request feedback on aftermarket shocks

[neil_wilcox]

I am at the point of deciding which brand of shocks to order to lower my R12RT the necessary one inch to provide my sense of security when riding two up. Ohlins would cost about $3000, Wilbers about 2500 or slightly less, and Works Performance about 2000 CAD, but I would have to dismantle my rear shock and supply the remote adjuster to them to be installed on the custom shock. My point: I am an average, short middle aged guy who tours and doesn't scrape the bodywork. If all these shocks would be at least as good or better quality than the original, then why wouldn't I just order the cheapest? I would really appreciate any feedback re: quality, service, lack of hassles, etc. before I reach for my plastic.

Thanks guys

Neil

[Haynes]

Neil,

Is there a reason to change the shocks before you get substantial use from them?

I changed to an Ohlins rear on my R1150RT when my stock shock died at around 42,000km. I mostly ride the RT 2-up so good shock performance is important to me. If I was only tourng solo at a sedate pace, I'd ride with the stock shocks and save the money.

 

When pricing shocks, it's not just the price of the units that's important, it's also the expected life between shock absorber services and the cost of rebuilds.

[USAF1]

Why not just get a stiffer spring for it! The factory spring on my shock was an 800 pounder......I swapped it out for a 950. Big difference!!

 

Pat

[RFW]

Niel,

 

Where are you getting these prices from???

 

I live in Vancouver (maybe not far from you!) and I bought a Works shock for my old K100RT exactly a year ago. It cost me less than $500 Canadian. I just phoned up Works and ordered the thing.

 

Once ordered, I had it shipped to Can-Amer freight in Blaine Washington. Shipping cost was about US$20. Can-Amer charges the princely sum of US$2.50 to receive and store the goods until you pick them up.

 

Other costs? GST and PST. No duty on car or bike parts.

 

Email me (see my personal info) if you want to know more about Can-Amer.

 

Bob.

[neil_wilcox]

Keith,

I'm after the lowering effect, not improved handling or weight capacity. I just hope to have some feedback on how well these shocks work, and which ones are worth the $$$.

Thanks, Neil

[russell_bynum]

I have the Works Performance shocks on my RT and I've been VERY happy with them. I didn't need to lower the bike, so I can't comment on the shock's ability to do that.

 

But...instead of having them build you a shock with remote preload adjustment, consider getting their rear shock with the ARS option. ARS lets you very quickly and easily switch to three different settings. For me, that's solo, 2-up, and 2-up with full baggage. The ARS adjustment doesn't require any tools and is a very quick, simple change. The shock does have a preload adjustment on it as well, but it's a collar that basically requires removing the shock to adjust.

 

For me, I had to remove, adjsut, and reinstall the rear shock 3 or 4 times to get the sag where I wanted. But I haven't touched it since then...more than 3 years ago. Once you get it dialed it, you just leave it alone and just switch between the 3 different ARS settings.

 

This setup isn't for everyone...if you like constantly tinkering with your suspension to get the "perfect" setup for every road/load, you will not like the ARS shock. For me, I just want to get it dialed in so it works pretty well in my most common riding modes and not have to mess around with it.

 

I have no connection with Works Performance...just a satisfied customer.

 

I've ridden Ohlins-equipped bikes and they are quite good. I haven't ridden a Wilbers-equipped bike, but people I trust have spoken very highly of them.

 

I really don't think you're going to be dissapointed with any of those three options, so it's just a matter of picking whatever unit you think has the features/cost that you want.

 

Edit: Another thought...I'm not sure if you can get a lowered shock with ARS from Works. If not, consider buying someone's used stock shock and pull the preload adjuster off of that instead of dismantling your shock.