removal was done early enough in the bike's life while the hose would still be supple.

 

 

[roger 04 rt]

Roger,

HERE is a very informative article on NBR use in the auto (and thusly motorcycle!) applications.

 

The second paragraph outlines issues with "oxygenated" fuels methanol/ethanol etc. Note that at 10 percent ethanol levels, the NBR composition structure can become a little "unstable", especially when it comes to heat ageing resistance.

 

 

Perhaps the wise course of action is to just replace a hose that shows any signs of wear, cracking or stiffness. Or simply just R&R them all. However, when that is, you would only know when you remove the fuel tank to check your fuel filter!

 

 

 

 

Very good article. The hose nearer the fuel pump was much more worn but he hoses on the filter were cracked.

 

The article mentions solvents. I wonder what the effect of Techron Concentrate is on these hoses, I mean the correct hoses.

 

R&R'ing the filter doesn't do the U shaped hose any favours as folk wrestle the filter loose.

 

I think it's a nod towards those of us who have externalised the filter - of course, if the filter removal was done early enough in the bike's life while the hose would still be supple.

 

 

I can understand the logic of moving the fuel filter outside the tank. When I was installing the LC-1 Wideband O2 I found that there isn't a lot of room to manuever under the RT fairings.

 

The more I look at these hoses and the situation, the more I feel that there should be a time limit on the hoses in areas where the fuel includes 10% Ethanol.

Edited July 10, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[roger 04 rt]

Since I have to replace one of the external hoses that is too short, I'm looking at installing a pressure switch in the high pressure line. Here is one that has the right function and a link to it Pressure Switch :

 

Then something like this (although I need to find 5/16" I think) in series with the high pressure fuel line Barb to NPT T Adapter:

 

The pressure switch would be wired to ground and also wired to the Low Fuel light which would have a new meaning: either the fuel is low or the fuel pressure is low.

 

Since I don't have any experience with this hardware if anyone could suggest better or better suppliers, I would appreciate it.

 

RB

Edited July 10, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[philbytx]

Roger,

FYI - I am a long term Techron user. Used it in my BMW 5er cage and also both bikes since I bought them. Note that I also use only "Top Tier" gasolines and I try to use Chevron when possible but we have more Shell stations around here.

In the following Motor Gasolines Technical Review on Chevron's website, in section 4 on "Oxygenated" gasolines, it warns as follows :

quote

Gasoline oxygenated with methanol

corrodes fuel system metals and

accelerates deterioration of

elastomers.

unquote

The common additive "Heet" is about 96 percent Methanol and there are a few stations around where you can buy M85 gasoline, which is 85 percent methanol! So, anyone using Heet on a regular basis or experimenting with using M85 in their gas tanks would definitely compromise, at the least, the fuel lines!!1

 

[roger 04 rt]

Phil, that's a great read. Even some comments on fuel and surging. Thanks again.

 

The strainer is really stuck on my pump. What is the best way to get the strainer off the pump?

[dirtrider]

Morning Roger

 

I don't know the best way but I just pry them off with a thin bladed screwdriver.

 

 

[roger 04 rt]

Morning Roger

 

I don't know the best way but I just pry them off with a thin bladed screwdriver.

 

 

Thanks DR,

Two other questions, how tightly do the Oetiker clamps get squeezed shut?

 

Is the strainer an interference fit or has it been glued to the pump? It doesn't seem to want to come off.

RB

[dirtrider]

Morning Roger

 

Two other questions, how tightly do the Oetiker clamps get squeezed shut?-----

 

>>>>>Good question, basic answer is- tight enough that they won't come off under pressure/vibration & not so tight that you damage the hose plies. Kind of a touchy/feely thing based on experience. I really don't know of a technical way to tell. If you can twist the hose on the fitting it is too loose & if you see the hose bulging around the clamp it is to tight.

 

Is the strainer an interference fit or has it been glued to the pump? It doesn't seem to want to come off. -----

 

>>>>>It s-h-o-u-l-d be a press fit but with all the other things you have found wrong with yours who knows that maybe the last yahoo that worked on it glued it on.

 

[philbytx]

Roger,

That is weird, mine just levered and wiggled off. Given all your issues, it really does appear more and more likely that someone was putting SOMETHING they shouldn't have in the tank!

[roger 04 rt]

Morning Roger

 

Two other questions, how tightly do the Oetiker clamps get squeezed shut?-----

 

>>>>>Good question, basic answer is- tight enough that they won't come off under pressure/vibration & not so tight that you damage the hose plies. Kind of a touchy/feely thing based on experience. I really don't know of a technical way to tell. If you can twist the hose on the fitting it is too loose & if you see the hose bulging around the clamp it is to tight.

 

Is the strainer an interference fit or has it been glued to the pump? It doesn't seem to want to come off. -----

 

>>>>>It s-h-o-u-l-d be a press fit but with all the other things you have found wrong with yours who knows that maybe the last yahoo that worked on it glued it on.

 

Thanks. I wanted to know before I put too much elbow grease into it. I've got some screw clamps in case I can't master the oetiker but from your description I think I'm good to go.

 

Roger,

That is weird, mine just levered and wiggled off. Given all your issues, it really does appear more and more likely that someone was putting SOMETHING they shouldn't have in the tank!

 

At this point I'm not taking anything for granted. My best guess now is that all the stock hoses were replaced with high pressure hydraulic line--but who knows.

 

What's good or bad in the fuel tank waits invisibly.

Edited July 11, 2012 by roger 04 rt

[roger 04 rt]

HELP.

 

I'm mostly through rebuilding and have hit a problem.

 

Before closing the tank, I connected the fuel plate to the electrical connector to make sure the pump would work. It ran for two seconds the first time. Then the second time it ran slowly and blew the fuse. I think the new pump is defective. Did I do something wrong by running it for a couple seconds without fuel?

 

RB

Edited July 12, 2012 by roger 04 rt