Rear Drive Pivot Pin Removal ??

[snod]

Geting ready to start on my rear drive removal. I have seen posted that I need a 30mm Socket, and a 12mm or a 13mm allen head. Which is it on an 1100, 12mm or 13mm? Seems like neither are easy to come by.

[BMWRich58]

Should be 12mm.

Definately don't forget the HEAT before removing the pivot pins. Factory used RED locking agent,and those threads are Aluminum .

Upon reassembly,many mechanics opinions will differ on whether or not,to use a thread locking agent.

My thoughts and for peace of mind,lock the threads.

 

On a scale of 1-10, 10 being a difficult job to do yourself,replacing the para lever bearings and races is probably a 4. Pretty much easy/average to do.

But,without the much needed heat to loosen up the factory installed locking agent,things can get ugly, cost for a new swing arm is $$$$$. (Heat guns work best,propane torches can easily scorch the painted swingarm)

All toll,maybe $50.00 for bearings and hexsocket (SK or some other cheap brand tool).

[bmweerman]

Yep...just did this job and went out to the garage and checked...definately a 12 mm hex nut wrench and 30mm socket.

 

I found a set of 3 hex drivers...12, 14, and 17 mm and Auto Zone for about 15 bucks...Also found there a 30 mm socket for about 12 bucks.

 

While it is true you can discolor the surrounding area with a torch...see below.

 

 

I learned on the next one that if you just heat the nut down the center you can melt the locktite without affecting the other areas.

 

At the suggestion of Chopper Dan I used a propane torch with MAPP gas. just a few short bursts down the center should do the trick.

 

IMHO don't even mess with the heat gun...I mucked around for 2 days with one of those suckers with no results.

 

Trip to Home Depot for a Torch and 5 minutes later I had that sucker off with all threads intact.

 

More pix here if it helps

[snod]

Thanks for the correct info! I am out hunting a 12mm allen head. Auto Zone bound.

[bmweerman]

Hey Mike you probably know this already...but just in case..

 

Make sure you do one of these to your bike before you start pushing, pulling and shoving down there

 

[Jim VonBaden]

Yep...just did this job and went out to the garage and checked...definately a 12 mm hex nut wrench and 30mm socket.

 

I found a set of 3 hex drivers...12, 14, and 17 mm and Auto Zone for about 15 bucks...Also found there a 30 mm socket for about 12 bucks.

 

While it is true you can discolor the surrounding area with a torch...see below.

 

 

I learned on the next one that if you just heat the nut down the center you can melt the locktite without affecting the other areas.

 

At the suggestion of Chopper Dan I used a propane torch with MAPP gas. just a few short bursts down the center should do the trick.

 

IMHO don't even mess with the heat gun...I mucked around for 2 days with one of those suckers with no results.

 

Trip to Home Depot for a Torch and 5 minutes later I had that sucker off with all threads intact.

 

More pix here if it helps

 

I used a standard heat gun, $15 at Walmat, to removemine. Works great, doesn't damage thepaint, and no risk of fire.

 

I also used a T-60 Torx bit to remove it once since I couldn't find a 12MM allen.

 

Jim

[Matts_12GS]

30 seconds with a torch in the center of the bolt head and it comes right off, no paint discoloration etc... Easy!

[bmweerman]

and no risk of fire.

 

And that's fun how?