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Pivot bearing problem?


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Hi all,

When removing the final drive on my 01 RT the inner race on one bearing came out with the bolt. This did not happen on any of the other 3 and the inner races on those don't want to come out if I try to pull them out with my finger. So, do I just put the race back in place and reassemble or is this a bad bearing and needs to be replaced.

Thanks.

5996.thumb.jpg.863d68dcff036228b284a42e1c801056.jpg

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Danny caddyshack Noonan

My FD pivot did that on at least one side. I couldn't find a mechanical reason for it to do otherwise. No flared/swaged shoulder.

Made it very easy to clean and reassemble.

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I do see a groove where a snap ring might go--but it also seems like the pivot bolt would do a fine job holding it in place.

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Hi all,

When removing the final drive on my 01 RT the inner race on one bearing came out with the bolt.

 

I believe this is a very common occurance with the FD pivot bearings, but not the front paralever pivot bearings. Be sure to check the bearings for wear and roughness which is often the case (also mainly the FD bearings but not the paralever bearings which are a bit beefier)

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Hi all,

When removing the final drive on my 01 RT the inner race on one bearing came out with the bolt. This did not happen on any of the other 3 and the inner races on those don't want to come out if I try to pull them out with my finger. So, do I just put the race back in place and reassemble or is this a bad bearing and needs to be replaced.

Thanks.

 

I just discovered by your picture that this bearing is a needle bearing. I thought this ons was a standard bearing. i just cleaned and greased the conical one. Are they the same at the pivot of the swingarm ?

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Yes - the swingarm bearings and the pivot pin bearings are all needle bearings.

And yes - the inner race will fall out when you aren't looking (usually when you are trying to put the fd back on, and both your hands, feet, and lap are busy). Lube and reuse if no evidence of damage.

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Those 4 bearings only look like needle bearings, but if you measure them, they have a very shallow angle that makes them tapered roller bearings. The super-shallow taper makes it very easy to overload them adjusting the preload studs.

 

Personally I set them so there is a very very tiny amount of clearance detectable in each bearing pair, rather than using the BMW torque to XXXX spec. There is so much friction and dimensional shift with the nut being tightened in the preload stud lashup that the torque spec isn't that reliable. My opinion. YMMV!

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