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ABS Removal


Jovial Henry

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Jovial Henry

I have an 02rt and am tired of abs problems. What is involved in removing it?? Thanks for any advice.

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Evening Henry

 

Obviously you need to remove the tupperware then remove the ABS controller.

 

Then-re-plumb the front brake line to go directly from the master cylinder to the front calipers (you can do this by buying & installing the non ABS line junction block).

 

Next- you need to re-plumb the rear brake master cylinder to go directly to the rear caliper. You can do this with a short metal brake line with the correct fittings on each end. (I made my own rear brake line up as I have the proper line flaring tools & fittings).

 

Next- you need to get the brake lights operational without the ABS controller. You can do this with a relay using the existing wires in the current ABS controller harness. The production brake light switches work reversed of what you need so the relay is needed to make those switches work the brake lights. (OR)- you can buy & install new non ABS brake light switches then wire those into the existing (disconnected) ABS harness. (OR)- buy aftermarket hydraulic brake switches that go under longer banjo bolts & use those to operate the brake lights.

 

Then just connect everything up & bleed the brakes.

 

I think you will find the brakes work & feel better than they ever have, you just won't have the power assist or ABS available.

 

Check the archives here under Oilheads as I believe Andy posted a how to on removing the ABS from the 1150 RT.

 

 

Added: forgot about removing ABS relay from the fusebox, if you don't you will still have the ABS failure light on.

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Jovial Henry

Thanks. Think I will just do it. I have ridden over 1,000,000 miles with out abs and only 50k with it. I should just sell the RT. It is a really nice bike but not worth much. It is heavy and faster than I need. I am 76 and actually enjoy my KLR and Ural Tourist more. Don't do any touring only short 2-300 mile day rides. Thanks again.

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Evening Henry

 

As long as you don't care about the ABS (personally I don't) it is not a bad job.

 

You might PM AndyS to see if he still has the write up. I sure hope so as it will save a LOT of typing to give you the finer details on the removal.

 

If not there are a few of us on this site that can talk you through the removal & light re-wiring.

 

 

 

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Jovial Henry

I can probably figure it out?? I used to build custom cars and bikes. Made a lot of convertibles out of Jags when you couldn't buy convertibles. All total probably built 50 cars and bikes. I will definitely holler if I run into problems. Have a couple projects to clean up first so will probably be a couple weeks??? Thanks.

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Yeah, I go along with removing ABS system for sure. You could probably just order the parts you need from BMW including micro-switches for the R1150R as it was available both with and without ABS. The relay method is surely mega-bucks cheaper, however.

 

Part necessary to connect front master cylinder directly: Distribution Piece BMW P/N 34327650965 Amount $53.49 (2009).

 

For rear brake connect to rear master cylinder directly: Stahlflex Brake Hose BMW P/N 34327677201 Amount $70.83 (2009)

 

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Don Beissel

It is easier to just remove the bulbs from the dash so that you don't see them flash...

 

Jus' Sayin'

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I removed the ABS from my 2002 1150RT a few weeks ago following Andy's very well written instructions. The only thing I did different was instead of cutting and splicing the wires into the large ABS wiring harness, I simply used solid strand wire jumpers on the face on the plug. My thinking is that I can easily re-install the ABS if I use the bike for a trade-in or sell it in the future. And yes, I like the feel of the brakes much better now. I also replaced the ten year old OEM brake lines with new stainless steel braid Spiegler brake hoses which come with the necessary distribution block for the front brake hoses. ( whether you use the ABS or not ) I think the SS hoses also improve the usability of the brakes compared with the old, weak hoses.

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Seems the earlier "non wizzy" systems are the ones with less "problems." I'll run mine on the R as long as they continue to function. Have HEl S/S lines nose/tail, and with the ABS, the machine has EXCELLENT brakes! (Almost too much at low speeds.)

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It is easier to just remove the bulbs from the dash so that you don't see them flash...

 

Jus' Sayin'

 

Morning Don

 

That doesn't work so good on the BMW 02 1150's using the I-ABS braking system.

 

On the 1150 I-ABS system (power brake system) once the ABS controller fails it leaves very degraded braking power as there isn't a direct hydraulic connection between the hand or foot master cylinders & the brake calipers. On the I-ABS systems it takes a very high hand or foot input to get even moderate braking power. Even then the lever travel is long (almost to the bar even for moderate stopping). Not something a rider wants to live with for very long.

 

 

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Don Beissel

Ah. For some reason I thought this was an 1100RT bike. I thought of just pulling my bulbs before I replaced the ABS modulator.

 

Don

 

 

It is easier to just remove the bulbs from the dash so that you don't see them flash...

 

Jus' Sayin'

 

Morning Don

 

That doesn't work so good on the BMW 02 1150's using the I-ABS braking system.

 

On the 1150 I-ABS system (power brake system) once the ABS controller fails it leaves very degraded braking power as there isn't a direct hydraulic connection between the hand or foot master cylinders & the brake calipers. On the I-ABS systems it takes a very high hand or foot input to get even moderate braking power. Even then the lever travel is long (almost to the bar even for moderate stopping). Not something a rider wants to live with for very long.

 

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I have an 02rt and am tired of abs problems. What is involved in removing it?? Thanks for any advice.

Jovial, PM me with your email and I will send you a pictoral walkthrough.

Andy

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